Audiophile Build ( A build For Better Quality)

So iv been waiting over 7 months for my truck and it's finally here. I currently have a vehicle to drove so I'm on no rush to do this build. I want to do it once. And properly. If its not quality I don't want it. I have had bass and that's not what I'm going for. This is a pure sq build and I hope to inspire the rest of you showing that you can make your dream audio build come true.
Equipment :
Stock head unit
Krx3 kit (front doors)
Krx3 6.5woofers (rear doors)
Audison bit one processor
Audison VRX 4.300 rear doors +(subwoofers)(update)
Audison VRX 4.300 (doors)

UPDATE this is going to be a 8 channel full active


I will post up pics and updates on everything. I'm really excited for this build and still haven't selected sub woofers yet. They will be decided on after I build the box.
Any questions just ask and if I have an answer I will gladly help. Enjoy TW

 

OK I'm ready!

 

first, that's a lot of thousands of dollars of trust in one company to provide the sound you want. Focal is not the end all of "quality".

also, why the DSP and not full active? you can't time align a 3 way system when it's running on only 2 channels and relying on passive XO. seems like a large waste of money or maybe i'm not seeing something.

 

My friend
I will be running a full active with time alignment from the bit one. As well the amp that I am using is a 4 channel vrx 4.300 so it's all good. Hopefully that clears things up for you. I look forward to posting pics by Tom as I'll be taking some interior out and looking for fitment and location of speakers.

 

full active means that each driver has it's own powered and DSP'd channel.

you are purchasing a 3 way component set. that means you would need 3 pairs of amplified channels [a 6 channel amp] for just the front stage.

using the passive XO that comes with that Focal set inhibits most of the features of that Bit One, making it a waste of money.

 

Thanks for the helpful information. I was under the impression I was going full active but I could be going passive. Going to have to double check with my sound guy who's on board with me and this project.

 

sounds like your sound guy might be making a few extra bucks... If you use passive crossovers the bit one is pointless, if you don't the bit one is a necessity. Should run the 4 channel on the fronts alone then get another 4 channel to run rears and bridged for sub. Or run a 5 channel fronts and sub with a smaller 2 channel for rears, that's what I do on mine. I will definitely be watching to see how this goes.

 

@Zac of all trades

 

Personally I don't run rear speakers I don't like the sound coming from behind me. It's personal preference and it is very common among those who compete in SQ competitions.

I understand some like to have them if they have passengers riding in the rear seats often.

I would suggest leaving the rears stock. Putting that rear speaker money towards buying a 6 channel amp in place of the 4 channel, so you can run active on the three way fronts.

You can leave the rear speakers hooked up to the factory radio and fade them back in if you have passengers in the rear seats.

Do you know how your installer plans on mounting the speakers?

All of this installed and tuned correctly should sound awesome!

 

No rear doors for me neither.

 

Or you can do as the JBL system does and just run a midrange speaker back there. I was talking to Marv once told me about a conversation that he had from the main engineer at JBL. He explained it's just for rear fill but by keeping the highs out of it it keeps the direction the sound is coming from towards the front. I myself have co-axles for the rear as my kids are back there and we are always playing movies for them.

 

Im sure you will love the system when you are done!

 

Nice set up!

Truth...

So this guy has some good suggestions, however, that is what he would do. Please do what will make you happy, you are the one that has to drive it....

With all that being said...

There are alot of people that do not run speakers in the rear door. They actually take them out, this is because the people in the front do not hear the speakers in the rear. If you fade all your sound to the rear doors then you will hear it. But as soon as you fade it back you no longer hear it. So with this logic it is safe to save some money and not buy rear door speakers... I bought new speakers for all the doors also, but now that i think back i wish i didnt. I could have saved the money and effort of installing them.

Running full active....

If you decide to go with just the front speakers then that give you the option or setting up a front stage for the driver, which you were talking about timing so i imagine you already have that in mind. You would only need a 4 channel amp, some 6.5" or 6x9 speakers, and some tweeters. You would not be using any passive crossovers. I personally have 6x9s to help fill in some mid bass. You could also use a 5 channel amp if you are powering a single sub. I find that for multiple subs i like to have separate amps for subs and speakers. But that is just my personal choice. It is space saving to have a 5 channel amp...

Speaker brand/quality...

There are hundreds of speaker brands, it sounds like you are for a SQL build and not a SPL build so you should look for a speaker with a paper cone. Research has shown that a paper cone has the best "natural" sound. I have hybrid audio speakers and i really like them, they also use a waterproof paper cone that sounds amazing. They also have over 130 world sound competition championships, I think that speaks for itself...

If you want to check out my build there is a link to it in my signature. I have posted a couple videos from when i first got it installed and a couple after playing with the tuning. The tuning process is still in progress, but that is because i am always trying to tweak something on my DSP.

 

^^good info @Zac of all trades

Just so there isn't confusion for the OP and @SlowComa666 stated it earlier. If your going to run active you need a channel of amplification per speaker. So for the 3 way component that he listed in the original post will be 6 total speakers with 6 channels of amplification needed. So his 4 channel listed wouldn't work for an active set up on that component set. If you run all the speakers listed in your original post you would need at least 9 channels if you want all the speakers amplified.

Also expanding on my question in my first post about installation. This will determine what speakers you can or will want to use. Any 3-way will require some kind of custom install as both the tweeter and midrange will not fit in the dash(I think thats where 3rd gen "tweeters" are) and the in the dash might not be ideal speaker placement anyways.

I would also suggest to the OP to spend some time doing his own research on active systems for his own benefit, if he hasn't already. It sounds like you have a friend helping with the install and selection of components Which is great that you have someone to share a common interest with, but what works for one person doesn't always mean it works for another.I've always been one to research something thoroughly even if I am having someone else do the work for my own curiosity. I have no doubt that the Focal and Audison can deliver exactly what the OP is looking for but I would suggest he at least consider other options as there are some really good value speakers, amps, and DSPs out there(this does not mean inexpensive or poor quality, just great quality for the money). In this case $$$ doesn't equal the best or top quality. One of the advantages of running active is that your not restricted in what speakers you run. You can run brand A midbass, brand B midrange, and brand C tweeter.

I would suggest reading build threads here on TW to see options that work with our trucks and spend some time over at DIYMA.com(car audio forum geared toward SQ) to read more on active set ups. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on this site too so ask away.

 

I'm intrigued...

 

Truthfully using the DSP you will still get an amazing sound quality. Just be sure to use an appropriate speaker wire (full copper) and hopefully the amp you are getting will be tuneable. You will get a ton of audiophile mumbo jumbo on here but it is very difficult while driving to feel the very intricate sound variations. I have the floors, doors and roof Dynamatted and Ensolite foamed, and I can tell you that at speed you will be hard pressed to be able to experience the full capability of your system. You have some bad ass components and you will love the shit out of it when it is installed. If you have the time and funds, I would totally recommend sound deadening. Good luck!

 

Seeing about speaker fitment today removed all panels and wrapped everything to protect from scratches here's a few pics of what the space is looking like. But Will continue tom and pull the focals out of the box to have a good understanding of what I need for materials. Then hopefully material run!

 

Goodnight baby

 

Great set up! Nice and clean. I have all the equipment already which is displayed in the opening on this thread. Check it out!