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A/F and Boost Gauge ?'s

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by zerotimeouts, Nov 6, 2016.

  1. Nov 6, 2016 at 10:14 PM
    #1
    zerotimeouts

    zerotimeouts [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2016
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    Nor Cal
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    2011 DCSB 4.0 S/C
    Couple of questions I couldn't confirm in searching. Can anyone confirm or correct my suspicions before I start install.

    1. Gauge illumination - manual says 'headlight power wire' but I found a post suggesting that the 'TAIL' fuse in the driver kick panel may be correct one.
    Can I just insert an add-a-fuse and wire to 2 gauges into the 'Tail' fuse?

    2. Tach wire for Innovate MTX-D boost/vac. Is this something that needs to be cut behind the OBD and patched in or can I insert wire into back side of OBD to get signal? I'd rather not cut into it.
    Thanks!
     
    Biscuits likes this.
  2. Jan 7, 2017 at 10:05 AM
    #2
    FinnJ

    FinnJ Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Finland
    Vehicle:
    2007 FJ Cruiser 6M/T
    TRD SC, UCON, CNG conversion, RC 6" (lifted 4"/3" air suspension) w/FOX 2.5, 315/70R17 Duratracs, RECARO seats, etc.
    1. Yes
    2. No, there is no vacuum/boost info from the ECU, so you have to connect it manually to the manifold.

    I have a question too, how you have connected your A/F gauge lambda sonds in V6 engines? It should be mounted before catalysators and in both banks. Have you used
    • dual gauge or
    • some switch between them (lambdas) so you can choose witch bank you read or
    • just connect it to the other bank?
     
    Biscuits likes this.
  3. Jan 8, 2017 at 5:24 PM
    #3
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    Swiggity swangin' biggity bangin'
    As @FinnJ said, there is zero reason to tie into anything else. All you need is the power as you already know, ground, and run the vacuum hose to the port at the rear of the supercharger and the other end either to a pressure sensor or your gauge. The latter will depend on the boost gauge manufacturer.

    I am eventually going to a dual bank setup, but right now I'm tied into the Y collector post cats because that's where the previous owner welded a bung. When I redo my wideband set up, I'm probably going with a PLX gauge that will show both lambdas at once. I want to keep the clutter down to a minimum.

    If you're going to run a single wideband, my personal opinion is to either install it on the driver's side since for whatever reason the driver's side runs a bit leaner than the passenger side, or at the Y collector. There is a bit of distortion at the Y, but the general consensus is that it's minimal.
     
  4. Jan 8, 2017 at 6:18 PM
    #4
    zerotimeouts

    zerotimeouts [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2016
    Member:
    #198300
    Messages:
    1,427
    Nor Cal
    Vehicle:
    2011 DCSB 4.0 S/C
    Thanks, I ended up returning both the Innovate and AEM gauges since they did not fit well in my Flexpod. Others have not had issues but mine is too close to the supports for those gauges. The flanges near my cats are really rusty so the muffler shop put the bung in where he could. I think it's after the first or second cat on the passenger side. Didn't know the drivers side was leaner but I can always put it there later. I mostly want to monitor for changes that could indicate problems so where ever it is located acts as a baseline. I'm not changing fuel based on my numbers.

    Planning to order a set of Speedhuts soon.

     

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