damn, engine oil pan is punctured

*sigh*

I saw rust on the pan and I scratched it off, then it started pissing oil. I didn't scratch hard, so normal vibration from driving would have caused the rust chunk to fall off, eventually

I am happy it happens to me while I am under my tacoma for repairs than it happening while on the road and maybe damaging the engine....

My engine oil was due for a change, so I guess I got a free engine oil change

I will change the entire pan, instead of patching because there's rust spots and chunks all over it

So, what do you guys recommend? OEM Oil pan or aftermarket?

Also, while changing the oil and the pan, will change the filter. Any recomended brands?

thanks

 

Would just stick with stock as far as oil pan and for oil filter I've used many but am currently running a Royal Purple one.

Def a good thing it happened while under the truck! Good luck with the fix

 

I'd be carefully examining the rest of the underside of the vehicle, chassis included.

You may well have more serious issues pending self destruction.

No need to buy boutique oil filters, just quality ones. Wix, Napa Gold, Purolator Pure One. Even Toyota filters can be found at a good price on Amazon and eBay.

 

I've always used OEM filters, don't cost much more, and better quality
You might not be able to get an aftermarket pan that will fit your vehicle.
Best option is a used one from a wrecker, if they will sell it (may not want to separate it from the engine.)
Keep in mind that the 4wd pan is likely different from a 2wd pan, depending on your year and engine..

 

If rust thru occurred to the engine's oil pan...

I might assume that rust might be eating thru elsewhere as well.

So inspect the frame, Trans/Tcase pans and the axle's center chunks.

 

Any filter is good, just stay away from the orange Frams! I personally use WIX and Purolator, OEM can't be beat either, just can't find them around here.

I wouldn't waste money on the expensive filters, I don't believe they filter any better than the basic ones. As long as you have a clean engine, your filter has very little to do. It's your air filter that's far more important.

 

I'd use the OEM Toyota filters, you can get a case for $40 on amazon.

 

Are you 4x4? I'd just jb weld that sumbitch. The front diff is a total pta to remove especially for a small oil leak. Of course this depends on the condition of the truck but if your oil pan rusted out I doubt you're babying the thing

 

Last Oil pan I bought from Toyota was not the expensive Now if I could only find it.

I used to use Wix filters my local auto parts closed now I just buy a case of Toyota ones

 

Oil pans aren't too crazy expensive on amazon. For Gen 1 (at least through 2000 model year), part numbers and prices as of today are:

4 cylinder
...(non Pre-Runner): 12101-75041 - $167
...(Pre-Runner): 12101-75050 - $154

6 cylinder (3.4L)
...2WD (non Pre-Runner): 12101-62080 - $173
...4WD (and Pre-Runner): 12101-62070 - $162

 

much better prices from http://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/oe-toyota/1210175041

4 cylinder
...(non Pre-Runner): 12101-75041 - $105
...(Pre-Runner): 12101-75050 - $111

6 cylinder (3.4L)
...2WD (non Pre-Runner): 12101-62080 - $131
...4WD (and Pre-Runner): 12101-62070 - $119

 

Nice, will need to add that to my repertoire.

 

That is quite a bit more then I paid for mine then it has been a few years time flies

 

My frame is good. It's rusty, but it's good After so much time hitting it with a welding hammer, no hole appeared anywhere at all and it's rock solid everywhere. The transmission and transfer case are all good and rust free.

nah, it's really rusty, so I won't try to patch it. I don,t want this to happen again anytime soon. Removing the front diff and all...

Here, toyota wants 320$ for a pan. Got an aftermaket one instead, lol

 

so, here is what my old pan looks like. No way I am going to repair this. Rust is going to eat through it in another spot and I'll have to patch it again. Then again, then again. Better to put a new one in

oh and at the scrap yard, they were in the same state, so that's also the reason why I got a brand new one

it is punctured right on the weld of the extra welded-on smaller pan. They all tend to rust there, from what I saw in the scrap yards

 

.
OP ... I am assuming that you did a good frame, cross members and body mount check ... you can do all this visually without taking off items.

Clearwater Bill gave you some excellent advice ... many bad things could happen if you start taking parts off to check them
.

 

yeah, I did check all of the frame, and it successfully passed the welding hammer test

I am already taking things off for repairs or maintenance, so I see it right away when something is too rusty. I meticulously check and change if it is too rusty

 

I know this is an old post. I have 2003 4cyl suffering the same fate with the oil pan, same place at the weld. I noticed you got yours out. Did you have to remove the front differential?

 

Is yours four wheel drive?

General consensus is that it has to come down to remove oil pan unless you want to partially remove engine and still fight it.

 

Yes it is, that's what I've heard.