Water Bypass Pipe No.1

When I refilled the radiator/system with coolant, I first squeezed the upper and lower radiator hoses to help "burp" the air up through the open radiator cap. Then, I left the cap off while the started the engine. As the coolant was sucked down I kept adding more. If you can find a funnel that will create a somewhat-seal with the radiator fill opening, you might minimize the spilling. I remember over filling the funnel a little and allowing the coolant to be drawn down from the half-full funnel. Gotta be a little careful as the coolant heats up, but I didn't have any problems besides some spilled coolant to deal with. Definitely a messy job as the coolant will burp up with the air so you'll get some spillage.

 

After filling the radiator, turn on heater wide openwith engine running. Air cant be purged compleatly before this.
On to that $&)@/ pypass pipe. Many diy'ers will take a short cut here and there. Some wont, no matter what. Im a give and take guy with a lot of hours under the "shade tree". That pipe will not go in without removing the intake manifold. I went around it. With the new metal pipe in hand, i cut about 5 inches before the last turn. Fitted a length of heater hose with a 90 degree turn to it, a hoses splice,and another 90 degree turn. I then fliped the flange side of the new pipe so it is directed away fron the engine . Twisting all the parts so there is no rubbing, and marking their positions. Disassembled the parts, added hose clamps, and reassembled. With the flexable hoses, the re-enginered part installed easily. As for access, I placed the truck on jack stands, removed front driver wheel and splash shields, and the starter. Also a couple wire connectors and a small bracket for access to the flange. This saved me hours of engine work and a chunk of money for gaskets.

 

I found the problem...it was the radiator cap it was faulty ( not a toyota one...!!) all good now. thank you all for taking the time to help..MUCH apperciated...! thx

 

Hi I just started having the same problem a couple weeks ago. I got the parts in for the bypass I got a completely different type of gasket mine is a 2007 tacoma prerunner 2.7 5 speed manual and I saw on an earlier post. And I was wondering is there a notch or something on the inside of it where the thermostat housing is or what bc I don't see how it's gonna go in on it. It's kind of a thick plastic. I've done some Google searching and haven't came up with much except for a photo. Thanks

 

If you still have the plastic/composite bypass pipe that would be the correct gasket. However if you have a metal bypass pipe that would be the wrong gasket and would need to look like a football made of rubberized sheet metal with a hole on either end.

Also be sure your bypass pipe does not have a middle mounting tab. If it does it may work but is actually for a different engine all together.

 

2.7taco thank you for the wisdom on this. I was given the metal bypass and glad I stopped in here thank you again I will now be getting the correct gasket for this job

 

Not a problem glad I can help.

 

Hi -- I just joined and needed to replace my cracked 2006 tacoma plastic coolant bypass pipe with the factory stainless steel pipe. I read Fabricator's post above, and managed to remove the plastic pipe and install the new stainless pipe WITHOUT removing the exhaust manifold, starter or wheel. I basically cut the center 9" out of the stainless steel pipe and replaced it with 5/8" heater hose. I double hose clamped the hose onto the ends. See photo(s).

 

That'll work but keep in mind the reason manufacturers use hard pipe for something like that is reliability. Far less chance of it springing a leak or wearing out. Provided they don't use plastic which they did. Hoses and clamps fatigue and considering where that pipe is I doubt you'd want to mess with it out in the middle of now where.

 

Hi TRVLR500B, Thanks for the note and I agree with your comment and observations about the potential for failure with flexible heater hose and hose clamps compared to the stainless steel factory replacement. In this regard, I keep a length of replacement 5/8" hose, coolant, and a socket set in the truck. My thought is the hose I installed is as good as the other heater and radiator hoses on the truck, and better than the plastic hose it replaces. In addition to our Tacoma, we also own this little trawler. I also do my own maintenance and repairs on the boat, including its 6-cylinder Ford Lehman 120 HP naturally aspirated diesel engine. Owning a boat makes one often think outside the box in adapting available resources to achieve a job, and the importance of carrying critical spare parts (hence my spare length of heater hose in the truck). Thanks again for your comments. Utah is a beautiful state and Monument Valley is awesome!

 

Toddwarren2,
I'm having the same problem. I have the parts but have not tackled it yet. Can you confirm that the new gasket, (16258-75021), goes in dry, with no type of sealant.
Thanks

 

Which gasket is that? Sorry don't remember the PN.

 

The gasket is basically a thin metal football shaped gasket, part nr 16258-75021. It is the gasket recommended for use with the new metal replacement for the OEM plastic bypass pipe. It goes between the housing and the pipe at the front. I was just concerned about it's ability to provide a seal and wondered if it needed some sort of sealant on it.
Thanks.

 

No sealant required. It has some type of polymer/rubber coating on it to form a seal.

 

Thanks. Will bite the bullet and attempt the repair soon.

 

That my friend, is so so cool!

 

Hi JL1O24, not to contradict 2.7taco's comment above about not needing sealant on that football-shaped polymer gasket used for the replacement stainless steel pipe, and I DID apply a bead of Permatex RTV sealant gasket maker on that gakset. My personal opinion is because I had the system apart and was working on it anyway, applying a small bead of sealant was a small additional investment of time and assurance that connection wouldn't leak. Then again, I've been told I am an obsessive compulsive disorder (OCD) type person and normally go the extra step in these types of projects! Here's a not so good photo of that connection. The red sealant is the RTV I applied. It is a challenging job for sure, especially if you attempt the "workaround" of not removing the intake manifold, but it can be done. It began raining halfway through my project which really made the repair that much more fun...

 

You guys will not believe it but I installed my bypass from the rear under the truck. When I removed the old tube I removed it from the rear of the truck and installed the new one the same way the old one came out. The total time was 2 hrs. I read all the work involved with removing the intake. I just took my time ,but you have to remember to place it how it is installed from under the truck. I worked f

 

Torque specs anyone?

 

13 foot pounds. I took mine to 15 foot pounds.