Colorado B.S. Thread

It looks looks ugly and the break-over angle looks comparable to some minivans.

 

What's the best way to tell for sure if your wheel bearings are bad?

Anyone buy the bearing assemblies from one of the two vendors on here? Any input on which one's better?

 

Jack it up off the ground and wiggle the wheel and see it it wiggles??

 

fwiw, my buddy bought his 1st one from here, and then he went with NAPA when he replaced it again. The 1st one had damage from when it was assembled that caused a vibration. Pretty sure I posted a pic of it in here

 

Which vendor?

 

bamatoy.

 

Prolly just a one time mistake I would imagine as I have never heard any complaints.
The NAPA bearing was the same KOYO bearing anyway.

 

What the mother trucker.........

 

Mine had a humming/grinding sound I used the NJ guy. So far so good. Maybe 5k on them. He was cheaper by maybe 10 bucks

 

So my 4 year old niece is starting to learn to write words and has been making her mom and dad cards. Usually with a single misspelled word. Today she proudly gives her mom this

 

I could have sworn I posted these.
Here is the one from bamatoy, Taking it apart to install a new bearing.


If you look at the lower left side of the bearing, you can see the bent lip on the race.


The bearing themselves were toast, but that was caused by not installing the inner seal. I wasn't on board when the 1st assembly went down, otherwise I would have caught it.


New bearing.


New spindle, his was scored badly where the seal rode.


Squishing it together.


I added grease too.


The seal that was forgot. He's vibe free now and hopefully still water free too.

 

$50K dollars. 50.

You could have a 500 HP, 800 lb/ft diesel that gets 24 MPG for 10K less. And without eight computers just for the transfer case. Just sayin'.

 

I'm sure you did.
You post all kinds of stuff that nobody pays attention to.

Now I'm interested though

 

I've got some from jersey built on the way right now. I'll let you check them out if you install them for me

 

Forgive me TW for I have sinned...

Looking up stupid shit when I should be sleeping. SO, I'm sure the answers are all there, but being that I am electrically stupid, I always want to get confirmation prior to embarking on any electrical things... to avoid starting a fire.

I would like to have the option of using my light bar whenever, but also being able to turn it on/off via the high beam lever. The switch is in front of the shifter, and its not easily accessible when I have the light bar on and a car comes around a corner quickly.

I think this post tells me how to do it, but I still want to confirm that I am ordering the right thing, and hooking stuff up correctly especially if I am going to tap into the stock wiring.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wiring-led-lightbar-to-high-beams.287237/page-2#post-7209109


This switch?
https://otrattw.net/V-SERIES-SEALED-ROCKER-SWITCH-BODY-ONLY-NO-ROCKER-VJD1D66B.html

Wiring diagram for that switch
http://www.otrattw.com/wiring/JD66B.pdf

And wiring diagram from the thread...




Is this how I should wire it?

Pin 4 is incoming power from the headlight circuit (high beam tap)
Pin 6 is incoming power from the battery (12v)
Pin 5 is outgoing power to the relay and also jumpered to Pin 2
Pin 7 is ground
Pin 1 Cap
Pin 3 Cap

 

Yep that's how you should wire it to keep the switch lights working also
This is assuming the high beam is switched on the + side and not ground

Also as long as switched on + side you could tap the high beam and add a diode so it's on every time high are on while still being able to turn on by the switch you have now

 

You did!!

 

Diode? WTF is that...

I don't want them on EVERY time the high beams are on, just when i have the switch turned to the on position that it's activated by the high beam trigger wire. Switch in off position and it's only stock high beams, and the other on position is not affected by high beams being on/off. So does that still look good?

@3378jakesr5 electrical magician?

And the light bar is already powered through a relay.

 

So yea stay with how you have it wired for a switch. Just gotta find the high beam wire in the cab.

Edit :a diode is a one way valve for electronics