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Sound Proofing tips?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by ksjohnson09, Dec 11, 2016.

  1. Dec 11, 2016 at 7:11 AM
    #1
    ksjohnson09

    ksjohnson09 [OP] Member

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    So I had my truck warming up the other day and noticed that the sound proofing sucks even though the road noise issue was improved from the 2nd Gens. Any thoughts, suggestions, tips on sound proofing the cab?
     
  2. Dec 11, 2016 at 1:19 PM
    #2
    Riding Dirty

    Riding Dirty Sinner; saved by grace

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    Several people are using dynamat , if you wanna tear the insides out to install.
     
  3. Dec 11, 2016 at 1:20 PM
    #3
    smitty99

    smitty99 I also bought a 4Runner

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    Does your rear diff howl when driving down the freeway at 55 to 60mph if you feather the throttle? This noise will drive you crazy.
     
  4. Dec 11, 2016 at 1:22 PM
    #4
    hr206

    hr206 Well-Known Member

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    which aspect of the noise are you wanting to reduce?
     
  5. Dec 11, 2016 at 1:25 PM
    #5
    ksjohnson09

    ksjohnson09 [OP] Member

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    I would like to contain the stereo noise escaping the cab to improve sound quality.
     
  6. Dec 11, 2016 at 1:33 PM
    #6
    ABA180

    ABA180 It burns when I pee....

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    Duct tape over the passengers' mouths..especially helpful if my wife is in the truck with me
     
  7. Dec 11, 2016 at 1:35 PM
    #7
    AnthonyGen

    AnthonyGen Well-Known Member

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    I took out the seats, carpet, and panels and used Dynamat Xtreme as well as Dynaliner. I probably have 15-20 hours of time and hundreds of dollars. I was really disappointed with the results. It helped a little but not for the effort and cost. I think a lot of the noise comes through the windows and rear sliding window.
     
    boynoyce likes this.
  8. Dec 11, 2016 at 1:39 PM
    #8
    hr206

    hr206 Well-Known Member

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    So, when you have your stereo on and turned up, you don't want to hear it from the outside?

    This is happening because your doors are functioning as the enclosures for your speakers. Doors become thin metal enclosures don't really stop transmitted noise. You can reduce this to some extent by dynamatting the door skins. I've used foam speaker protectors (google: speaker foam protector boom mat) before but it'll change the mid-range sound from your speakers.
     
    ksjohnson09[OP] likes this.
  9. Dec 11, 2016 at 1:57 PM
    #9
    Duckman

    Duckman n00b Extordinaire

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    What he said... I did my Gen 2. Spent a lot of time, money and for real skin doing it.

    If you must, use RAAMAT and their closed cell foam. Then LEARN about deadening and dampening. "They" will say you need to do every thing except your steering wheel to be effective... You can get the same results by doing A LOT less. If you can fish through the stupid stuff go to DIYMA, on second thought don't.

    The Gen 3 did make good improvements on sound (I think any way). When I installed my OEM+ system (which I simply love) I did put 4-5 inches left over pieces of RAAMAT along the bottom of each door. I guess it made me feel better.

    Unless you are going full on with a aftermarket stereo system and understand set up or it's your real hobby, spend your time and money on something else.

    I think it helps your ego more than anything. And when you are done it still won't help your pee-nee size or how good your system sounds.

    JMHO
     
  10. Dec 11, 2016 at 2:37 PM
    #10
    Scarab

    Scarab Well-Known Member

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  11. Dec 14, 2016 at 6:04 PM
    #11
    AnthonyGen

    AnthonyGen Well-Known Member

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    Also, as crazy as this may sound, the stereo doesn't seem as loud after the soundproofing. The bass is definitely deeper and no rattles anywhere, but the sound almost seems muffled. I almost think the thin tin skins cause the stereo to boom more. I think I have $700 in Dynamat material and would definitely spend that money elsewhere on my truck like FN Pro TRD wheels.
     
    ManBeast likes this.
  12. Dec 14, 2016 at 6:29 PM
    #12
    billygoat

    billygoat Well-Known Member

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    Dynamat or something similar (like RAAMAT) will help if used right. Mass-loaded vinyl is the next step after Dynamat, and supposedly does a better job at blocking higher frequencies. You could also put weatherstripping on the doors to get a better seal there. The windows will always let sound in/out, however, so there will be limited gains.

    I bought Dynamat bulk packs for relatively cheap and put it EVERYWHERE on my 2nd gen, including the metal part of the door panels in addition to the kick panels, and the roof (I think most people forget to do the roof, and Dynamat here is honestly worth it just for the insulation value alone imo). I put some weatherstripping on the doors but didn't bother with the heavy vinyl because shipping is so expensive for it. I know the 2nd gens are different, but my truck is about as quiet as any luxury car now. I spent about $300 total for 18 sheets of 32" by 18", you just have to shop around.

    On a side note, were you parked in a garage or next to a wall when you heard the music from outside the truck? That always makes it sound louder because it reflects the noise instead of allowing it to disburse.
     
  13. Dec 15, 2016 at 8:57 AM
    #13
    Duckman

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    You are so right, especially with a gen2. My gen3 is much better in the roof area.

    The problem is you are fighting an environment that is not made for sound. There is a part of me that does think that putting "some" in the door panels help with dampening and is beneficial, especially for road noise, and I would only do it and on the bottom 1/3rd. Trust me if you have some of that stuff come loose higher up, cleaning that crap off your windows and the inside is a pain. To me FORGET about sealing the doors... to much work for next to nothing benefit.

    Sounds stupid and does not look really great....BUT get a dash mat...if you are that interested with sound, those help a lot.
     
  14. Dec 16, 2016 at 5:37 PM
    #14
    ksjohnson09

    ksjohnson09 [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the info. No, it was parked in the driveway and I could hear the radio from inside the house. It was probably only turned up 40%.
     
  15. Dec 16, 2016 at 8:58 PM
    #15
    CusterFan

    CusterFan Well-Known Member

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    JeremyTaco likes this.
  16. Dec 16, 2016 at 10:48 PM
    #16
    Sestemybe

    Sestemybe Member

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    I do not post much, however i read a ton on here and do a bunch of projects. I recently installed a 5 channel amp, sound processor, new speakers, and sub. To take advantage of doing this and already partially tearing apart the interior to install the stereo i decided to sound proof. After lots of research i concluded that a three layer approach would work the best. A first layer of 80mil metal backed Butyl(dynamat) to reduce vibrations and deaden the panels, a second decoupling layer of closed cell foam (1/8 inch ensolite peal and stick foam, it also is a temperature insulation barrier so truck cools and heats quicker) to isolate the panels from the real magic. The third and final layer i used was mass loaded vinyl to block the noise that made it through. My breakdown for total materials was around $500, time put into it was around 30 hours (i removed my ENTIRE interior in sections to complete the project). I have all three layers in the doors, on the front firewall, floor, roof, and rear wall, all underneath the factory carpeting. Basically every panel and space that i could get access to has been treated, the only places not treated are the ones you look through. After all that money any time i would guess i have a 40% reduction in sound over stock. It is noticeably quieter than stock. However i don't know if personally the $500 in materials and 30 ish hours was worth it or if i would do it again given the chance, not to mention i added 180 pounds permanently to the truck. If i could go back i think i would have put it towards a set of plate bumpers.
     
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  17. May 7, 2018 at 11:36 PM
    #17
    Tharris242

    Tharris242 Technically

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    How far up the firewall are we talking? Did you remove the dash and everything under it or just covered what you could get to from underneath? Or?

    I'm currently doing the floor and what I can (not so) easily reach up the firewall... i.e. about as high as your toes normally go.

    I really want to remove the dash and everything entirely... it all goes in so easy at the factory; but, I know it's not meant to come out easily. There's obviously no way to easily slide out the A/C plumbing.
     
  18. May 9, 2018 at 12:36 AM
    #18
    Sestemybe

    Sestemybe Member

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    I had the entire interior out of my truck except for the AC/Heater box, back dash frame, parts of the steering column, air bag assemblies, etc. I am talking seats, panels, dash, trimming, moulding, center console, dropping the head liner. It was a 30 hour job for someone who had an idea on what to do. Then again I did take the time to foam strip all contacting areas on panels when reassembling to completely eliminate rattling.
     
  19. May 9, 2018 at 12:38 AM
    #19
    Sestemybe

    Sestemybe Member

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    Don’t get me wrong, I am so glad that I did it. I was just saying that in retrospect I don’t know if I would do it again for the time any money involved versus the outcome. It is quite as hell, and sounds amazing, but that was a TON of time and money to get to that level.
     
  20. May 9, 2018 at 2:00 PM
    #20
    Tharris242

    Tharris242 Technically

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    Okay, I didn't really get that impression from your earlier posts of "40%" quieter and "noticeably" quieter. Just one more question / clarification: what percentage of the firewall do you think you treated?

    One thing I'll advise to anyone who is considering this: if you are going to do it, you have to do EVERYTHING. You won't be happy with just doors or just whatever. It's like, if you drive with 4 windows down on the highway... it's going to be loud. If you close one window is it quiet? No. If you close 2? No. 3? No. You have to close all of them.
     

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