Decided to do my own oil change

just install the hose permanently... duh. see post 42

 

I didnt spill one single drop. So is the person who put it there a jackass or is it operator error?

 

But, did you check the dirty oil when you poured it out? That's where I found my gasket once.

 

Still jack ass after owning an Acura tls they put it in a perfect spot. But they did thing about the design when they put the filter upside down.

 

Most likely a jackass...

 

Has anyone tried to wade through 540 Rat's blog? It's dedicated entirely to motor oil engineering test data, performed by whoever 540 Rat is. His listed degrees/credentials are impressive. Anyway, I had it bookmarked at some point in the distant past and perused the thing again just a while ago. It's definitely a very intimidating length and the 'Table of Contents' should be much higher up in on the page, but the detailed and explanatory info is fantastic. Don't be tempted to skim through; he's an excellent writer and explains everything very well for the layman. It also validated my dad's choice of Mobil 1 as being one of the best oils to use in any vehicle.(For what he must have spent on all this testing, not to mention his education, I don't understand why he's publishing this on a Wordpress page. He really needs to move this to a site where he could use some hotlinks.)

I copied the Table of Contents below, and I highly suggest looking over 'Tech Article #25 - Recommended oil change interval for automobiles and motorcycles' (Use the slide bar on the right and take it down to about 1" from the bottom of the page and you'll be in the vicinity!)

BLOG TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Section 1 – Motor Oil “Wear Protection” Ranking List – which is determined by each oil’s film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance psi value, that results from being subjected to a dynamic friction test under load, at a representative operating temperature. The vast majority of the oils tested here, were tested just as they come, right out of the bottle. But, there are also some oils tested with aftermarket additives put in them. These additive tests were for informational purposes only, and are not generally recommended. Because aftermarket additives can ruin an oil’s carefully formulated original additive package, aside from what it may or may not do for its wear protection capability. It is always best to choose a good performing oil in the first place, that does not need any help.

Section 2 – Motor Oil Viscosity Selection

Section 3 – Motor Oil Thermal Breakdown Test Data

Section 4 – Motor Oil component quantity Lab Test results – includes the amount of zinc, phosphorus, detergent, acid neutralizer and more

Section 5 – Reserved for future Motor Oil Test Data

Section 6 – Detailed Motor Oil and Mechanical Tech Articles
NOTE: Some of the motor oil Articles were written before the most recently tested motor oils were added to the Wear Protection Ranking List in Section 1. The articles included are:

1. I-Beam vs H-Beam – which Connecting Rod is Best?

2. Rod Bolt Strength – what do we Really need?

3. Solid Roller Lifters – Bushings vs Needles, which is Best?

4. Camshaft Overlap vs LSA (Lobe Separation Angle)

5. Leak Down Test vs Compression Test, which is Best?

6. Can you really suck the Oil Pan dry?

7. Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) vs Static Compression Ratio (SCR)

8. 0W40 vs 5W30 vs 0W30

9. Aftermarket Zinc Additives – Do they Work?

10. Break-In Oils – Do we Really need them?

11. Can you always count on high zinc motor oil?

12. Diesel Oil – Is it the right choice for High Performance gasoline engines?

13. Do comparable zinc levels provide comparable wear protection?

14. Does Prolong Engine Treatment actually work?

15. Test Data on the newest Pennzoils made from Natural Gas

16. High Temp Motor Oil Wear Testing – Myth vs Reality

17. Do HTHS (High-Temperature/High-Shear) values provide any useful information about wear protection capability?

18. Engineering Test Data on High Mileage Motor Oils

19. Engine Dyno HP vs Chassis Dyno HP

20. Std Volume oil pumps vs High Volume oil pumps – Is there really a HP difference?

21. Points Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

22. How to choose your own Camshaft

23. Multi-viscosity motor oils are not exactly what some people think

24. Air conditioning isn’t just for cooling your vehicle

25. Recommended Oil Change Interval – For Automobiles “AND” Motorcycles

26. Failure Data from a Bushing type Solid Roller Lifter

27. Maximum Safe Redline

28. Eight 0W20 Oils Tested and Compared

29. Eliminating BMW M3/M5 Rod Bearing Failures

30. Five Lightweight Diesel Oils Tested and Compared

 

How the hell did someone spill oil all over the engine while changing the filter?? Did you unscrew it while running and wave it all around above the engine??

I suppose it DOES take a small bit of common sense to change your own oil.

 

That's insane. I'm glad I use Mobil 1 though!

 

I have changed my own oil since my truck was brand new. I sent samples to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ to get my baseline and a few times since then. Most recently a few days ago at my 30k change to see where I'm at. Waiting on that report.

My first change had high numbers on the aluminum, iron, copper, silicon, and sodium. It was the factory oil, with 4500 miles on it. This is what they said:
There is a lot of metal here, but don't worry. High wear is perfectly normal in new engines. The metals are simply coming from new parts wearing in, and they should improve greatly over the next 2-3 oil changes. Eventually things should look like universal averages. They show typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 5,500 miles on the oil. Silicon is from harmless factory sealers, and that should wash out too. The viscosity is in the 5W/20 range, but that won't hurt anything. There's no fuel or coolant here. Just check back to monitor progress.

My subsequent report was much better, and the one after that was damn near perfect. I change my oil every 5,000 using Mobil 1 0W30 and sent a sample in at the outset, at 10k, 20k and now at 30k.

 

Straight up dude, if you pour oil all over your engine replacing a Tacoma oil filter then its pretty obvious who the jackass is. Its certainly not the designer.

 

Your on a good schedule with monitoring your oil. I think I may start that at 10k, I'm at 8k now. I'm on the last free oil change before I switch to Mobil 1. What would one do if if they were to get a report where something is wrong?

 

If I got a bad report, I'd take it to the dealer and show them all the reports. I don't think they are required to do anything for you unless and until something goes wrong... but you could save yourself a whole lot of time, money, and heartache finding and fixing a problem early rather than after it gets catastrophic. And if it started to go bad before your warranty expires and you pointed it out... if it breaks after the warranty expires, you'd have a case for it to be covered.

 

Yeah!!!!!

My 16 year old daughter... all 5'2" 110 lbs of her, is learning the same way you did. The same way I did.

This year, while she had her learners permit, I let her drive my "baby," my 12 year old Tacoma DCSB and she helped me some of the maintenance.

This was three or four weeks ago. Just after I got her a 2010 RAV4.

With very little help from dad, she changed Engine oil (Mobile 1 0W-20), drain and refill Transfer Case and Rear Diff gear oil (Valvoline Synthetic

$30 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90), Transaxle (Valvoline Max-Life Synthetic.) Replaced all wiper blades F/R, engine air filter, cabin air filter.

Yesterday, I helped her replace rear disc brake pads, parking brake shoes, adjust parking brakes and replace the rear shocks with Bilsteins.

She passed her road test on Thursday... Mom bumped up her Tequila intake. LOL.

 

Yup. This.

A standard 16 oz empty water fits perfectly jammed up into the drain nipple.

 

Seriously? I loooove where the filter is on the 4.0. I don't do a hose. I take an old plastic bottle and hang it with a wire under the drain fitting after taking the cap off. Easy peasy.

 

Atta-girl! I did the transmission and differential fluids this past summer, and the passenger side front brakes back in October (the ol' man and his buddy did the rest so I could go make calzones for everyone... ). Everyone, guy or gal should be able to do the basics, just as you mentioned. You've done a very good thing by your girl! It's empowering, and encourages RESPONSIBILITY. So very very important these days when you read so much lately about the 'entitled' young. It pains me whenever I hear stories like a guy from work mentioned the other day, where his daughter brought him a remote because she refused to (or was to lazy to figure out how to) change the batteries in the thing. Ugh.

 

Didn't mean literal terms everyone bound to drop a little oil

 

That a good idea using a bottle

 

Been hearing a lot about this blackstone lab is $28 the minimum that u have to pay.

 

Yes. You can pay a little extra to get further tests if you're trying to extend your oil change intervals. I change mine at 5k, regardless, so I don't worry about that.