3rd Gen Remote Start Using OEM Remote

Yea we get it dude move on with your life

 

This will be first attempt to solder onto existing wires rather than using t-taps of some sort - my question is do you solder the new wire (coming from the dball) across the oem wire forming a cross shape wrapping around the oem wire or do you solder the new wire onto the oem wire in parallel? Does this make sense?

 

I do a splice similar to this, then solder over it:

http://makezine.com/2012/02/28/how-to-splice-wire-to-nasa-standards/

Edit: This is another good one:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Splice-Cable-Like-A-Rocket-Scientist/?ALLSTEPS

Also don't forget to put the shrink tube on before soldering...

 

I’m not going to get into the kerfuffle. I respect KBVooDoo’s efforts and fully understand the value-add he and Nick are providing in producing and supporting the kits. I do and will continue to encourage those in need of guidance and a support system to definitely consider buying one of their kits.

I do need to respond to this incorrect statement:

The DEI

$59 DBALL2 Databus All Combo Bypass Module

DBALL2 has been mentioned here on the 3rd Gen forum beginning over a year ago. It was on my radar along with the Fortin EVO-ALL and EVO-ONE products prior to the original “$45 DIY Remote Start” thread. I simply hadn't had time to mess with anything due to home improvement projects and waiting for vacation time during the week before Christmas to do some truck projects.

My write up is based entirely on the DEI instructions, cross-checked against the Fortin instructions which use most of the same connections, as well as the Factory Service Manual, with a good dose of my own digging around. While I did see the original partial write-up before it was then deleted as the KBVooDoo kits became available, I very specifically did my write up in a “clean room” manner to ensure I didn’t have access to or use any proprietary information.

Whether someone wishes to believe this or not is their choice. I posted my write-up to benefit the community at large and I have neither an axe to grind nor any benefit to gain from whether people do or don't buy a kit.

 

I just wrapped around the wire and soldered it. For something like the auto-headlights where you cut the wire, the above will work. For splicing into an existing wire, most seem to what's called a military splice and apparently nasa certified. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155344-military-splice-how-to/. Some also wrap it around both sides like

Get some 24 and 26AWG wire and practice practice practice. The dball wires are 24, ecu wires appear to be about the same size and the obdii connectors are the smaller ones so be careful when stripping those. Don't even bother trying to get wire strippers on anything other than the dball wires. Use a good sharp x-acto knife and scrape away the insulation while keeping the blade as parallel to the wires as possible. Some also score two circles around the wire the desired distance apart and then split the insulation between the scores and peel off.

My soldering irons are crap and @gpb suggested a butane powered one so I picked up http://www.homedepot.com/p/MagTorch-7-in-1-Micro-Flame-Pro-Butane-Soldering-Kit-MT790K/300574183 from home depot and was pleasantly surprised. It does get hot VERY FAST and you have to be careful where that exhaust port on the tip is pointing especially when in confined spaces. Remember to heat the wire, not the solder instead of heating the solder and letting it drop on the wire. With the iron under the wire, the solder should flow through the wires once it gets hot enough.

 

Good info, @PJnc284

I'd add only that folks will want *thin* rosin core solder, as in 1/16" or less. Don't need much. I'm still using a 20 year old spool from radio shack.

Something like this: https://www.radioshack.com/products/rosin-core-solder-2-5-oz

 

After being delayed due to having some sort of plague for a week, I finally felt well enough to get this put in today. Took me a little over an hour and worked exactly as advertised. The directions are good particularly if you watch the video as well. I tried to use the quick connects, but the wires you have to tap into are so small I just didn't feel good about it and ended up soldering and taping the whole thing. Great product, I'm very happy.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I am not new to soldering at all, but usually I am soldering connectors onto wires (xlr, 1/4, rca, etc) and wires to wires, but I just haven't had to do it where I have to strip the jacket off a wire without cutting the wire so I will practice this method.

I want to solder for a solid connection, but I also want to use the posi-taps so that it's easy to remove if I ever want to sell it or get rid of the vehicle

 

How do you insulate? You can't use shrinkwrap can you?

 

only on the end to end connections. They make a wrap-around heat shrink but seems to be a bit

Shrink-N-Repair (S) - Wrap-Around Heat Shrink (Black) for Small Wire Diameters 0.05” to 0.25” - 12” Long - Split Heat Shrink Tape

pricey. Most just use a good quality electrical tape.

 

For this install I just cut the wires and put heat shrink on them. If I need to remove it I'll just have to solder the factory wires back together again.

 

I did the same. Cut and used a heat shrink tube filled with solder and glue. Worked well enough and got them on Amazon.

 

what the hell happened to the 45 dollars? Now it's 129?

not coolio

 

Not quite $45 but I'm selling one for $65 shipped for anyone who doesn't want to go the ebay route and are looking to save a bit of money on a pre-configured kit. It's the initial pre-voodoo kit that I bought from Nick for $70. I ended up deciding to do it on my own so I have this one as a spare. I redid the ground terminal and heat-shrinked it since insulated terminals look like crap, labelled the wires and will also include 2' of the wrap-around tubing I used in my install.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/remote-start-for-16-17-tacoma.466945/

Initial order


What the buyer will get

 

Damn - already ordered mine and it has shipped. Like how you placed those labels on them

 

Installed mine today. Instead off the solid red light coming on to program, it flashes red to green to orange. Any ideas on this one?

 

Installed mine last night, buttoned it up before testing it. Hit the button 3 times no bueno.
Started the truck, then tried again.. all good.

 

I'm getting crazy patterns of unlocks. It works, but the lock/unlock is going crazy... anybody have any idea?

 

Did you perform the following procedure (from the DEI instructions) before your first try? If not it won't work; sounds like you maybe ended up doing it when you started the truck, so it worked afterward.

 

You've triple-checked every single connection is going where it's supposed to go?

Past that I don't have a suggestion other than to try a module reset (not a hard reset), an failing that get the module replaced/reflashed.