Steering Problems

Well, Idk what else to suggest. Someone else might chime in. Did you talk to them prior to the alignment and explain the issue? They should've looked into it. Otherwise maybe it is in fact your rack or pump. Idk. Again I'd take it Toyota (or reputable shop) and see if they can diagnose it. Before you pour any big money into it.

I'd still check your lower ball joints. Maybe go as as far as unbolting and breaking them loose, reinstall and retorque. Easy check. Or just replace while you're at it. Probably the cheapest thing to replace if youre gonna start throwing money at it. Unless you go oem, but still.

 

easy way to tell whether the issue is in the steering column or S. rack...
is to disconnect the steering shaft down by the rag joint.

Check the steering by see sawing the steering wheel L to R
But don't let the S wheel turn fully or you may fubar the spiral cable thingy.
It's important not to lose sight of S wheel's center... so don't let that happen

Important to note if/when changing S. racks...

If steering wheel shaft is disconnected from the rack...
I'll use a belt or rope and tie off the steering wheel near to center... (tires straight)
to ensure the S. wheel/spiral cable doesn't accidentally get bumped and lose their centering.

It's critical that the spiral cable remains centered in relation to the S wheel's travel.
As the spiral cable can only travel so far in either direction ( when turning L or R ).
If the S.wheel shaft turns too far when disconnect from the S. rack...
it could snap the spiral cable wiring. and that'd be bad.


If no restriction is found in the steering wheel/column
then it's likely a problem with the S. rack /or pump system.

1st gen Tacoma's use ATF for the power steering fluid.
ATF holds up to higher temps then most PS fluids.

If someone topped it off with the wrong PS fluid.
that could create some issues and even cause some congealing.

The later could clog up the PS pump and starve the S. rack.
And usually the S. rack becomes rather hot if this occurs.

How hot does the S. rack become after the steering efforts ?
Should be fairly warm... but not too hot to touch.

I've see where some folk add a body lift...
and re-install the rag joint assembly incorrectlty
and this can cause steering bind issues.

But a body lift was not mentioned here.

Even so... I'd make sure that the rag joint is sitting flat.
And is not worn, loose or damaged.

 

Yeah I told them how it was acting and let them drive it. They said it looked like oil was leaking from the rack but it isn't, the oil is running over from my leaking valve covers, I made sure of this when I replaced the mounting bushings two weeks ago. The alignment wasn't even bad, the toe just needed a little adjusting. I wish they would've showed me what it looked like before they charged me $80 do barely move anything. The pump made a noise today when I took it to the shop but I didn't give it time to warm up and it didn't make noise but for a second. I'll try the lbjs tomorrow evening if I have time.

 

I'll try that but could it be the joint under the truck instead of the rack or pump?

 

...doubt it

probably nothing wrong with your steering column or the shaft's universal joint(s)
As those would generally become looser (sloppy) when excessively worn.
And are less likely to create the bind you describe.

more likely the fault lay in your truck's S. rack or PS pump.

Do you have tilt steering... or the std fixed position steering wheel/column ?

Badly worn ball joints could also be culprit and increase a feeling of binding in the steering.

Does the bind become less noticeable...
if you jack the tires up off the ground and then turn the steering wheel ?

 

I don't know, read this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/steering-problem.85425/#post-13539005
I guess they are talking about the joint under the truck above the rack?
I have tilt
Ball joints shouldn't be worn out, replaced one earlier this year
I haven't tried steering while it's jacked up but it should be easier just because of the weight

 

Jack up the front end so the tires are just off the ground. You want to load off the steering. Set your stand under the lower a's so the suspension is under load. Now try the steering wheel and see if it is different. Then try it with the suspension extended. Put the stands under the frame, suspension extended. Anything fell different?????

 

I will try tomorrow, I haven't had time to mess with it today. Just curious as to where you are going with this though

 

If you don't feel anything different with the wheels off the ground, ride height or extended, then you trouble would be before the suspension. Start going backwards. Start checking the rack all the way to the joint in the tilt column. Make sure you pump belt is good and tight. If you try to turn the wheel all the way and force it, the pump should grunt.

I kind of think you have a bad rack but check all the easy things first.

 

I wish I had a friend with a first gen so I could try another rack because that's going to be the last thing I change and it will probably be the problem haha

 

Well today I took out the intermediate steering shaft and took apart some of the rack. I still don't know what the problem is and I was a spline off when putting it back together so now my wheel isn't centered. You can turn the wheel about 180 degrees before the wheels begin to turn much and the steering is still super stiff if anyone has any ideas. I'm probably going to put new lbjs on tomorrow for the fun of it but I don't really think that's the problem.

 

You need to re center your wheel. Or you risk damaging your spiral cable, which would be bad.

 

I am today when I put the ball joints on. I didn't feel like getting back under the truck after a couple hours messing with it and not finding out anything. There is a place where the driver's side lbj has rubbed the back of the brake plate and it is closer to the wheel and a little lower than the other side. Could it cause stiff steering and the wheel not to come back to center. If not then I guess I'm going to have to get a rack...

 

Put on the lower ball joints and it didn't change anything except mess up my new alignment and cause the tires to rub so bad I can hardly turn it. Also, the camber will go from way too positive to way too negative. Hopefully another alignment will cure that. I guess all that's left to try is a rack...

 

180 degrees is too much. 10 degrees is too much. My truck will begin to turn if I turn the steering wheel more than about 2 or 3 degrees. Maybe your rack guide is worn or you need a new rack??

 

The wheels will move at the slightest touch, but it seems like they turn all at once though. The guide looked fine, but I may replace it anyway. I really don't want to give that much money for a rack. I have done everything to avoid it.