Deeezy's Locked Sport Grocery Getter Build

I want to get the battery weight off of the driver's side fender/sheetmetal and move it to the passenger side of the bed. It's more of a preventative measure and it'll be way easier to add a second battery if I ever choose to. I ordered the battery hold down tray from Offgrid Engineering.

 

Looking to do the same but will need to seal battery from elements as I don't have a camper on the rear. Looking forward to see what you come up with!

 

I saw some covered "marine" battery boxes when I was looking for ideas. Some are cheap and some are expensive.

 

Subbing

 

The hill climb video added at the end of post #5.

 

I received the rest of the pieces to relocate the battery. I plan to install this on Sunday.

 

what the .... i didn't get no koozie

 

I finally got a chance to relocate my battery. A few pics of the process:

The battery is bolted to the bed on an Offgrid Engineering battery tray



I mounted the buss bars right where the stock battery used to be:

I cut off the stock negative battery terminal. The stock positive terminal could be used, I just had to drill the hole a little bigger to 3/8"


The 1/0 positive and negative wires are routed along the driver's side fender and across the firewall to the passenger side where it then follows the frame back to the bed.

It was a success. Starts and charges the battery just like it did before.

 

Nice, now gotta add dual battery system.

Does the Off Grid provide everything you need to do the install?

 

Not everything. He only has dual battery kits. I had to tell him exactly what I wanted and he put a custom kit together for the relocation.

 

I fastened the main wires from the bed with these wire straps. And used an electrical plastic bushing to penetrate through the bed.

 

Slick, using the existing drain hole in the bed. About how long were the cables needed to run back there?

 

I ordered 25' of 1/0. Ended up cutting off about 3-4'. I didn't want to be short.

Also, my front driver's side went up about a 1/4- 3/8". Made a difference because the weight of the battery got taken off of the front corner and added to the opposite side rear. So, I guess I'll take out some preload from the coilover to bring it back level with the passenger side.

 

Passenger side preload at 1-5/8" threads showing:



Driver's side preload at 1-5/8" threads showing:



The truck is totally level from side to side, coilover preload is pretty close to what it comes out of the box. Relocating the battery made a huge difference as the truck has absolutely no taco lean with both coilovers set with the same preload.

 

Damn! I knew the batteries are heavy, but for it to actually make that much of a difference on ride height is good to know. That relocation will also take stress of the front radiator core support.

 

I had about 3/16" more preload on the driver's side before I relocated the battery.

 

Was reading through your thread. How were you able to get 4* of caster? Everywhere I go they won't go beyond max factory specs of 2.5* Do you have a lot of camber with that much caster? Right now my 315's aren't rubbing other than the frame at full lock. Haven't stuffed them yet, a little concerned to with how little caster I have set. I'd like to get at least 3*, just not sure how much that will affect the camber.

 

I have about a half degree of pos. camber. My tires all wear nicely and the truck drives really good. At 3 degrees of caster I would be able to zero out the camber, but I like how the truck handles at 4 degrees caster. You just need to find a shop that specializes in aligning lifted trucks. It's definitely possible to get more than 2.5 caster.

 

Guess I'll just have to keep looking.

 

seen that you cut your own fenders . i know who I'll be calling to help me cut my bumper.