3rd Gen Remote Start Using OEM Remote

@gpb references tapping into the SLC and PTS wires at the C29 connector instead of taking the steering column apart. I think this is what is in the DEI instructions as well. Is there a particular reason you tap those wires behind the steering column instead?

From gpb's pictures:

 

Actually, the DEI instructions have you go to the SLC in the steering wheel housing as well as go to the connector behind the PTS button.

In a discussion with @PJnc284 while I was verifying all the DEI connections against the FSM, we noticed the FSM referenced wiring harness test procedures both for the PTS and SLC connectors that showed the wires landed on the C29 connector at the Smart Key ECU.

I dug into my truck to get to the SLC and PTS connectors and performed the harness test procedure to validate that they're the same. I figured that could make my own install that much cleaner and save other folks a bit of digging when doing their own installs.

Here are the bits from the FSM: (S45 is the SLC connector, E28 is the PTS connector)

 

If I remember correctly, these are the styles we received an email on



But do these styles work better

 

Generally speaking T-Taps work better but if I *had* to use a vampire tap I'd use Posi-Taps. The red T-taps are 18-22ga and I believe you're getting into 24ga on the truck wiring. At least the Posi-taps are available for 24-26ga.

Far better to solder the connections in my opinion, though. Super easy to practice on scrap wire until you're comfortable and confident.

 

I agree completely that solder is the best way to go. I am confident with my soldering skills, just not sure I'm confident with it in confined spaces and or where I have to remove the jacket in the middle of a wire. Plus I do want the ability to return it back to stock later if necessary

 

I read on another post from user Goochwarmer and he said this "I had a remote start installed and it does shut off when the door is opened, not unlocked just opened. If it is opened and you didn't shut it down it won't start right away (it cranks for 20 seconds or so before it starts like it's starving) so I let it sit for a few and restarted it push button style. I asked the installer (not dealership) and he told me it was a safety but didn't know if he could override it. It's kind of a PIA..."

Is this the case with this remote start that there would be a lag time from when the truck shuts down after opening the door to when it will start again by pressing the start button?

 

No lag that I've noticed.

 

Thanks. after reading a few more pages, others have chimed in and stated they are having no issues, but I wanted to confirm with this kit since a lot of them in the other post are referring to the viper system

 

Read his follow up post...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-starts-installed.460568/page-8#post-13990423

 

Just did. Finally completed that whole thread

 

I got the voodoo kit in the mail today. I don't feel like it was worth the extra $60. Puling the pins is probably time consuming, but not $60 worth of time. That and the wire loom are really the only difference from just sourcing your own materials and doing it yourself. The wires all hookup the same way. The additional printed instructions were barely legible so I just used the diagram from @gpb thread here.

So if I had to do it over again, I would just buy the pre-flashed

$59 DBALL2 Databus All Combo Bypass Module

DBALL2 (~$30) from ebay and do the rest myself. If I really wanted to customize the run time or something else I would buy the flash tool (~$30). All that and it would still be under the voodoo kit price of $140 (or the rumored $170).

But I figured out why it costs so much:




Sorry, I know this will be taken harshly but I just don't see the value here and I'm just calling it like it is. I think the original intent of your idea was noble and intended for the good of the members here, but when you package it up as a "product" and charge an extra $90 you are not doing anyone a service. Y'all can hate me if you want, but hopefully this will save others some money.

 

Things you forgot

• Labor to flash
• Labor to loom the harness
• Vendor Fees for this site which in turn supports the site so we can all use it
• Cost of KB Voodoo site, customer service and what not
• Time to box everything up
• All the time this took out of @nickj718 who made it possible to purchase and source the parts if you wanna be cheap

Had it not been for this thread and the 3 weeks worth of @nickj718 time spent on this no one would have it. This technology has been available since the truck came out and no one mentioned it till a year later. Maybe keep negativity to yourself and take it for what it is.

 

I appreciate an honest assessment. It is with this testimony that one can accurately gauge if the product is worth the cost. If the product is not reasonable in terms of cost, then ultimately the product will fail or another business will produce a better/cheaper alternative...Hello free market, right?
No entity should expect censure from a customer's review.

 

Labor to flash (included in the $30 for the device on ebay)

• Labor to loom the harness (2 minutes, again, you can do that yourself)

• Vendor Fees for this site which in turn supports the site so we can all use it (this is a business expense, not something the customer gains from)

• Cost of KB Voodoo site, customer service and what not (this is a business expense, not something the customer gains from)

• Time to box everything up (this is a business expense, not something the customer gains from)

• All the time this took out of @nickj718 who made it possible to purchase and source the parts if you wanna be cheap (these parts were always available, there are threads from 2015 with links to them).

I think it's cute that you want to try to defend them. But there is no argument here. You can either pay for convenience or save money by doing it yourself.

 

Nick and I have a ton of time and effort invested in putting these kits together, and we don't work for free (as most people don't).

We put together a nice kit at a very nice price. If you didn't like it, why did you buy it?

Anyway, thanks for your business!!

The kit can be purchased here: http://www.kbvoodoo.com/

 

Like most, I thought it was going to be worth the extra $60-$90. But I just don't see the value now that I received it. Even the ground wire crimps were poorly done, with one of the wires crimped too much and broken loose from the connector so I had to re-crimp them on a new connector. And then shortly after ordering I get an email saying not to use the t-taps (surprise, surprise). And the only part of the printed instructions that was clear was the part about how voodoo is not responsible for anything you do, etc etc.

Just sharing an honest opinion of the product so others know what they are getting into.

 

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion (even though yours is slightly skewed, since you've had it out for us from the very beginning of this project).

Again, thanks for your business!!

 

Haha, yeah mine is skewed in favor of the consumer.

Like I said, there is no argument here. For anyone who isn't a sheep, you can see the facts and real costs in other threads.

 

For anybody who wants to go through the trouble of flashing the module, all the necessary information is in this thread.

For anybody who wants the flashing done, and the module assembled in a nice kit at a very nice price, we've done all the work for you, and it can be ordered here: http://www.kbvoodoo.com/

 

Well, technically, that flashing information is in THIS thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ing-oem-fob-2017-tacoma-push-to-start.466230/

OR you can buy the BDALL2 module already flashed (flashing is free) from several vendors on ebay ($30-40 shipped).