Head Gasket Noob Questions

I had my local mechanic do compression and leakdown tests on my 1999 3RZ with 236,000mi because it was rough starting and blowing smoke. I thought it might be valve seals but looks like head gasket instead; leakdown on cylinder #1 causes bubbles to come up through the radiator. It's not overheating or burning coolant but I expect it will only get worse.

The mechanic recommends a remanufactured engine swap, new thermostat, new water pump, new radiator, all new hoses, etc. Plus I need a new exhaust manifold and clutch (which I already knew). And I don't have the money for all that. He recommended against just the head gasket because he thinks the price delta between that and a reman engine is worth it for the peace of mind and warranty.

I got quotes and it's only a couple hours shop time difference between the engine and head gasket so I don't think he's pushing the former only for profit. I just can't afford the work, so I'm thinking about doing the head gasket myself, which I've never done.

I have all the basic wrenches, 3/8 and 1/2 drive sockets, breaker bars, torque wrench, etc. but do I need any special tools? I will buy new head bolts.
Is it better to buy a reman head or have mine surfaced at a machine shop? Who's a reputable engine vendor?
I assume I should do water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, etc. at the same time?
Is there any other work I should do at the same time, while I'm in there? Valve clearances come to mind, but anything else?

I'm still doing research but this is where I'm at right now.

 

The engine swap is less rocket science then just doing the head gasket .

Pretty much pull the old engine drop in the new.

Some shops just don`t have the know how or don`t want to take the time to do the head gasket I hear so many try to talk people into used or reman engines instead

That is one of those things how do you judge how hard it is to someone who never has done it

Most times it is some little minor detail that causes all the problems

Like the left over brackets you have no idea where they go.

Get all the belts on to notice one still sits outside the truck of course it will be the inside one

 

Interesting, so an engine swap is easier in some ways? I've never done engine swap nor head gasket. I see his point and would do the reman engine if I had the cash, but possibly I could afford it by doing install myself.

The truck is clean and in good condition except for the engine and clutch, I'd hate to sell it because of those things.

 

Depending on the source of the reman engine, you may even get a warranty (piece of mind). With only replacing the head, you still have a block with 200,000+ mile on those components.

 

Let me put it this way the Lot Boy could do most of a engine swap having someone check things over .

the head gasket you pretty much need someone skilled after the accessories are removed.

Your disturbing the timing you need to readjust the valves plus do any R&R needed

 

Just to give you a idea here is a detailed video showing the entire process of replacing the head gaskets on a 1st Gen 3.4l v6
Cylinder Head & Gasket DIY Procedure - Toyota 5VZ-FE: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUdzuNFw-6nlCcguzhKhFyHgQ6PEud5o1

*edit* sorry noticed you have the 4banger.

 

The V6 is significantly different from the 3RZ. The 3RZ has a timing chain and the V6 has a timing belt.

I recommend downloading a pdf of the Toyota repair manual from the "DIY and How To" thread at the top of the forum. Read through the cylinder head removal and installation section.

Other than rusted bolts, the camshaft timing gear bolt can be tight, so you need a tool to hold the camshaft while loosening that. Also, a tool to hold the crank pulley to tighten that bolt to close to 200 ft-lbs. without spinning the engine (See https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/homemade-crank-pulley-tool.140646/).

To check the valve clearances you need feeler gauges.

The other thing is some will say the head gasket doesn't just blow without an underlying reason. You may have corrosion or warping of the cylinder head to deal with. If you've been driving it a while with the leak, then the block could have eroded slightly near the leak. The block surface needs to be perfectly flat to within 0.05mm otherwise a new head gasket will leak. You'd need a machinists straight edge (ideally a 12" and 18") and feeler gauges to check for flatness.

Like any auto work, it's the unexpected things that make the job difficult. If you don't mind having it off the road for a while to handle the unexpected things, then you can do it yourself, but read and follow the factory repair manual.

 

Having gone through this myself, in your case I would get a remain engine and put it in. If I didnt have the money that's what I'd have done. I thought mine was just the head gasket too but guess what 3/2RZs rarely blow the gasket. Turns out my problem is what the 3/2RZs are famous for.... The exhaust valves tightened up and cracked the head. So my head gasket job when from $1000 to $2500 but it was worth it for me because I know the bottom end on my truck is solid so I had them build up a new head casting using my valves and cams and new seals and such. They of course did a valve clearance adjustment as well which should be done every 50000 miles to avoid cracking your head. So unless you are prepared for your routine head gasket job to become more involved.... I'd just throw another 3RZ in there and call it a day. By the way any good mechanic should pressure test a head once it's off the truck to check it for cracks and have it millled if it passes the pressure test. If they just replace the gasket without having the head tested or milled you'll be changing that head gasket again in 5000mi and you won't find out if putting that head back on is worth it (because of possible cracks).

 

Of course I think the reman engine would be best, but it's just too much money. Mechanic quoted me $7k including the new clutch. I could get it done a bit cheaper over the border in OR since I wouldn't have $500 in sales tax over there. I want to support my local mechanic and I think he'd do it right, but that bill would be a sore blow to my wallet.

I'll check valve clearances first. I've only had the truck 3 months, the previous owner said he did valves on schedule but I haven't checked.

Anybody know where I can buy a head gasket kit that includes all the other gaskets I'll need to do that job?

 

7k! Jebus jeist! A NEW 3rz and clutch flexplate isnt anywhere near that price unless you're talking balance/blueprint with top shelf stuff. You should be able to get a new OEM complete motor and clutch for around 2200$-2700$ without shipping. You can do it yourself in a day if you prep ahead of time. And yes, please read FSM in the sticky section.

 

Might want to look at supporting a different local mechanic! 7k? That is more then double of what my buddy just paid to have his engine and clutch replaced.

 

It's pretty high, no? I'm shopping around.

Where can you get new OEM motor and clutch for $2700? Dealer?

 

I bought one for my 2wd here 2195$:

http://www.toyotatruckengine.com/1995-2004-2rz-3rz-toyota-brand-new-engine-tacoma-4-runner-t100/

As for the clutch, there are a ton out there depending on what you want, more or less heavy duty than stock, pedal feel etc. Rockauto is where I got my Aisin OEM replacement for about 165$. They go up from there to about 500$.

 

The engine at that link...is it OEM Toyota or 3rd party manufacture? Seems too good to be Toyota at that price; I'm not putting a Chinese engine in my truck

 

Best bet is to do an engine swap if you can find an excellent motor, I went down this road and was
going to just do a head gastket then decided on just replacing the motor because it would cost just a little more money and I had a lot of miles on the original engine.
Come to find out the motor had 2 cracked heads that was causing the head gasket problem.

With the motor being replaced I was able to do all those other things that needed to be done
all at the same time since the motor was out of the truck like
Reseal the whole motor, front seal, rear seal, valve gaskets, oil pan gasket, new clutch and bearings,
new timing belt and water pump and tensions bearings, hoses, vacuum hoses and all that stuff that is so easy to do when the motor is out of the truck.
Ended costing me 1500 for engine with 100,000 miles that was in the truck running and 1000 to have it all swapped over, so 2500 plus parts for clutch etc

 

Check out yotashop.com, they're in WA and have OEM Toyota dressed long blocks for a little over $3K ( www.yotashop.com/3-0l-toyota-3vze-dressed-long-block-3vze-30l-dbl-8895/ ) looks like your mechanic is shooting just a wee bit high

 

The one I got from them has Toyota markings an the block and head, could they be Chinese fakes? Doubtful. Its got 74k on it with no problems so far.

 

Just to clarify, $7000 was the out-the-door price, including labor, tax, etc. The engine itself (S&J out of Spokane) is $3400 inclusive of shipping and core. Add in cost for new radiator, hoses, water pump, fuel filter, thermostat, 3x belts, clutch, labor, and tax brings it to darn near $7000.

 

How common are the head gasket issues?

I am looking at a 96 2wd v6 today
170k Miles
1 owner

 

It's not a huge issue, pre 98 v6 have a slightly more likely chance to blow, but it's still not a real concern. We're talking it might go out at 250k instead of the later ones that make it to 300k haha, still lots of miles and chances are it will never go as long as you maintain your cooling system well.