Death Valley Itinerary Advice

Hi folks,



Relative newbie here, and looking for a sample itinerary for a three-to-four-day Death Valley trip for this coming April. My wife and I will be driving down from far-northern California, probably on the 395. I’ve spent hours reading DV trip reports here on TW and on other sites, in addition to purchasing The Explorer’s Guide to Death Valley, but still want a bit of guidance. A bit about my skill-set: I’m new to the world of offroading and have only owned my 4x4 SR5 for a few months. (I'm assuming routes like Lippincott will be above my skill level?) However, I’m a seasoned camper/hiker/backpacker; I’ve done solo backpacking trips in the back country for weeks at a time. Can anyone sketch out a draft of a possible itenerary that matches my experience level. We’d like to avoid established capmgrounds and guided tours and camp “off-the-beaten-path” if possible. We’re good at going without creature comforts. I understand from the book I referenced above that camping is permitted most places greater than two miles from paved roads. Of course, I’ve spent a lot of time reading about safety concerns and plan to take appropriate precautions. I’ll be bringing extra gas and will have some good AT tires by the time we depart.



Thanks!



‑-Colin

 

@DVexile

 

I'll come back later and add some more thoughts on actual routes, but for now:

• Lippincott should be fine for a SR5 4x4 with LT tires. It really doesn't require any skills beyond going slow. Downhill use 4LO where steep to minimize using the brakes. Lippincott is just sort of scary for newbies because it has steep drop-offs on the side of the road. I'd say it is a great introduction to roads that require clearance and 4WD.
• Do yourself a favor and do an ABS kill switch mod. ABS sucks on dirt roads and there are some long ass dirt roads in DV.
• On the subject of tires you said AT (All-Terrain). You probably already know this, but be sure you are getting an LT (Light Truck) rated tire and not a P (Passenger) tire. There are tires that claim to be "AT" that are actually P sized/rated. Basically you want durable tires. They don't necessarily have to be heavy load E concrete donuts like KO2s but you want something reasonably durable.
• If your itinerary ends up involving some long off pavement travel then get an air pump if you don't already have one. The roads out there washboard badly. Twenty miles of washboard on tires at highway pressure will thoroughly test whatever bonding agent your dentist used on your fillings. Nothing works better than airing down to help with washboard. I didn't air down for years and now that I do I can't believe I was such an idiot to not air down before.
• Explorer's Guide to DV is a good book. Camping regs have changed a little since it was published though. They are actually a bit more permissive in some places. Check out the NPS site for updated info. They have a PDF Backcountry Roads map that is good to look at.
• Sounds like you are fit for hiking. You'll want a good hiking guide for out there. See this recent post in my build thread on the best books to get: Diet Taco... trying to keep things light

One question as it affects route recommendations. When in April are you going? (Easter crowded and late April often significantly warmer than early April).

 

@DVexile, Thanks so much for an-in-depth reply! I'll take your advice to heart.

I have a window of April 8-15th to choose from.

 

I'd recommend staying constantly affiliated with this page: Conditions can change within a few hours, and if weather is especially bad whole sections of the park can become inaccessible. So follow projected weather conditions closely.

So much to see and do in the park, you can't go wrong. But a hint. Don't spread yourself too thin over too much of the park per visit. The park is huge.

 

That's a lesson I learned years ago regarding road trips in general. Good reminder!

 

I'd take the earlier part of the April 8-15 window to avoid Easter crowds. Though hopefully we will have you in the back country for most of the trip And yes, the park is absolutely huge. Best to assume you'll come back some day (hopefully many times) to see more of it and stay focused on a smaller area for this visit.

Since April can start to get warm and you are already coming from the north on 395 let's keep you in the more remote and higher elevation NW regions of the park. There are essentially no paved roads in this area beyond a few short sections and it is my favorite part of the park. Likely to be better wildflowers in this region by April, the low country will have roasted its flowers already. You'll miss the central DV area around Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells but those are likely to be very warm and quite crowded around this time of year. I recommend doing those areas in mid-winter - early December the very best time.

Some of this depends on snow so as mentioned above pay attention to road conditions. By early April I wouldn't expect any snow problems but a late heavy storm could upset things.

Enter via Big Pine-Death Valley road which as the name suggests leaves the 395 around Big Pine. Drive to and check out Eureka Dunes. These are way larger and better in every way than the more popular/accessible Stovepipe Dunes in the central area of the park. Climbing to the top and back is a couple hour effort but well worth it.

From here you have three options:

1. Double back west a bit on Big-Pine-Death-Valley Road to Saline Valley Road and head south into Saline Valley
2. Continue on Big-Pine-Death-Valley Road east into Death Valley itself
3. Head south from the dunes over Steel Pass

I would not recommend option 3 as you are new to off roading and Steel Pass has some tricky spots.

Option 2 is viable but puts you into the more crowded parts of DV and is quite a long washboarded slog. If you did decide to do this hit up Titus Canyon Road while down there and check a thousand different guides on the typical tourist destinations that way. However even if not going to DV proper, going just a little east into the mountains offers a nice warm weather hike to "Sandy Point". I can't remember which guide books that is in, but here's a link to someone's trip report including a marked route on a topo: Sandy Point. Sounds like you are a hiker and this is a wonderful hike if you want to take the time. Once done with Sandy Point you could continue with...

Option 1 would be my recommendation assuming "North Pass" is not blocked by lots of snow (really should be fine by April). Best place to check North Pass conditions is here. This will get you into Saline Valley. Definitely get the Digonnet book on the Saline/Eureka/Panamint area referred to in the post I linked to in my build thread. An avid hiker could spend a week in Saline Valley. The canyons draining the Inyos offer some nice shady, cool and surprisingly wet hikes. The hot springs in Saline will be a mob scene this time of year, but probably still worth a visit if you can tolerate lots of naked people and a permanent haze of weed smoke. One reason to stop by is you can have a nice hot shower there.

Out from Saline Valley I'd take Lippincott up to Racetrack Playa. There will be a fair number of people this time of year (in DV back country terms "fair number" means like eight cars or so). You sort of have to see Racetrack Playa and Racetrack Valley itself is a surreal setting. Again, assuming you are a bit of a hiker definitely do Ubehebe Peak which leaves from near the playa. Personally I'd skip going to the actual peak itself unless you are an avid peak bagger who likes scary scrambles. However the slightly lower peak just north and still right along the established trail is much easier and offers just as nice a view.

From Racetrack you could continue north all the way to Ubehebe Crater and be in DV proper and again hit Titus or tourist sites (be aware this road usually has absolutely punishing washboard). That said I'd recommend instead leaving Racetrack Road at Teakettle Junction and going through Hidden Valley and up over Hunter Mountain instead. Hunter Mountain is another spot that could have late season snow so again be aware of the road conditions. Stop by Lost Burro Mine along the way for sure. There are some nice warm weather hikes in the Cottonwoods accessible from here. This region is in Digonnet's Hiking Death Valley. Really, get both of Digonnet's books on Death Valley.

Having crossed Hunter Mountain you'll be at South Pass at the very southern end of Saline Valley. If Hunter Mountain was not passable to snow you could get to this same point from Racetrack by going back down Lippincott to connect again to Saline Valley Road and continue south on that road to get to South Pass. From South Pass continue south on Saline Valley Road to reach CA-190. Along the way see the impressive Lee Flat Joshua tree forest. Then head west on 190 to get back to the 395 at Lone Pine.

There is far more than 3-4 days of things to do along that route. Dispersed camping allowed nearly everywhere along the route except the stretch from Racetrack Playa to Teakettle Junction. Again - get both Digonnet books and you'll have way more options for exploration along the route than you know what to do with.

And fuel - the Tacoma sucks at mileage and even more so off road. Fill up at Big Pine of course but I'd feel more comfortable doing this route with an extra 2.5 or 5 gallons along. If nothing went wrong you'd be fine without the extra gas, but if you unexpectedly found Hunter impassable and had to double back you'd want the extra.

Feel free to ask any specific questions!

 

Wow! Ken, thanks so much for taking all that time to do such an in-depth write-up. I appreciate it! I'm going to take your "Option 1" as the Saline Valley looked interesting to me. Again, thanks. I'll be sure to write-up a trip report upon our return. And I'll get the books you mentioned. I actually wasn't that impressed with the guide book (T Scott Byran) I just bought; I was hoping the maps would be higher resolution.

 

OK, I just did a search and found this link, but I'm not sure it applies to 3rd gen vehicles. Also, the OP in the link has TRAC, something I don't have. I have a 2017 4x4 V6 SR5 with VSC OFF/Auto LSD and nothing else. Can anyone confirm whether or not this mod will work for me?

 

@goblue82 @dtaco06

 

That "Dental Work" comment!

 

I'm gonna try to hit up DV in Feb. or next winter. I look forward to your trip report. @DVexile thanks for the info. I've done a lot of reading on DV and also follow your adventure/build thread. You are a wealth of information.

 

Death Valley!
The largest national park in the lower 48. That being said there is tons to do and see. I'm partial to Saline for various reasons. My most recent trip took me in Saline via South Pass and it was a bit hairy due to mud and slush. Right now there is snow but as referenced earlier in this thread there are various places to get up to date road conditions. Depends on the weather. Also weather related is temps during April. It could be perfect or it could be getting warm already. On my last trip I did go up Lippincott to the Racetrack and Ubehebe Crater then to Furnace Creek. Lippincott is worse than I recall but it is a great experience. Just take it easy. I didn't need my locker nor atrac and being that you have an SR5 you don't have those anyway unless aftermarket.

There is so much debate and conversation dedicated to tires. I will tell you that you do not need a hardcore tread pattern and tire to dominate most if not all of DV. I run Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain in a 235/85/16 size and they have never let me down.
https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tires/wrangler-all-terrain-adventure

One option you may want to consider is doing Saline Valley Road north to south with a deviation to the springs if temps aren't too warm. Exiting SVR to Highway 190 head southeast to Panamint Springs Resort (PSR). Stop and check out Father Crowley Overlook. PSR has a breakfast buffet all you can eat for 10 bucks. Camping is also 10 bucks and they have hot showers. From PSR you have many options. One is making a full day trip to DV proper and do the major tourist stuff-Badwater, Marble Canyon, Artist Drive(if reopened), Dantes View, Zabriskie Point, etc. From DV proper you could take West Side Road to Warm Springs Road and access Butte Valley too.

Or another option from PSR is to go to the Charcoal Kilns from Wildrose and continue to Mahogany Flat for a camping spot. You noted you have done your fair share of hiking/backpacking. The trailhead to Telescope Peak is near Mahogany Flat. Telescope Peak gives you views of the highest and lowest places in the contiguous US- Badwater and Mt. Whitney. If you chose to go to Barker Ranch (not Manson Ranch-he only stayed there a short time) continue further to the top of Mengal Pass in order to glimpse Butte Valley. The road continuing down is pretty gnarly. Up to that point though just take your time.


Aside from the Digonnet books I would suggest the following references:
Benchmark Atlas
NatGeo DV Map
Roger Mitchell's DV SUV Trails book. When I was cutting my teeth in Owens/Death Valley's I would buy different volumes of Mr. Mitchell's books in various gas stations along the 395. Most of them carry his books but you can find them online too in advance. He gives road ratings and good history of areas covered.

 

^ Thanks for the advice, ETAV8R!

 

It's a big lonely place if you're off pavement and breakdown. More so than many other places so be a Boy Scout and have backups and people waiting for an all clear call by X day/time as an all clear.

It's been well covered by others. Never been down lippincott to the race track as friends have told me it can be very ugly. The racetrack is cool to see at least once especially if you're the photography type. There's a rough campground with ZERO services about 2 miles south of the racetrack -see pics.

It's a natl park not BLM so you can't just pitch a tent anywhere. Titus Canyon is also a nice ride. Catch it just west of Beatty NV as it runs one way heading west.

Make an on pavement run up to Dantes Peak for a great view.

Also, the road in to the park from the north along with scotties castle is closed for damage and will be for quite some time still.

Just got my Tacoma so I don't have any pics there with it.

Tom

 

I just posted my new death valley thread, then saw this. Any place you go should be good. Just take it slow.

 

Update: We had a GREAT trip last April. We ended up spending all our time in Eureka Valley and Eureka Valley. Fully Awesome. Thanks for all who weighed in.

We've got another trip planned in a couple weeks, and I can't wait.