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97, 2.4L, Base Cab, 150K, Cylinder 2 Misfire ???

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by HairBear, Dec 20, 2016.

  1. Dec 21, 2016 at 11:48 AM
    #21
    vasinvictor

    vasinvictor Junkie

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    So then maybe just an injector...
     
    HairBear[OP] likes this.
  2. Dec 21, 2016 at 12:09 PM
    #22
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    Replace plug wires. Or swap two around to see if misfire code moves to another cylinder. Same thing happened to me around the same miles. Resistance of wires might still read within spec even though wire is bad.

    Valves shouldn't be out of spec after just 150k miles. Toyota engineering was good with the shim over buckets. If you ever take the valve cover off check valve clearances just to be safe.
     
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  3. Dec 21, 2016 at 2:15 PM
    #23
    Pumpman

    Pumpman Well-Known Member

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    The valve clearence was out on my truck at 150,000 burnt 2 valves original owner installed reman head but never checked clearences on exhaust side and now im dealing with that @ 177,000 miles
     
  4. Dec 21, 2016 at 2:16 PM
    #24
    Pumpman

    Pumpman Well-Known Member

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    Check wires or replace if you never have then check coils
     
  5. Dec 21, 2016 at 6:21 PM
    #25
    HairBear

    HairBear [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I picked, a cap, rotor and wires tonight and will install in the morning. I hope to have this truck for awhile so it seemd a good idea. I figure the coil is good, it works for the other cylinders, so IF it is, as I suspect, ignition, it has to be one of the three parts I bought. I plan to do a more thorough compression test as well. I checked it today, in an expedient fashion, during my lunch break, out in front of the Autozone. I pulled the wire terminal on the distributor, screwed the gauge in #2 and cranked for 3 or 4 revs. Best I could do in the time I had. I had a gasket set and head bolts ready to order from RockAuto, but seeing 170 lb. on the gauge changed my mind. Seeing the tiny yellow spark helped confirm what the compression gauge was saying. I'll let you know for sure tomorrow.
     
  6. Dec 21, 2016 at 6:54 PM
    #26
    Pumpman

    Pumpman Well-Known Member

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    Thats good news , on the coils i was thinking of mine its a 98 no distributor 4 seperate coils with crank sensor wasnt thinking distributor ,anyway best of luck bro ,still probably wouldnt hurt if ya had some spare time to check cam clearences just for piece of mind if ya keep the valves in good shape and regular maintenance i cant see why these engines cant do 1/2 million miles or more we had one at work that everyone beat on and it had 434,000 before the frame got to bad to patch anymore
     
  7. Dec 22, 2016 at 8:10 AM
    #27
    HairBear

    HairBear [OP] Well-Known Member

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    upload_2016-12-22_11-2-15.jpg

    Compression test results ran from 165 to 175 throughout all 4. So, I swapped out rotor,cap, and wires. You can see that the rotor was rusted and pitted pretty badly. The contact points in the cap were glazed and pitted as well. However, it is now sputtering/missing , idle speed is very low/almost dies, and it is throwing a code for misfire in cylinder 2 still yet. Injectors? How do I prove or disprove a bad injector?
     
  8. Dec 22, 2016 at 8:18 AM
    #28
    HairBear

    HairBear [OP] Well-Known Member

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    upload_2016-12-22_11-16-59.jpg

    Any advice on purchasing injectors? Should that be the case.
     
  9. Dec 22, 2016 at 8:23 AM
    #29
    Pumpman

    Pumpman Well-Known Member

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    Have you tried seafoam yet ,id trythat before injectors, never believed in it till i tryed it it does work
     
  10. Dec 22, 2016 at 8:27 AM
    #30
    HairBear

    HairBear [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just.. found out about seafoam. I read a DIY thread here in 1st gen forum. People say it works. I am going to do a bit of research before I try anything.
     
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  11. Dec 22, 2016 at 8:48 AM
    #31
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Check plugs real good for possible crack. maybe swap pugs to a differant cylinder and see if misfire moves.
     
  12. Dec 22, 2016 at 9:55 AM
    #32
    HairBear

    HairBear [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I replaced the plugs about a week ago, reset the diagnostic, and the code returned. Just now I listened to the injectors with a long handled screwdriver and #2 sounds different than #1 and #4, #3 is too hard to reach. #2 on the ohm meter shows an Open Line, #1 showed 15.8 ohms. I think I have found the culprit in the #2 injector.
     
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  13. Dec 22, 2016 at 10:05 AM
    #33
    Pumpman

    Pumpman Well-Known Member

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    Awesome
     
  14. Dec 22, 2016 at 10:39 AM
    #34
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    I was going to say you could swap the injectors around to see if the misfire changes cylinder, but if the ohms reading confirms it's bad I guess you can just replace. Make sure the new injector comes with the o-ring, grommet and insulator. You may want to put those new rubber parts on the other injectors while you're at it too. You can probably reuse them but the repair manual will say they are non-reusable.
     
  15. Dec 22, 2016 at 7:07 PM
    #35
    HairBear

    HairBear [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I installed a new injector on #2 and it runs like a scalded dog. Smooth and strong. At 118.00 ea. with the holiday upon us it is the best I can do at the moment. It is my only ride. I plan to get 3 more soon and to do it by the book. It came with new O ring and nothing else. I was able to put it in without removing the air duct and a bit of fenigeling.

    Many thanks to all contributors!

    Merry christmas to all and to all a good night.
     
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  16. Dec 22, 2016 at 7:10 PM
    #36
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    That is AWESOME! Right on, Man
     
  17. Dec 22, 2016 at 7:18 PM
    #37
    Pumpman

    Pumpman Well-Known Member

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    Good stuff have a great Christmas everyone
     

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