How to do an Alignment at Home

OP, can you tell me how adding caster via the LCA will affect camber? Trying to decide the best position for the LR UCA top nut ( in or out) to make the most caster adjustability through the LCA. I will be bringing in for alignment and don't want to deal with the tech touching the UCA. Trying to maximize clearance.

Will adding caster via the LCA cams move overall camber to negative or positive. Thank you.

 

Ok. So then there isn't a big change in camber when adjusted for max caster?

What about the other way around. If I set the top nut all the way out for positive camber, then they go to adjust caster back to 0 with the LCA cams, will that lower caster back down, or really no effect?

Just trying to wrap my head around the relationship between camber and caster and how one changes when you change another.

 

Is there a point to which you can't move the caster at all? Just lifted my Tacoma about 1.5 inches and when they did the alignment they told me they couldn't get the caster bolts to budge. Could this be because they are in a bind because of the camber? Just trying to wrap my head around the issue and how to fix it. Truck pulls to the right now.

 

Sounds like your bolts are seized.

 

If your outer tie rods aren't let out evenly (like by quite a bit), would that be a reason for my stock tire size of 265/70or75(can't remember)/16r to be rubbing on frame at full lock? Also have 2.5 inch spacer lift. Rebuilt front end this summer and had it aligned at a shop. All balljoints, control arm bushings, cvs, steering rack bush. and tie rods. I didn't notice this rubbing for a full yr&1/2 after lift installed. Only after i got it back from being aligned. Its only rubbing on pass. side

 

It is possible. The rack has a definite travel that should be equal from side to side. IF the tie rod ends are equally adjusted so that both have about the same amount of exposed thread. Shift both ends a couple of turns and you will immediately notice that the steering wheel is not centered any more, and also that the wheels will move a bit further to one side than the other, possibly causing a rub.

 

Sub'd

 

Seriously debating giving this a shot. I see good results can be had with simple tools, but is there any benefit to dedicated tools? Time savings or improved accuracy? Specifically Longacre caster/camber gauge and maybe a set of toeplates. I'd like to avoid repeated lifting/settling if possible. Tools will pay for themselves after three uses

Turn plates seem unnecessary to me, but who knows

 

It really comes down to personal preference. Some folks obsess over perfection, while others (myself included) simply want to correct serious issues that are causing undue wear. We aligned my truck the other weekend with homemade wheel braces, 2 tape measurers, and a magnetic Longacre caster/camber gauge. I was correcting a shift in my alignment after installed adjustable upper control arms.

 

It's been a year since I read this thread in it's entirety (a bunch of others too). I used this write up to align my truck after a suspension overhaul. Awesome Jason. Thanks.

One of the posters wrote about how an alignment is a type of process by which an adjustment to one factor also changes the other two factors of the work.

He mentioned a word for this type of process.

A process that naturally requires multiple passes, drafts, attempts to get the job done.

Can anyone help me find this word? I can't locate the post!

 

Well after 2 alignments with stock suspension, and 3 after lift, these dealer techs suck major balls - steering wheel never straight, positive camber at stock suspension... The laziest group of people I've ever seen. I say seen cause I have a dash cam and saw it all... pathetic whiners.

Anyway. @jberry813 awesome write up. Very clear. Just to make sure, for a 3rd gen, the longer and shorter turn of the cam bolts similar to the 2nd gen?

 

A couple things I've noticed. I've had issues with getting the steering wheel straight in some Toyotas (4runner and Tacoma), where as it's usually not an issue with most other cars and trucks I align. They usually drift to the right which causes you to tilt the wheel to the left a little to keep it straight, despite setting all the angles correctly. Also, the ideal spec for camber on the Tacoma is +.6 on the hunter machine. It wasn't until I installed UCAs, which were adjusted to give me an additional degree of caster over factory spec, along with 0 camber, that I was able to get the truck to track straight most of the time, and finally get the wheel straight.

 

So if one was to adjust both cams evenly to get max caster, the camber might not change? I got my truck aligned recently but want to go back for more caster. If I can do that and save 70 bucks that would be nice. I'd do the whole thing but it's too cold!

I've aligned plenty of straight axle vehicles but never ifs (as in I'm not some greenhorn that's going to twiddle a couple cams and hope it's close).

Lastly, is the 3rd gen the same as 2nd gen as far as cams go?

 

Great writeup @jberry813

 

Cool thanks! Maybe I'll give it a try and see what happens. Worst case I'll just have to get it aligned anyway.

 

Same here. I was able to get toe and camber good, but definitely caster more than 0.8 with stock UCA won't happen. Ordering LR UCA this week.

 

Thanks for putting this thread together.