I done goofed. Cracked upper oil pan.

Dudes named Tim give some good info!

 

Thanks just trying to help prepare for a large $$$$ payout. I personally don't like the weld option especially b/c a proper crack repair requires you to drill holes at either end of the crack to keep it from getting longer. So with that being said it would still have to be removed to clean out all the chips. Then as far as JB Weld or Epoxy, I know a lot of yous are in nice ol' California but in eastern US with snow comes salt and/or sodium chloride. Which will most likely eat away or dissolve those compounds. Seeing as though the OP does drive in snow (avatar pic) I'd shy away with those items; unless he gives no F's because at the end of the day it's his truck and money.

 

Subed for final outcome

 

Another fabricator here. I've aluminum welded oil pans on other manufacturers, no Toyota yet.

I've had about 50 percent success.

You need to preheat the entire piece before welding. If you don't, the repair weld cools and contracts. This causes minute cracks around the repair areas to develope.

I'm for the epoxy route. There are other types that are specific for this issue.

 

Update: couldn't get an appointment til tomorrow (Wednesday) so he truck hasn't moved yet. Planning on getting a quote from them, and asking a few other dealerships and mechanics and see what I can do. Based on comments here, JB weld and real welding are not a good option unless I'm broke and can't afford to live without a car for a week. So I'm going to just pay up and pay to have the motor pulled and replace the upper oil pan part. Will post another update with how much I was quoted, and how much I end up paying to get it fixed. Thanks for all the info guys! Really appreciate it all.

 

Yours had a 1/2" hole that went 100 miles. His has a hair line crack, so ...... 100k?

Lol

 

Wow that's Bull Shrimp, we regularly get tow trucks dropping off vehicles at our dealer. Even if they have an appointment or not. They should have still took you in Monday and call you when after they looked at it.

 

I think that the JB option would work well. That stuff is incredible. Personally, I'd try it an keep an eye on it for a while. If it doesn't hold you can still get pulled and fixed.

If it were a newer truck I would just get it fixed, but id say JB weld is worth the shot on a 10 year old truck.

 

I once had a similar issue with an aluminum oil pan on a car. I tried the JB weld route, 3 times over again, it still leaked a slow drip. Here's where I BELIEVE the crux of your issue lies: a hairline crack will be harder to fix than a larger crack because there is simply less material there for the "putty/slurry" to bind to. Also, it's important to point out the different expansion coefficients between the two materials(aluminum and JB weld, from whatever far away galaxy it is mined from). As the oil/oil pan increase in temperature under use, they will expand and contract at a different rate than JB weld. Hence, it has a good chance of breaking it's own bond during normal use. In the end, maybe it will work, maybe it wont, just don't kid yourself about the odds of any repair being stacked against you. Want to fix in and forget about it? Just replace the part, assuming it is truly the upper oil pan.

 

So they just called me. $5,200. Well crap. Did not expect that. 30 hours of labor to pull the motor and replace the lower part of the motor or upper oil pan or whatever it's called. $900 in parts. Was expecting like $2500 max. So I'm going to call around and get quotes from other places, and potentially see if insurance will cover it (the guys at the dealership said they might cover since I have full coverage insurance). But if not, I might seriously consider the JB weld option and just always keep lots of oil with me.

 

Ditto. Clean it, rough it up, and JB Weld - can't hurt to try.

The bigger the glob, the better the job

 

They also said one of the motor mounts broke, which is probabaly what led to the motor hitting the bolt on the diff case causing the crack. So, one cheap motor mount is going to cost me over $5,000 in repairs.

 

Drop front diff, then drop oil pan. Replace O-ring while in there. Two 10mm head bolts, at the rear, hold the rear main seal to the oil pan.

No need to remove the transmission. The studs will have to be removed for clearance.

If you chose to do it yourself.

 

and just like Torspd said in post above me ^^^^^^^^^^


Working on the tech side with another auto manufacturer, I can always say that the dealer charges based on what the manufacturer says in their repair bible but great techs who do it for a living can always find short cuts to save a lot of time. Just saying, doesn't always happen but we can get around things after doing repairs for 15 plus years day in and day out on the same model vehicles.

Then when I go home, I really don't like working on my own rig which sucks sometimes.......Just makes me feel like I'm at work again instead of enjoying my day off wrenching on my own chit that needs attention.

Keep your head up and shoulder tap some people, you may find someone willing help out no matter. Sorry to hear about the bad bottom out.

 

How hard is it to remove the front diff?

In time this is a repair I would like to do myself, as this sort of thing bothers me knowing that it can potentially be an issue again at the most unwanted moment.

 

With a jack, pretty easy.

 

Like Mark said - with proper tools it's not too bad.
Personally, I'd rather pull the front diff than have to wrestle with the steering rack again

 

Lets not talk about the steering rack. Lol. I hate that freakin' thing. Hahaha.

 

+1 for JB weld, people fix dirbike cases with this stuff all the time.

 

If you have to ask, you can't afford it.