front differential question

Will it hurt to drive the truck a short distance if the cv axle(left side) has been removed. Bought the truck and the person who removed the shaft didn't have all the parts to fix it and I need to figure out what or if something is missing. Also, is there a roller/needle bearing that sits just inside the differential behind the seal that the cv axle slides into? Thanks in advance

 

You can drive it with the cv axle removed if it has manual hubs...

But if it's ADD... and the CV axles are removed... don't drive it at all.

As the ADD hub(s) are dependant of the CV axle's outer end(s) holding the hub(s) together.
And without the outer CV axles secured in the hub(s) the wheels could fall off if even rolling 6"

You could cut off the outer axle end or dismantle the outer at the CV joint
and then install that outer end into the ADD hub(s) locked on with the outer nut
and it would hold the hub together and the wheel on.

Regardless... remember to plug up the CV hole(s) in the clamshell
or the gear oil will leak out and be all over the place.
And that gear lube stinks and will be a tacky mess to clean up.

If yer not in understanding of what I just typed...

Don't drive it... period.

 

Thanks for the reply, I won't be driving it. Will have to put it on my trailer. My biggest concern is the needle bearing question I had because I found pieces of the inner race and a couple of needles laying just inside the diff behind the seal

 

You may be able to risk driving it up onto a trailer...
But I wouldn't drive it any futher then that.

If the wheel did fall off... be prepared to winch it onto the trailer.
Or possibly a come-along could get it loaded onto the trailer.

If the needle bearing failed and has come apart...
it likely has permanently damaged the race.

So the hub's race will need be pressed out and replaced
along with installing the new bearing.

You'll need remove the hub and take that to a professional
for the press work and hub - spindle inspection.

Tho' I'm not sure exactly what yer asking regarding that failure.

 

I'm just wandering if the bearing in question sits just behind the outer seal of the differential case and the inner section of spines that the cv axle meshes with

 

Yer saying the needle bearing in the clamshell (differential housing) is what has failed ?
Yes the needle bearing resides behind the seal.

If the needle bearing in the clamshell has failed...
the whole front differential will need be removed
in order to repair and replace those components.

Yer better off changing out the whole Fr. clamshell
with a salvaged unit or maybe a rebult one from ECGS.

the front is 7.5

ie: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-157180-tacoma-4runner-7-5-reverse-ifs-clamshell.html

 

Thanks, been a great help and know where to start after while

 

Was just looking at my pdf FSM 2001 - 2004

And from what I see the clamshell bearings are semi-exposed (caged) ball bearings.
The oil seal is still positiioned outside of the bearing...
and the ball bearing is retained by a large C clip.
tho' once that's removed... the bearing still needs be pressed(pulled) out.
The FSM shows using an SST tool for doing that work.

I'm not really sure how the the clamshell race is removed.
But it likely entails disassembly of the clamshell halves.

I've never had mine disassembled to that point
so maybe someone else will chime in !?

But you mentioned finding remnants of needle type bearing parts
behind the oil seal of the clamshell ?
or were those found in the outer hub/spindle ?

I think the hub/spindle bearings are a needle type bearing.
But the outer bearings in the clamshell are a caged ballbearings.

As far as the spindle's race...
It may be the spindle hub itself is the race...
and if that seat were damaged...
the whole spindle assembly needs be replaced ?

again... maybe someone else will chime in !?

I have a crappy pdf FSM that is near impossible
to comprehend and read thru.
And I have no way of linking that to you.
Even if I could... it would be extremely confusing to decipher.

But I would suggest you obtain an FSM (factory service manual)
so you can follow that as you attempt any repairs.

-------------

I just looked again at another FSM instruction
and it has needle bearings on both sides of the differential carrier.
Possibly those are what you are finding at the clamshell ?

If so... the whole diff assembly will need be removed
and the clamshell disassembled.

So yer better off purchasing a salvaged unit...
or getting a rebuilt clamshell from ECGS.

Would seem like there may be some serious issues with yours
if the carrier's needle bearings are failing.

 

You should be fine moving it around the driveway, not the highway.
It "sounds" like the issue is the not uncommon excessive play in the needle bearing on the driver side of the diff. The CV spins in this bearing when in 2wd (ADD only). The pass side is under far less stress because it only supports the little ADD stub shaft not the whole CV. These bearings are a loose fit from the factory and can develop a vibration when worn a bit. Frequently this slop manifests itself into a vibration after a lift. It typically goes away in 4wd because the bearing is no longer turning.

This is common enough for ECGS to have come up with an upgraded bearing. Actually it's a bushing to replace the needle bearing, allowing tighter clearance. It is a relatively easy job and is done with the diff in the truck. It's wise to replace the diff seal at the same time. The experienced hand will need around 1-1.5 hour and a small 2-3 jaw puller or a tool ECGS will be happy to sell you. Most folks find the ECGS tool needs a little grinding to function harmoniously as do the tips of the typical jaw puller. At one time there was a thread with folks passing an ECGS tool around. This job is about half an hour longer than r&r of a CV and is a "once and done" sort of thing.

More here
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-14472912-toyota-7-5-clamshell-bushingeliminates-needle-bearing.html

 

Thanks for the help Dirty Pool. I was hoping I wasn't going to have to pull the whole thing but was prepared to. I'm assuming it's better to order the parts from ECGS since they have an upgraded bearing but what do I tell them I'm looking for, most places don't know there is a needle bearing there.