Crack in sheet metal of door - INVENT A USE FOR THAT SPACE

The only major body issue on my truck when i purchased it was this 3" crack. Left rear door. And a series of little cracks (might just be in the paint) above. It doesn't look to have been dented. Or maybe it had been and this is the effects of a bad repair. I am at a loss as to how to fix this? I grew up in Wisconsin so i can Bondo at redneck proficiency but it isn't the kind of thing i have fixed with filler before.

Any advice? how do I fix this?

Here are photos with packing tape on it. a temporary fix that lasted 11 months.

I have photos from the day I purchased it, pre-tape, but i have to find them.

 

Sand and figure out ASAP if it's paint or eaten into door, you them have some options like replace door or fix just paint is easy just prime and paint

 

this was taken the day after buying it.

 

That looks like it has bondo already on it. Looks like somebody tried some bodywork already.. Your best bet is to try and get a replacement door at junk yard.. Maybe you can get lucky and find the same color. Good luck. Hope it works out..

 

I was first going to remove the interior of the door and inspect. If folks want to take a guess Please do.

I will try to get better photos of the odd (upper/little) paint cracks in the morning.

 

Get a new door it looks bad

 

Looks like bad previous bodywork. Coming from experience in body work. Removing the interior door panel is a good idea. Either too much filler or holes drilled in the skin, then packed with filler. Poor surface prep could be culprit as well. Good luck.

 

...new door skin if ya want it to look purdy/original
or weld it... then lather on yer favorite bondo

If ya weld decently... and do the prep correctly... bondo should not be needed.
But you'll definitely be ginding/sanding - re-priming/re-painting that area after the weld work.

I'm no pro...
but bet even I could weld that crack closed.

TIG would be best for welding that crappy pot metal.

If you have no idea what I'm talking about...
seek professional help.

 

www.car-part.com for a used door

 

It all depends on you .

Does it need to be picture perfect so you can brag about How good your paint looks ??

Remember Bondo sucks water like a Sponge .

Myself I would clean it as good as possible put in some Gorilla Hair (Short strand fiberglass) remove some of the excess call it good.

Maybe you need to go with a brand new door skin and then paint the truck .

My Doors look so much worse from being hit with deer and fork lifts

 

Weld from inside or out? I was thinking inside but i have not really looked at the interior yet. And might not even be able to this winter. I only have mig, and yeah, that thin low purity body steel tends to blow through.

 

prob a bad bondo fill job...theres prob a good sized dent underneath..

 

No. It does not need to be perfect. I 100% care about the longevity of the truck because no manufacturer has made anything newer that i like and i predict they are going to continue in the wrong direction. But the quality of the paint job was going to be me with a manufacturer color matched rattle can. That said, there are enough imperfections on the paint that might manifest into rust in a few years to warrant a repaint of the body. but only in a few years; Depends on how my touch up efforts hold up.

 

If you are talking non oriented fiberglass mat and polyester figerglass resin over the crack on the inside, that was something i considered but i had no clue if that was an acceptable practice. Thanks. I do not do bodywork.

 

Bummer. I was fooled.

My experiences with salvage yards here in colorado is that they have slim pickings (but what little they have is low rust). But this might be the easy solution.



I will post better photos of the small cracks and try to open it up today. I have opened up many many doors. More than i can count. And never does it turn out well. Too many little tabs and tape and push pins and things to break.

Without a heated garage the proper repair might have to be put this off until spring and just tape over for now. Any suggestions on a temporary fix and a permanent one will be devoured and carefully considered. Thanks for the help.

 

I have cured many a fiber glass repair job in below freezing temperatures with either a heat lamp or space heater far enough away to not blister the paint

 

I always take a magnet with me when buying a car, if I see something suspect I can check real quick it it has lots of bondo or not.

 

Just TIG it.
'Course you got to see how bad it is underneath first....

 

Are you advising fiberglass on the inside or outside of the door?