All Pro Slider Install

Has anyone installed a set of all pro's sliders. I'm doing mine and ran into an issue with this little bracket that holds a couple of plugs.

The two existing bolt holes line up perfectly with the slider holes. But as you can see in the picture one of the square tubes interferes with the bracket. I thought no big deal. This only holds a couple wires. I'll just shift the bracket over and use one hole for it. That works but the cover doesn't fit anymore.

Or anyone with sliders other than all pro, did you run into this?

 

No, but mine are on the way. I'm watching this thread for sure.

 

Save this thread for sure. I couldn't find any instructions or others who have done this on a 2016. I'm not going to do an install thread, but I'll post a list of stuff I wish I did. As I've got a good list already.

 

@allpro any assistance here?
Thx

 

You mean you'll let me learn from some one else's mistakes other than my own ?!!

 

Really I wish you well with your install. Sincerely

 

I'm still curious how people solved there install, but I got the cover back on.

Here's what I did. I left it bolted as seen in the pic but leveled it a little more. Then cut the zip tie holding the rightmost spot. That allowed me to jam all the wires into the cover and get it bolted on. Not the best I'm sure but at least it's together.

 

So some lessons too.

Driver side:
Remove all brake line clips poking through the frame. I left mine just in case there were cut outs for them them. Way harder to remove with the sliders in place.

Both sides:
The two front most bolts use the plate welded nuts. Inside those holes is some plastic thing that you need to remove. This thing pulls out. I had to just chisel it to pieces from the outside in. On the driver side there is a big ol' wire loom that hooks to these clips too.

Two more of the plate welded nuts go in the crossmember. Make sure to insert these in the big holes before you mount the slider otherwise you can't get those in with the slider in place.

The last plate but things go a little further back where the frame hole is larger. Then the rest of the nuts are easy to figure out. I had to use locktite on some of the bolts because they didn't seem long enough so I couldn't fit the lock washers. Maybe if I would have tried harder they would have been okay.

It's easy with one person. I used a floor jack and a 2x4 and just jacked them up into place. Super easy.

I didn't have to grind any pinch welds. The farthest back bolt you have a couple options. Either mount up the sliders, mark the hole, remove the sliders, drill, reinstall. I'm just going to go grab a 90* drill extension thing. I still have to drill the four bottom holes but that's for Saturday.

They look really good i think.

If anyone has questions or whatever feel free to ask.

 

Oh and if you fluid filmed your frame prepare to hate life. I probably used 20 pairs of gloves. I still stink. And all of my tools are greasy.

 

Love your truck. Sliders look good!

 

On my 14, I put it back in a close to stock position and drove a self tapping screw into the slider plate, acceptable for me.

 

I have the HD version on my truck. The only irritating thing for me right now is it hitting against the passenger rear when going over a big bump (railroad tracks, potholes, etc). I need to trim the pinch weld an 1/8" or I can replace the factory cab mount bushings with poly units. Still need to decide how much effort I want/need to put into this. Lol

 

I thought about that too.

It's too bad the slider companies can't move that one brace to the front by an inch or two and it would fit like stock.

I looked at a few other companies sliders and they all have interference issues with that box and you have to do something similar to what I did. The braces wouldn't be evenly spaced but I don't think it would impact much that way. Or just move it forward and add another brace after it.

 

Looks good!

What did you do with that stupid box on the passenger side?

 

Honestly, I don't remember but will take a peek and snap a photo for you tomorrow.

 

So looks like that's how you are supposed to do it.

Searching a little more (I swear I searched before but was really only looking at all pro threads) I found this: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-bolt-on-sliders.366293/page-12#post-10363031

Different brand, but same issue. He fixed exactly like I did. That makes me feel a little better.

At least I got some pointers to @CERTIFIABLE for when he gets his.

 

I moved the bracket up a hole and had to dremel part of the cover to get it fit properly.

Trying to install my sliders.I would recommend a hole saw tooth bit... drilled holes through the double C channel less than 10 sec a hole. Broke 2 bits on one hole trying for 10 mins.

 

For drilling the underside bolts? I'm not looking forward to doing those.

 

I put these sliders on back in the summer. Went pretty well except for the above mentioned items. I have a DCLB.

Here is part of the email I sent to All-Pro:

Drivers side: There is a bracket holding some electrical connections bolted to the back side of the frame rail and it has two studs that go through to the outside of the frame rail and secured with 2 nuts. They are about 1/4" in diameter. Those had to be drilled out. It would be nice if those were added to the pre drilled holes.

I drilled these two holes out after the rail was mounted, but it was just a PITA because it should be pre-drilled.

Passenger side: On the outside of the frame rail there is a box secured to the frame with two studs. The holes are drilled out on the slider to get the studs into, but the slider strut that comes off of the frame (second from front, I think) is about 2-3" too close to where this box used to be. If the strut could be moved towards the back a few inches it would all bolt up perfectly. There is not a lot of slack in the harness to move the box very far. Ive got it temporarily in position for now, but I need to come up with a more permanent solution.

Its been awhile since I looked at it, but I think I just used one of the two bolts to reattach this electrical connector box. The cover needs some trimming to get it to fit. 7 months later and I havnt gotten around to doing that.

Other than these two issues, all the pre-drilled holes lined up perfectly. Drilling the holes for the countersink screws was a work out. I even had a new bit. Tough frame.

 

Top tip. Drill those underside bolts like this. Took me about 15 minutes and zero effort.