3.4L Fuel (?) Issue

To test fuel pressure is kind a pain but do-able and I can save you some trouble I went through. I originally bought the Actron fuel pressure kit that came with a special banjo bolt with a fuel pressure schraeder valve on top for testing pressure. The kit and gauge are great, but the bolt is made of cheap aluminum and broke the second I applied the slightest torque to it. huge pain in the ass, had to dethread the rest of the bolt from the fuel rail inlet with a screwdriver. sucked!

Solution is to buy the Russell 640700 and a 1/8th NPT fuel pressure test port. thread the test port into the banjo bolt with some sealant and it works like a charm. Replace the banjo bolt on the rail and boom, you have high quality test port ready to use.

Actron CP7838 Professional Fuel Pressure Tester

https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP783...75027978&sr=8-1&keywords=actron+fuel+pressure

$18 RUSSELL/EDEL 640700 Fuel Pressure Take Off Banjo Belt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPJI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252532898913?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Cheap actron banjo bolt (sheared)


Russel bolt with test port

 

Helluva quality post right there... is this applicable to the 3.4L though?

 

I believe the banjo bolts are the same, so essentially it works the same on the 3.4 or the 2.7. The difference is that on the 3.4 I think you use one of the banjo bolts off of the front of the fuel rail where the fuel line jumps from one rail head to the other. If I remember correctly i got this idea off of someone who had a 3.4 and he had to put a 90 degree on the banjo bolt before the fuel adapter in order to make it accessible.

 

I made 2 of those for friends, with the 90*

 

Finally got a chance to put my new fuel pump in. It fixed my power issues! I can actually climb hills on the highway doing 65 in 5th gear. Before I struggled to do 65 in 4th on the same hill.

 

Hell yea, hope I can be so lucky. I did a projector retrofit last week but the headlight back plastic shattered just as I was getting the beam to the appropriate level on the passenger side... yeah - like 3 seconds away from patting myself on the back and putting the grille back on. As a result, I haven't driven it and have a half tank of gas sitting in there that I'd like to not wrestle with.

Might try to tackle this tomorrow - do a 75 mile trip to no where in the morning to burn some fuel and get to it. Gotta stay home with the pup anyway since she just got her babymaker yanked a few hours ago

 

That really sucks man. I've been wanting to do a retrofit but works starting to slow. I've got a lot of plans but I would say most are on hold until spring when work picks up again.

I had about a quarter tank in mine when I did it. It wasn't to bad doing it by myself. I got it done in a few hours just taking my time.

Good luck. Hopefully it will take care of your problem.

 

How heavy is the bed?

 

Dropping the tank is way easier than fooling with the bed.

To drop the tank only took 30 minutes. I did it with about a 1/4 tank in it without draining it. I also didn't remove the inner fender like they do in the video. You can get the bolt out for the filler neck by just folding the inner fende over a little.

https://youtu.be/h_VHxBmecj8

 

I don't know the exact weight but it's really not too too heavy. Two men could maneuver it off the frame. 3+ would be cake. I tried to wrangle it off the frame and slide it off the back on my own and failed. I tried shimmying it back on one side then the next but I was losing control of it. That's why I had to go to lifting it off the bed with ratchet straps from my garage ceiling. So yea in conclusion it's not so much the weight but the size, and shape.

I never tried dropping the tank. If I was just doing the pump I may have gone that way first. I had so much other work to do other than just the fuel pump (suspension, sanding and painting frame, muffler work) that it was easier to just get the bed out of the way for a bit.

 

Wow, I don't know about on a Tacoma, but replacing the fuel pump kinda really sucked today on my 4runner.

The tank vent hose was impossible to get off, so I had to cut. Even with the damn tank on the ground, I couldn't get that vent off - it was completely fused on to the hard lines. Replaced it though... word to the wise, drive below 1/4 of a tank and park on a flat surface. My driveway is sloped just enough that the doors close on their own (annoying AF) but I also had to craftily use a jack on this slope.

My tank was clean and it seemed to idle better - waiting for my headlights to cool down from re-doing projector retrofit so that I can install and give it a good drive. I won't know for sure though that everything is a-ok til a week at least - since that's how long just replacing the fuel filter helped the first time around.

I'm baffled though - this is the second time I've found Denso products in my vehicle with a number I can't find anything official on.

The fuel pump I removed was 'Denso 195130-2772'. The only google results are foreign sites listing this part number as the fuel pump for a ~2002 Toyota HiAce. The MAF I replaced the other week trying to fix my problems was also a Denso, and a part number that only foreign sites listed - for a whole slew of Toyotas, none of which being a 3.4L.

Where the F did these parts come from, you'd think I'd find at least one hit for these part numbers on a message board like this if it was ever used from the factory in vehicles distributed to North America. The original owner had it serviced at a dealership exclusively, so I don't think they would have.. and the last (second/third - brothers) owners did DIY some stuff, possibly the fuel pump, but didn't speak english well enough to say clearly. I doubt he drove to Mexico and got some mystery parts down there, but I guess it's possible.







and the mystery fuel pump...

 

No dice for me - same effect as changing the fuel filter had, temporary. Still wasn't as strong as it had been the very first time I changed the filter. Something about taking the fuel filter line off, getting hit in the face with gasoline, and reassembling is the ticket to temporary relief - the tank is clean, the filter is once again new, and the pump is new. Now to work my way forwards I guess.

Anyway, took it over the mountain (6k ft gain peaking at 11k feet) and it was capable of keeping pace with traffic at 65 on hills that I'm usually pedal to the floor and barely going 50 on. I even used cruise control going up some steep hills because I didn't have to intervene. This was short lived - I coasted down the other side after going through the tunnel at the top, about a 5 minute foot off gas descent. Resumed cruise through the short valley and as I started up another hill, smaller than the ones I had just used cruise on, it bogged down, wouldn't downshift, and cruise shut off. Rough idle returned, I was flooring it to get up hills and holding up Toyota Echos... ya.

About 150 miles in to the trip on the way home, I floored it to get up a hill that leveled out and gently descended at the top. Shortly after making it over the hump and beginning to coast, I smelled raw gas pretty strong coming through the vents with no other vehicles to blame out in the country. I know fuel evaporates fast but I checked my fittings underneath since I had just dropped the tank, and everything was fine. No sign under the hood but it certainly seems like it originated there with it blowing in my face.

So something upstream of the filter that drains backwards on my steep driveway when I change the fuel filter, or something that is temporarily purged/rebooted by the 10-20whatever cranks it takes to get started after draining the lines during a filter change. FPR? Injectors?

 

I would think injectors....maybe the rubber o-ring on the end/tip of an injector(s) is bad causing a "leak" which would also cause the rest of your issues. Look at the fuel rail with a flashlight while revving the engine, if it's leaking you will see it....and yes it would evaporate fast as hell

 

FPR would be the next thing I looked at too. Either way I think you are going to have to get a gauge at some point and actually see what the pressures are. I mean you can keep replacing parts if that's how you choose (Really only have a few more to go as far as fuel delivery goes) but if it were me, I'd want to see what the pressure is actually doing.

 

Just checked air box and FPR - no signs of fuel, never have been... q-tipped inside of FPR vacuum hose and no residue, no gas smell I thought I was hearing an electrical shorting noise when I was just looking under there but it was coming from the charcoal canister thing. Odd since the truck hasn't been running for like 16 hours but I don't know much about those things.

SOMDTACO, I'm with you on the pressure test.. if the plugs don't offer up any evidence then I'll probably just pay the $75 for diagnostics (that thing I should have done hundreds of research or tinkering hours ago, thousands of miles ago, and hundreds of dollars ago)

 

I ended up taking it to a Toyota specialist shop this morning. Guy said he thought my cat was going bad based on some voltage deal with the sensors. That caused him to look underneath the car and comment on how my cat was aftermarket, and seemed way smaller than normal. Didn't charge me for looking at it, talking to me for like 30 minutes, nor riding around together taking turns driving it

That lead me to think that the cat was clogged.

That lead me to spend a few minutes with the dremel to cut the stuck bolt holding my upstream o2 sensor on and create a pre-cat exhaust leak by loosely holding the sensor in by the one good bolt.

It felt better snappier but still not right.

Hours later I look through previous owners receipts. Had a CEL one day per a brake shop receipt in the comments box, got a cat two days later from an exhaust shop, failed emissions four times while replacing other things per Napa and OReilly receipts, changed the o2 sensor and the receipts ended... and he passed emissions

I could tell that the sensor he bought was installed downstream of the cat because it looked newer, is more responsible for emissions failing, and with the condition of the front sensor bolts. So I went out in the dark and popped the new sensor in pre-cat and reset the ECU. (TLDR)Drives better than it ever has. Perhaps this was a case of a silently failing o2 sensor, and somehow dry cranking my engine after changing the fuel filters made it queef out some dust and work less sporadically, just for a little while. IDFK, but I've finally gotten somewhere. Still replacing cat and downstream Bosch sensor PO put on with a Denso.

What came off
Unknown age but detective work of last owner and one before him indicate no less than 75k on it - likely way more.
Part #21109601
Internet reveals Denso o2 sensor for a 06-07 Passat.
Very little mention of this part # across the web, just like the MAF and fuel pump part numbers.

 

What a nightmare.....well hopefully you are good to go for now!

 

Crazy some of the things you find people do to a used vehicle. Glad you seemed to have found your problem.