Brice's NA V6 Build

However the last example can cause boost spikes correct?

 

Either can. Part throttle/ full boost is usually where that happens. Mine most recently was compressor to wastegate. 15 psi spring would hit 20 at the manifold under those conditions just mentioned.

An electronic boost controller cause also aid in preventing spikes.

 

Manifold refence should also net you more power, since that is where the wastegate is sourced. Simply because engine is getting the wastegate spring's psi.

 

hmm, an electronic boost controller is definitely in my future, just figured I give this manual one a go until then Thanks for the info though, you probably know more than anyone else on this thread lol

 

Technically speaking, the vacuum port for the WG should be right off the turbo to keep from exceeding the turbo's capacity. That said, if you aren't planning on boosting anywhere near the turbo's max, doesn't really matter.

 

Manual boost controller done. Kinda fudged it a bit but it should work fine. Next is a pressure switch. This is all for temporary btw.

 

Is there a downside to pre IC wastegate?

 

Seems like u wont be gettin true spring rating boost at the manifold. And i would assume higher temps on the wg diaphragm may lead to shorter life possibly

 

Less boost pressure unless you have a boost controller.

Eh I doubt it, unless you have a cheapo eBay one, since the precision turbo WG is ment for much more than I'll ever use it for

 

I imagine you would get a lot more spiking going post IC.

 

That's what I was thinking as well.

 

Pretty sure it is the opposite. That is also where a lot of OEM's reference theirs from.

 

With a controller it doesn't really matter where you run the vacuum from, you can adjust get to get the proper/desired boost. The reason you would want to reference or run the vacuum directly from the turbo is so that the WG reacts quicker/without a delay as boost builds in the turbo which will prevent you from overboosting at the turbo. Again, this is only relevant if you are pushing your turbo to its max.

How does this work? If its a valve, that's going to be hard to control the air flow, no?

 

Its a ball and spring valve that I can adjust via a screw, just like a manual boost controller Essentially the boost has to push a ball into a spring which then allows flow to the wastegate, opening it.

 

Nice! I bought this one:

NXS Motorsports Signature Series Manual Boost Controller

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089FNIBG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Put a little de-electric grease in it to keep the ball/spring from rusting.

 

hmm good idea I should do that to mine too... In other news. I turned the boost up to about 5 psi, I also noticed in doing so that it spools a 100 or so rpm sooner. AFR's are in the 13's at full boost. Also, by the end of January I should have all that is needed to go up to 10psi, speaking of 10 psi, the truck over boosted on accident to 10 psi, and hauled butt!!! AFR's were lean for a sec or so, so I wont say them here in case someone throws a fit lol, it was only like that for like .5 of a second. cant wait to have 10 real psi though.

 

Spools more quickly because the cracking pressure is higher. So more exhaust is running across the turbine than being vented.

 

Hey I need some suggestion on a rear locker. I don't remember where I read it but, I remember reading that there is a specific locker to avoid since it routes power to the rear right axle before the left leading to broken rear left axles. I'm not really wanting to get an air locker or electric locker (unless pops up used and cheap lol) rather a mechanical/ratcheting one.

 

Detroit is the only way to go if you don't want selectable.

 

Air locker.