Official Tennessee Thread

oh ok. I could understand that. and I would feel compelled to do it so a tire didnt go flying off haha. thats a sacrifice id be willing to make. especially when I have my own garage again with all my tools at hand.

 

Enjoy the chunking. Side effect of a soft compound and consequence of awesome traction

 

Hmmmmmmmmm, alost like those people speak from experience ......

I agree and disagree with Dave. Depends on what you're doing and how hard you go. I'd go IFS skid first as it will always help you when clearance is an issue. For the most part, even on a rocky trail, you can avoid using sliders by the line you choose. My armor list in order of importance for the offroading I do is:

1. IFS skid
2. Front bumper
3. Sliders
4. Rear bumper
5. LCA skids
6. Rear diff skid
7. T-case skid
8. Gas tank skid
9. Trans skid

 

Having to torque those bolts isn't a fast process, especially if any are loose as you'll want to re-torque them all again after you find them all. I wouldn't keep up with doing that every 5k miles if i DD my truck. Just way too much work. Haha I'm not telling you not to get them, rather if you feel you can't frequently remind yourself to check them then I'd be cautious of driving on some.

 

I would drop these from the list completely...haha

I'm thinkin, if I wait long enough, I may just be able to get them and run 'em only offroad. Now that I have all that stuff done to the truck, like I said, its finally complete for a little bit. But I gotta plant the seed in heathers head that I do want them sometime down the road. By holding off, I can get those AND keep my current ones. Then when its time for new tires, I could swap my trail grapplers on the beadlocks and get 35's AT tires or something that atleast looks a little aggressive but better on street for longevity, then swap wheels before going on a weekend trip

 

Heres the reply I got back from one of the dealers of those wheels:

Hi,

Method has the 105 in 17x9 with 3.5" BS and -38mm offset or a 17x8.5 with 4.75 BS and 0 offset. they are $326 or $295 a piece shipped.

Thanks
morgan.

My current wheel is 18x8 (i think), 4" BS -12mm offset. would it really matter which one I went with? Im thinkin the 3.5 BS -38mm backspacing may be the better option and may even take away the need for spacers?

whatcha think?

I could be wrong, but 326 max for a beadlock doesnt seem too bad (I know itd be cheaper if I made them but ive talked to some other ppl that mentioned if I couldnt weld them correctly, as far as "weight" of beads ran to weld them, balancing can be near impossible which is why I figured dropping a little more to not have to worry about that aspect of it).

 

also, for future reference if anyone needs it:

 

I enjoy it and try to show it off to my friends but they don't care or understand

 

just browsing and cloggin up the thread...





I like the "Method" in red also (top right wheel)

 

those would be do-able. just not chrome haha

 

"Machined"

Everyone has black or bronze now tho. Machined will get you ....(fill in the blank for a catchy rhyme).

Edit: Machined is esteemed!

 

I agree with you, but very few people have real beadlocks...so that outweighs it to me haha. plus the red rock ring.

and just cuz I like black haha

 

I'll try and break this down for you. We will use the example of a 17x8 wheel with a 4.1" backspace. Actual wheel widths are 1" larger than the stated wheel width. A 17x8 for example measures 9" from outside to outside of the wheel itself. Therefore, on a 17x8 with a 4.1" backspace, from the mounting surface to the inside edge of the wheel, you have 4.1" of space. That means you have 4.9" of space from the mounting surface to the outside edge of the wheel. The center of the wheel is at 4.5" (half of 9", the actual width). The difference between actual center and the mounting surface is your offset. This wheel has an actual center that is 4.5", but the backspace is 4.1" which means there is a 0.4" difference. 0.4" multiplied by 25.4 (that's mm per inch) equates to 10.16mm. Since the 10mm difference is towards the inside edge, it is considered a -10mm offset.

All that being said, if your wheels are 18x8 with a 4" BS, then the offset should be -12.7mm which might be called -13 or -12 depending on wheel manufacturer. Typically stamped on the back of one of the spokes is something like "18x8J ET -12" with ET being offset. The term ET originates from the German word 'Einpresstiefe' which translates as 'insertion depth'. By running spacers, you effectively numerically reduce the BS, and numerically increase the offset (away from 0). A 17x8.5 with 0 offset would definitely need spacers to clear the frame at full lock, and likely the upper control arm depending on tire size. A 17x9 with -38mm offset would clear those areas, but you'd be more likely to hit firewall/cab mount...which you've already relocated. Are you running spacers now on your 18x8 -12 offset wheels? If so, what size are they?

 

Wow, didn't realize those were REEEL bead locks at that price. Hassle saved and weight per wheel may steer me that direction. We could be twins!!

 

thanks.

I am running 1" Bora spacers.

 

You could have the powdercoated or painted however you like as they are raw machined, but my understanding from a conversation this past weekend is that they use a pretty soft allow and bend easily.

 

the bending would be no beuno, but im pretty set on method if I were to get some. Not that im closed to other possibilities, but of the ones ive looked at, method has my attention currently

 

So with the spacer, you have an 18x8 wheel with a -12 offset. That means cumulatively you have -37.4mm of offset. Without spacers, the 17x9 -38 wheel would be identical to yours from the mounting point inboard, but you would have an extra inch of wheel outboard, and need to clearance for that unless you already have the space for it.

 

so then I SHOULD be fine with the -38mm without the wheel spacers...would that be correct?