Advice Needed--Replacing Head Gaskets on a 2005 4.0L V6 1GR-FE

I have a leaking head gasket on my 2005 4.0L V6 Tacoma with 166k miles and I'm planning to tackle the job myself. I'm also planning to replace the water pump and thermostat at the same time because of the mileage. I've replaced head gaskets before, but only on older domestics with iron blocks and heads. Is there anything I should know about replacing the gaskets on this engine before I start? Is it any different than with an older cast iron engine?

So far my parts/labor list is this:
-Complete engine overhaul gasket set from Toyota ($250)
-Fel-pro head bolt set ($50)
-Aisin water pump ($83)
-Toyota thermostat ($30)
-2 gallons Toyota Long Life coolant ($50)
-Oil and filter ($40)
-Heads cleaned, inspected, resurfaced, and valves pressure tested ($208)

This puts me at $711, which is still far cheaper than the $2800 that I was quoted. I also plan to leave the engine in the truck while I do the work, as I don't have access to a hoist, stand, or garage (yep, I'll be outside and I'll just tape up the engine real well while the heads get machined).

Any tips or suggestions? Unusual or special tools I will need?

 

Get a GOOD straight edge and some feeler gauges to check the deck also.

 

Thanks for the tip! I just ordered a machinist's straight edge.

I just realized though, if the block is warped or needs machining, I won't have a way to take it somewhere, so I'll have to deal with it myself. I just read about the sandpaper/wd40/something flat DIY method and checking the surface frequently with the straight edge and feeler gauge. Has anyone here tried this? I'm honestly toying around with the idea of doing the heads myself if they aren't terrible, but I'm hoping to get at least another 100k miles out of this engine. Is sanding any of the surfaces myself a particularly bad idea? I did a google search and it looks like some people do it all the time and some people think it's harebrained.

 

Also any thoughts on replacing the timing chain while I'm in there? Or do they just last forever?

 

I've never lost a timing chain; then again, I change oil often and drive conservatively.

I wonder about the FelPro Head Bolt set. Not trying to come down on them as I've used their gaskets many times, just not sure if their head bolts measure up to OEM quality. Someone with more knowledge of this component will hopefully chime in.
You would not want to skimp on a part like that.

 

Personally, if I were looking to get another 100k from the motor, I would leave the grinding and leveling to a professional. Another thing to remember, depending on how much might need ground off can change clearance tolerances.

 

In case you have not seen this - factory service manual:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

 

Any work that includes removing material from the block or heads should be done by a machinist. That is not a F-up that you want to deal with. Sand paper and engine components don't work well if the engine bottom end is still assembled. Would REALLY suck to do it yourself end miss a little bit of grit and end up with a scored cylinder.
If you have warpage (possible but NOT LIKELY), compare it to the acceptable range. If it is beyond acceptable, you can rent a uhaul pickup or maybe another SLC member can give you a hand with transport to a reputable shop. Again, if you didnt run the motor hot, warpage beyond the acceptable range is NOT likely. But, check to make sure.

 

I had read somewhere that the 1GR-FE pistons at top stroke comes at less than 1/10mm from the head to increase turbulence and fuel efficiency, and as such it is out of the question to machine the head when replacing the head gasket. Can anyone confirm?

 

I don't know what is on the market for the 1gr-fe, but generally if you have a zero deck (or close) engine, head work can be compensate for with thicker head gaskets to get the compression where it needs to be. For blocks that need work and are a zero deck, there are companies that make/can make head gaskets with compression rings that allow the piston to move a couple thousandths into the gasket bore.
Do I think OP will have these issues, no. But still check to make sure things are good.

 

It's called the "squish band": http://wikivisually.com/wiki/Squish_(piston_engine)/wiki_ph_id_0

 

Is it possible to remove the heads without taking the engine out? Manual calls for motor to be removed but looking at the engine i don't see why you need to remove the whole block.

 

In that case, I won't be doing any sanding. I'll also just sacrifice the extra $200 for peace of mind and have a shop machine the heads. It never overheated. I think it's been leaking for a couple months, but didn't get bad until recently. I feel like I caught it earlier than most people would have.

As for pulling the engine, I'm not sure why the manual calls for that either. Maybe it's just easier? Or they want you to pull the cams with the heads still on? I don't know, but I sure as hell hope it can be done with the engine still in the truck.

 

Its definately easier to work on with the engine on the ground but im not sure if the extra time it takes to pull the engine is more or less then removing the heads with the block in the truck.

 

What is the size and bit type for the head bolts. Thanks!

 

SADM10E double hex made by SnapOn. I couldn’t find any cheaper alternatives.