Mobtown Offroad 3rd Gen Toyota Tacoma Skid Plates

Haha, crap. I forgot to reply.

I don't see these fitting because your lift means all new front cradle right? Which would completely block where the plate goes.

 

I think they just need to be longer since you drop the location where the lower control arms bolt up 6 Inches. I have an or and when I lifted it the factory ones were too short to hit the front mounts and the back ones. If you want I can send a couple of pics so you can see

 

Please do

 

I won't ever pay for powdercoat. Especially if you're going to actually use them your money is instantly gone as you have to repaint eventually. Save yourself the money and paint yourself. It only takes a few hours in total and when you do scratch them up just bring the can out and rattle off a quick touch up.

Obviously the manufactures are going to recommend it cuz it's more money for them, but from what I've seen self paint looks and does just as good of a job as powdercoat. Plus it saves a week or more of time not having to wait for them to get coated

 

Powder coat makes a great base layer for paint. I got my sliders coated, and my armor bare steel. YMMV

 

So does a can of self etching primer, and it's a lot cheaper. To each his own though. I just don't see the value in spending more money on something that will be taken off by rocks anyways. I did my sliders myself for about $20 with enough paint leftover for touch ups when needed. When I get skids I'll be going bare steel as well.

 

I did self etching primer and paint on the armor. I don't think it's quite as good as powder coat. But the Best Value judgement there is alot harder. Probably also depends how abusive you are on your armor.

 

I agree, it's not as good as powdercoat. But I do plan, and have already put my sliders to work. The powdercoat would be all gone on the bottom so it's not worth it for me. I know I'll be out wheeling and beating up my armor so my money won't be spent on powdercoat. I'd rather put that 50 bucks to something more useful like a trasharoo or save up for that RTT...

 

So the aluminum skids do not come with access to the oil filter and its put on with nylon lock nuts. So let me get this straight, after a few oil changes and having to remove these types of nuts eventually they will wear out. also now oil changes have become a royal pain in the ass. jesus christ. Nice job. Anyone in the market for brand new powder coated aluminum skids plates. Full set. Never installed.

 

I'm sorry you're unhappy with them.

On the products page on our website and on the very first post of this thread for the skid plate it states aluminum skids excluded for oil filter access. The picture for the aluminum skid plate shows no oil filter access cover. And that's really no different than the factory skid plates which also need to be removed to access the oil filter. The front plate is not heavy to drop down to change the oil and if the hang up is the nylon locking nuts wearing out over time, then how about I send you standard nuts with locking washers?

We opted to not have the cover because of a few reasons. It's a weak point and aluminum is already much weaker than steel. And the plate isn't heavy so we didn't see it being a major issue with dropping the plate to change the oil.

 

If you can't remove a 18 pound skid plate once every 5000 miles to change oil you shouldn't have skid plates to begin with. Don't bitch about mobtown for your lack of attention before ordering.

I installed a 50 pound steel plate by myself in 20 minutes by myself. It's not difficult.

 

It's clear it wasn't there, but a rightful beef they don't have it...

I say meh- get yourself an oil extractor. The filters are on top too. I haven't crawled under my truck in a decade to change the oil.

 

I realize the weight of the skid that isnt the pain in the ass. ive installed a steel bumper with a winch alone as well as sliders alone it wasn't difficult. Im saying having to replace a nylon nut after a couple of oil changes is a pain in the ass.

 

I could see that. Would you like me to send some standard nuts with locking washers?

 

Maybe I am unsure about how it connects to the transmission skid. is it still only four bolts to remove front skid and nothing has to be removed on the transmission skid to change oil? looking at the installation pdf it would appear that the transmission skid has to be partially undone to remove the front skid with the spacers.

 

. Thank you for acknowledging that those types of nuts will be degraded with every removal. If you could that would be nice. Thank you

 

On the front aluminum skid plate, to remove it you'll remove the two 1/2-13 bolts, 4 flat washers and two 1/2-13 nylon lock nuts that attach the front skid plate to the transmission skid plate. Then you'll remove the two longer metric bolts at the back of the front skid plate and then the two front factory bolts that are holding the front lip under the cross beam.

 

Please PM me an order number or last name so I can look you up to ship them. I'll send them first thing tomorrow morning.

 

ttt

 

I'll be doing sliders and would like to do skids in the next month or so, but I'm not sure which set to go with. I'd be in rocks maybe 2-4 times a year, and not pushing my luck too often when I go, but shit happens. Should I just go with the aluminum or steel?