Problems Shifting

I am having a hard time shifting. I don't know if it's a transmission problem (synchros), the clutch, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or something else. I've been reading other posts and watching videos. After all of the research, it feels like I am more confused.

Here's what is going on:

Yesterday afternoon, I started the truck, it had a high pitched sound. Kind of like trying to start the truck when it was already running. I turned it off, and started it again. No problems. Drove to Home Depot with no issues. When I got in to leave, it did the same thing, but now I had a hard time getting it into 1st & 2nd. Once moving, I had no problems shifting all of the way home.

Got into the driveway. Shut her off, and started her back up. No whining/grinding noise, BUT I could not put her into gear without grinding and really forcing the stick into any gear. The clutch pedal feels fine with the same amount of pressure it always has had.

When it is NOT running, I can slide the stick into all of the gears, even reverse. But once the engine is running, it will not go into any gear.

I checked the tranny fluid, and it's good. I replaced it about a year ago (Redline MT-90). There aren't any leaks around the master & slave cylinders. Clutch juice is full.

I had the same issue about a year ago. That's why the fluid was changed as was the plastic seat (Marlin Crawler). After I did that, it shifted smoothly with no issues. A few months before that, the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder were replaced as well because I had lost pressure in the pedal.

Truck Info:
- 2001 SR5 ExtraCab 4WD 2.7L
- Manual (obviously)
- Over 270K miles
- Original clutch & tranny
- Daily Driver

If any of you guys/gals can help me out in any way, I would greatly appreciate it. I just need to be steered into the right direction with what it could possibly be.

Thanks in advance!
~JP

 

My .02 cents.....Throw out bearing and pressure plate.

 

You have 270k miles on your original clutch?? That's impressive but you need a new clutch, I would bet money on it. Most of them last 100k - 150k on average. Your symptoms sound like mine on every manual trans I've owned when the clutch started to go out.

 

A bad throwout bearing "chirps" like crickets and goes away when the clutch pedal is pressed. Doesn't affect your shifting unless it's completely crapping out on you I would guess. Either way, if you're replacing the TOB or resurfacing the flywheel then you might as well put a new clutch in, since it all has to come out anyway. Especially with the mileage you've got on yours.

 

@eon_blue With my mileage, I kind of figured a new clutch was in order. I can't really complain. 270k on original clutch is pretty cool.
I just wanted to see what others may think the problem can be. Just in case.

 

@KdF @eon_blue Do you guys have any recommendations for a clutch kit?

 

If you're all stock then the stock Toyota clutch is what I would stick with, I think Aisin makes it. Alot of people like the Stage 1-3 clutches by URD if you go the performance route

 

Cool man. Thanks.
From looking around, I keep seeing Aisin & Excedy that are labeled as "OEM." URD Racing clutches have come up as well. I just need to keep it budget friendly without compromising quality.

 

No prob. Yeah the Aisin one is more than adequate, after all the one you've got lasted you this long lol. The URD clutches are probably overkill if you aren't running a supercharger or turbo.

 

Yeah...no supercharger or turbo. Just the trust 2.7L 4 banger. And you're right. 270K on original is pretty damn good. So why go with something besides factory?

A couple of questions: I've never done a clutch before. How difficult is it? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but far from being an expert mechanic. Is it something I can tackle alone? Besides a tranny jack, is there any special tool or tools I will need? Any tricks or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Can't help ya there, sorry....wish I knew how to do it myself because I would've saved myself a TON of money over having Toyota do it for me last time (you don't even want to know what I paid, but I needed it done quick and done right so I bit the bullet). I've heard of people doing it themselves though, it's time consuming because you have to drop the trans. Hopefully someone else will chime on in that

 

@eon_blue Gotcha. I need to save as much as possible, so I might have to tackle it myself.
Thanks for all of your help, bro. Appreciate it.

 

It's not that hard, hardest part is getting the transmission input shaft in the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft. It's best to use a clutch pilot tool to line up the driven plate (I've never used one, I align them visually). Be sure to get the flywheel resurfaced. If the flywheel is undamaged you can reuse it after resurfacing. If the flywheel shows heat damage, ie temper colors, cracks or scoring, from slipping get a new one.

The symptoms you describe sound like the clutch isn't releasing completely but at 270,000 miles I'd replace is so hopefully the flywheel is useable.

 

@cosmicfires Thanks, man.
Do the clutch kits come with the pilot tool?

 

I have seen some that do on the web.