CB specifics

I see you at the bottom of the page
Didnt see it before that ^ though

 

Sure does.... Thanks!

What is a good quality cable?

 

LMAO!!! Hey Bryan!!!

Listening to Beastie Boys "Sabotage", LOL!!!

My usual "rule of thumb" when purchasing, is don't go for the cheapest or the most expensive as usually the mid-price range products will work just fine. So, with that said, for approx 18-20ft of decent RG8X coax, I would expect to pay about $15-20 or thereabouts. I honestly wouldn't really go any cheaper because you will definitely start to notice the cheapness in the cable itself... forget about what the connector ends look like at that point, LOL!!! You start paying like $8 for coax and you can REALLY see it in the cable, LOL!!!

So, hence, don't go too cheap is my point!!!

 

Ohhhhh! I can't stand it! I know you planed it!

 

btw, I think I found a cap for you that might actually work if you haven't already found one?! It fits over the actual threads of the "male end" of the CB MIC!!! I have 2x of these caps and don't know what they're from, LMAO!!! I'm a natural "hoarder" bro, LMFAO!!! If it works, then see, I KNEW it would come in handy one day, LOL!!! ROFL!!! see the pics

 

Like this?

$13 RoadPro RP-8X18 Gray 18 Foot CB Antenna Coax Cable with PL-259 Connectors

https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RP-8X18-Antenna-PL-259-Connectors/dp/B001JSY8CI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481167249&sr=8-1&keywords=rg-8x+18'+cb+coaxial

 

Sorry bro for the late reply, that cable looks pretty good from what I can tell. AND, that is about what I would expect for price as well, just like I was saying. There are cables that you can get for almost half that and it's just KRAP!!! So, yeah, I would go for it if I were you.

Now, the question is, how are you going to be routing the cable? Are you going from the inside of your cab (I'm pretty sure that's the case) to the back of your bed? If you are going to be doing that, then I can pretty much damn well guarantee you that you will have to cutoff the one end of the cable so that you can fit it through the "weather grommett" or whatever the hell it is called?! It should be underneath your driver seat under the rug, in your case based off of what I'm seeing... you have a 2nd gen, correct??? Then, you or someone will have to recrimp a

$43 PL259 USA Made PL-259 Improved Double Shielded RG-58u for FireStik Antenna K-8A 18-Foot Single CB/Ham Coax Cable

PL259 connector back on, which I know how to do so there are no problems for me, but we are talking about you here. I don't know how you plan on routing the cable?

 

When I did my install, I cut off the cab side of the cable. That way the factory end still has all the waterproofing installed. The other thing that I would mention is that RG8x isn't the easiest thing to solder. It has a mylar foil that provides additional shielding above and beyond the standard wire braid. If you cut off the factory connector, you won't get something equivalent back on.

 

Do to the way my truck is setup, I have mine on the passenger side. There's a drain plug under the front seat, that is about 1.25". I pull it out and drilled a smaller hole than the cable in the middle. Then, spilt from the hole to one side. Ran the cable through into the cab. Then, reinstalled the plug and sealed the cab side with silicone. Then, taped down the coax to keep in from moving while the silicone to set. Been that way for about a year, no problems.

 

Thanks! That's exactly what I intend on doing, as I have no intention of cutting the co-ax. I have already been through the passenger floor wire grommet once with my Pop n Lock wires, so a little more silicone won't hurt.

 

LOL, my dumba$$ did the opposite, LMAO!!! That thought never even occurred to me???!!!But, the type of heat shrink tubing that I have has a "glue", if you will, on the inside, so it is protected quite well. You can sorta see the heat shrink tubing just under the re-crimped connector in the second pic below.

I MOST DEFINITELY AGREE with the soldering comment!!! I had to solder some RG8x cable to a connector for a project I'm working on and man was it a MAJOR PITA!!! LOL!!! So, yeah, if you have to solder it, it is NOT the easiest to work with as far as soldering goes, at least for my 20+ yrs worth of soldering experiences!!! LOL!!! I've had harder soldering jobs, but didn't expect this one to take as long as it did... I was like, W...T...F... DUDE!!! LMAO!!!

LOL!!! SMART MAN!!! ROFL!!!

ANOTHER SMART MAN!!! LOL!!! I hope all works out for you!!!

Here's my recrimped connector. I have the tools to do such a job, but most people would use it only once or twice so it wouldn't be too good of an investment for most people. But yeah, been that way for 4yrs now maybe and no issues... but again, I have the tools/resources as most people really don't. Plus, to start, as always, the tools tend to be a bit on the pricey side of things, LOL!!!

 

@WileECoyote

Is it better to have a co-ax with the ground wire? I thought that the bracket bolted to the metal bedsides is the ground.



... and if you hit it with a blast of Rust Check or Krown rust proofing spray it won't ever rust.

 

You're correct about that, but I wanted to ensure a GOOD SOLID GND connection. I've done ohm readings and got the same results, so, to answer your question a bit more direct, no you really don't have to do it... "I" just wanted to have it that way is all.

Again though, just make sure that 1/2 or more of your actual antenna is above any "structure". If it is a tunable antenna, which most are these days (i.e. with the tunable "lug bolt" that is built within the antenna itself), then you can correct your SWR readings to accommodate for that. BUT, you do NOT want a good majority of your antenna being "blocked" because even a tunable isn't going to help out all that much, if at all!!! Your SWR readings are going to be quite HIGH whether it is a tunable or not!!! So, I can't express that importance enough!!!

 

Fellas, let me see if I can put my 2 cents worth in on the coax issue. I'm sure others have this, but Right Channel Radios carry a Wilson coax with a removable screw on connector that allows you to only push through a roughly 1/4 inch hole (size of coax)instead of 3/4 inch with the connector on. Hope this helps.

 

Anymore I use crimp on UHF and N connectors. Solder ones are OK if you get good connectors, I would only use silver plated ones with a Teflon dielectric center. I do have a 100 Watt soldering iron for those that I solder but generally try to use crimp on types, it is easier and they hold up just as good as solder types do. Good coax is also a key and getting the right connector for it helps. Buy your stuff at some of the ham radio suppliers, RF Parts or companies like that before the install takes place.

 

My only concern with seeing this is will the bracket flex hitting and possibly cracking the glass?

Let me know how it holds up.

 

AGREED on ALL POINTS!!! That's been my personal experiences dealing with radio systems either personal or work related!!!

 

Has anyone ever had issues with going through car washes with CB mounts? I have a

$44 Hustler QD-2 Antenna Quick Disconnect - Stainless Steel!

hustler quick disconnect and the C4 bracket. I'm just concerned that it might snag or something. Am I being paranoid?

 

I dont think your being paranoid. Those car wash machines will destroy everything including your paint. They are notorious for breaking windshield wipers so I'd think an antenna sticking straight up wouldn't stand a chance. With that said I never HAVE to wash my truck, I GET to!!