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Stock 2012 Tacoma DC non-JBL non-touchscreen head unit frequency response

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Big Teddy, Oct 12, 2016.

  1. Oct 12, 2016 at 9:18 PM
    #1
    Big Teddy

    Big Teddy [OP] New Member

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    Justin
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    Hello all. This is my first post so hope I'm doing this right. I see a lot of posts about Tacoma audio and keeping the factory head unit. While possibly adding a dsp, line output converter, cleansweep (or newer FIX series), or other method seems to be addressed in multiple threads, I have yet to find a thread or post saying why. I get it that many newer OEM head units now use processed frequency response curves and some even change dynamically with increasing/decreasing volume to account for poor factory speaker performance. What I'm looking for is someone who has RELEVANT experience with this being the case with our Tacoma head units (specifically the non-touchscreen non-JBL units preferably from a 2012-ish Tacoma). Has no one with access to bench-testing equipment such as an RTA ever hooked one up and proven this theory? It seems I must be missing something that I can't find anyone who has been contributing to this forum's audio section, who has access to this somewhat specialized equipment and who has maybe posted proof of this actually happening and to what degree this processing occurs? Maybe someone can point me in the right direction if I'm wrong....I've searched all over here and YouTube so maybe I'm searching for the wrong keywords/phrases?
    Seems we could even take this a step further and do this kind of testing for each OEM head unit offered up by this forums namesake. I think this kind of testing and measuring could be really fun for someone who might have access to this sort of equipment and be also beneficial to guys looking to tweak their systems to certain parameters they know will get them close to sounding good and flat...obviously we all hear things differently, but close can be an extremely helpful place to start if you don't have the testing equipment needed to take these measurements.
    So I guess my purpose in opening this thread is to :
    1. Have somebody bench test this/these stereos and maybe YouTube link the results or just
    post if that's asking too much for a video with confirmation whether this stereo does
    indeed alter frequency response.
    2. Maybe someone who has a DSP in their truck already can post pictures of their processors'
    settings and the resulting RTA analysis (since this should be similar across the board to
    specific cab types assuming we all realize it's just to get close....obviously a given setup's
    frequency response will differ for reasons such as different speakers being chosen or
    different dsp types, whether graphic or parametric ....etc...... It would be nice to see
    others eq settings, crossover settings and types, time corrections...etc...
    Anyway...if this information is already out there then I apologize and ask to be pointed in the right direction. If not, well I'm in San Diego and would offer up my head unit as the first guinea pig to show whether this signal is flat or jacked up.
    Thanks guys in advance for your replys and I hope someone can help me!
     
  2. Oct 13, 2016 at 6:22 AM
    #2
    dmb1650

    dmb1650 Well-Known Member

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    First, I would read through @SlowComa666's whole thread since there's some good info to read. Below is a quote out of his thread that lead me to go the route of OEM head unit(2012 non-jbl, non etune, non touch screen) to a miniDSP c-dsp 6x8. I have build thread on mine on this site and DIYMA too. If you read through it and have any questions for me I'd be happy to answer them for you. I don't have much details on my settings. I tuned back at the beginning of the year and haven't had much time to go back and tweak much. Not 100% happy but just haven't had time to tune. But, it still sounds many times better than stock. I also am not running a sub. So I can't say If there would be any issues setting that up, but given the power of the DSP I am positive it will work.


     
  3. Oct 13, 2016 at 5:48 PM
    #3
    Big Teddy

    Big Teddy [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for responding...doesn't seem to be much interest so far on this...lol. I am wanting to keep my factory stereo only because I don't want to worry about parking my truck somewhere overnight where a touchscreen (aftermarket) will lead to the rest of my stuff being stolen. That having been said, I don't want to use a separate volume, as is the case for the cleansweep and every other dsp I've been looking at. I already have a jl 900/5 a set of jl comps and coax for the back. Would eventually like some hertz 165 xl, but for now just the Jl's will do. Also a pair of w1v2 10's for bass. Anyway, if there is an altered frequency response from the head unit ...it will definitely sway my decision, but why would I want to install a cleansweep or other dsp and use a separate controller if I don't have to? It seems crazy to me that no one has asked this question and done the research given it is one of the best selling trucks in America! Please....MR MARV...maybe you can he'd some light?
     
  4. Oct 14, 2016 at 5:28 AM
    #4
    dmb1650

    dmb1650 Well-Known Member

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    Running a DSP kinda goes outside the norm for most people upgrading their audio so I can see why you haven't had much of a response. Hopefully some others will chime in, but in the mean time I would search up DSP and read some of the build logs on here. I know there's others here that keep the factory HU. I wouldn't recommend the cleansweep for our HU since you don't really need its features. You can get right and left full range signal from the front speaker wires. There's others who have just used a line-out converter to add a amp and sub and have had no trouble with bass being reduced as the volume knob goes up. If you are going to run the JL equipment I would just run high-level inputs into the JL amp and skip the line-out converter.

    If I get some time this weekend I'll try and run some sweeps at different volume levels. Only problem is I roll off my midbass at ~80hz so it wont show you much below that.
     
  5. Oct 15, 2016 at 9:22 AM
    #5
    Mr Marv

    Mr Marv 1-831-383-0308 7am-10pm pst Vendor

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    Got your message Big Teddy and sorry for the delay in chiming in here. I didn't read the entire thread as I only have time to pass through to answer messages this morning so forgive me if I am redundant. We have not had a chance to check the actual response of the factory headunit as planned since I didn't have time to put on my BBQ meet this year however we did test numerous aftermarket headunits at a previous BBQ and interestingly enough every single one of those had altered responses when set on flat that gave them their "signature sound" with the exception of several "high end" decks which actually had nearly flat responses. Also, it was brought to my attention recently that someone online "tested" the Tacoma Entune headunit response by putting a mic in front of a speaker connected to it however I'm sure you know that won't give you the actual response of the headunit rather it will be a cumulative response of both headunit and speaker.

    I have built as well as helped numerous members here build countless systems with great success using the factory headunit (non JBL) with NO DSP. Based on my ears only at this time there does not appear to be some wacky response built into the factory headunit nor any time correction etc as in some of the so called "upgraded" factory systems out there. I have however tested the clipping point on several Entunes and each clipped at either 51 or 52 of 60 on the volume scale so I set the gains using 50 as max volume which will also circumvent any bass reduction at high volume.

    In any case my experience has shown me that you can build an excellent sounding system using the factory headunit without a dsp if you start with great sounding speakers that don't require a ton of EQ to "bandaid" poor tonality, install them properly (ie solid mounting surface and at least minimal deadening around the speaker etc), seal the back wave from the front wave, get your phase and levels between drivers correct etc and adding a dsp after doing all of this will just be "icing on the cake" if you know how to use it properly. (if your goal is a good soundstage/imaging etc you will need a dsp along with the experience to use it and if you want it really good ideally you would want to change the speaker locations).

    I'm a bit tied up today but feel free to call at the number in my signature (or below my screen name if you are on a phone/tablet) if you'd like to chat a bit on the subject and if I don't answer I will call back as soon as I am free.
     

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