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2016 Tacoma Audio Build (Pic Heavy)

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by AngryOscar, Jan 6, 2017.

  1. Jan 6, 2017 at 11:00 PM
    #1
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Ben
    Sumter SC
    Vehicle:
    2016 Silver Tacoma TRD OR Manual
    Hello. I purchased my Tacoma back in July of 2016. Coming from my previous car with a full system, the very first thing I was let down by with this truck was the audio output. I intentionally bought the non-JBL system so I could later upgrade with my own parts.

    DSC_2428.jpg

    Here is the build log as I went. I didn't take as many pics later into the build as it was middle of a humid summer in FL and I just wanted to get finished.

    First things first, I did a lot of research on how I could wire everything to the stock Entune Nav. Then I began ordering my parts.

    List of parts:

    -MrMarv Custom Box - Find him on these Forums
    -(2) JL Audio 10TW3-D4 - Link
    -Polk Audio DB6501 6.5 Component Pair - Link
    -Polk Audio DB6501 6.5 Coaxial Speakers - Link
    -JL Audio JX1000/1D Mono Amp - Link
    -JL Audio JX400/4D 4 Ch Amp- Link
    -Audio Control LC7i 6 CH Line Output Converter - Link
    -Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness - Link
    -Metra 71-1761 Toyota Vehicle Harness - Link
    -5 Feet of KnuKonceptz 0 Gauge - Link
    -20 Feet of KnuKonceptz 4 Gauge - Link
    -20 Feet of KnuKonceptz 8 Gauge - Link
    -10 Feet of KnuKonceptz 4 Gauge (silver for ground) - Link
    -2 Karma Kable 2 Ch/3 Feet RCA - Link
    -1 Karma Kable 2 CH/13 Feet RCA - Link
    -100 Feet of KnuKonceptz 14 gauge Speaker Wire- Link
    -50 Feet of AudioPipe 14 gauge Remote Wire- Link
    -20 Feet of Stinger SGW9920 9 Wire Speedwire - Link
    -InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Ring Terminals - Link
    -InstallGear 4 Gauge Ring Terminals - Link
    -Stinger SHD820 HPM MANL/MIDI Distribution Block - Link
    -Pack of Stinger SPF5880 Pro 80 Amp MIDI Fuses - Link
    -Pack of Stinger SPF5840 Pro 40 Amp MIDI Fuses - Link
    -Wire Crimp Connectors - Link

    Accessories:

    -Uxcell 5cm Rolling Wheel - Link
    -36 Sq Feet of Noico Sound Deadening - Link
    -eLander 7 in 1 Soldering Iron Kit - Link
    -NTE HG-300 Mini Heat Gun - Link
    -Shrink Wrap Tubing - Link

    DSC_2244.jpg

    First things First... Wire up the Metra harness to the speed wire so I can plug and play into my Toyota factory harness without splicing a thing.

    DSC_2247.jpg DSC_2251.jpg

    I did have to depin and move a wire on one of the connectors, I honestly forgot which one, I'll look into it or somebody can chime in.

    For Reference though

    ToyotaRadioPlugs.jpg
    ToyotaCode1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2017
    jerzsubbie and bvbull200 like this.
  2. Jan 6, 2017 at 11:14 PM
    #2
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Sumter SC
    Vehicle:
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    IDK its making me split the posts...

    Anyways, now to the fun part.

    I removed my Entune unit by firmly pulling on the dash trim around the radio, a few small bolts later and the Entune was out. I plugged my speedwire/harness I made into the factory Toyota wiring harness and fished the speedwire down the dash and out towards the center counsel since my line converter is going under the passenger seat.
    DSC_2192.jpg DSC_2645.jpg

    BTW, I labeled my speedwire assembly with masking tape according to the color chart in the first post to make it easier to wire into the converter.

    Next I removed the drivers and passenger seats to make room and plan where everything will go. Thanks to my dad for removing all the door panels while I wired everything up.

    DSC_2658.jpg
    DSC_2683.jpg
    DSC_2684.jpg

    All things considering, it turned out pretty clean looking. Won't be able to see the wires once the seat is installed. Probably could have tucked them under the carpet somehow, but it was bulky and didn't see much point in it. After cleaning and prepping the front left seat bolt of passenger seat, that was my ground point.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2017
  3. Jan 6, 2017 at 11:29 PM
    #3
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Ben
    Sumter SC
    Vehicle:
    2016 Silver Tacoma TRD OR Manual
    Next, I took a break inside from the FL heat and started to wire the distribution block and power wire. Piece of cake.

    DSC_2624.jpg DSC_2626.jpg

    I'm going 0 Gauge from the battery into the fuse block. Output 4 Gauge with 80 amp fuse, and 8 Gauge with 40 amp fuse, as JL recommends for their amps, since no built in fuses.

    Now to install it and figure out how to get through the fire wall.

    DSC_2634.jpg

    Ended up Running the 4 gauge through the drivers side firewall, then down along the floor kicker panel and behind the back seats. There was actually a perfect size grommet (after cutting the center out) that fit the 4 gauge....Pro tip... lube them with something slippery and tape something flexible but rigid, we used a very heavy duty ziptie, to the wire. It was also easier fishing up from the interior. If drive a manual, watch out for the clutch assembly, don't want to be pinching wires. That white stuff you see is lube.

    DSC_2631.jpg
    DSC_2630.jpg
    DSC_2633.jpg

    The smaller 8 gauge I ran around the top side of the fire wall then down through the grommet and along the passenger floor rocker under the passenger seat. TBH... Huge pain in the ass to get both sized cables though. Led to busted knuckles and a lot of swearing.

    DSC_2632.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2017
  4. Jan 6, 2017 at 11:43 PM
    #4
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Ben
    Sumter SC
    Vehicle:
    2016 Silver Tacoma TRD OR Manual
    With the door panels off, time to remove the 4 cheap stock speakers and tweeters. to make room for the new hotness.

    DSC_2660.jpg
    DSC_2659.jpg

    Oh look, my MrMarv custom brackets finally made it. Long wait, but high quality and worth it. Time to prime and paint them. I used black primer and canned bed spray liner. Worked well I think.

    DSC_2642.jpg

    Time to add some of my sound deadening to the inside and outside of door. Did as far as I could reach on the inside without tearing door apart. I'm not competing, but any little bit helps. Then I cut a piece with a hole in it and actually used that as a sort of bytle rubber washer for my speaker panels. Once screwed into the door they felt solid and secure, no rattles.

    DSC_2651.jpg
    DSC_2656.jpg

    Ok my painting job wasn't perfect and some of the newspaper stuck to the wet paint as I started to get in a hurry. A storm was approaching.

    Here comes the hard part. Getting the new speaker wire through the door grommet. OMG that sucked. There is no room to work. Squeeze the grommet to release from the door and use same principle with grease and rigid zip tie. Man handle it a bit if needed.

    DSC_2650.jpg

    Reinstall grommet and double check for pinched wires. Nope, good. Speakers mounted. Tweeters mounted. I have no advice on getting to the tweeter locations, my dad already had all the plastics out of the way for me... Thanks dad. But installation was as simple as dropping the wire through the hole and bolting it in. Use a very short ratchet or wrench, the front bolt is a tight squeeze.

    DSC_2652.jpg
    DSC_2657.jpg
    DSC_2644.jpg

    The pic is the stock tweeter, I didn't snap a pick with the Polk tweet, totally forgot....storm remember?
     
  5. Jan 7, 2017 at 12:04 AM
    #5
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Time to prep my MrMarv box... the moment ya'll have been waiting for. This box came bare, as I was in a rush to get it to FL since I was doing all of this on my bday vacation. I live in SC.

    Thing was pure beauty and solid. I will say, if you decide to order a box, be patient. He builds everything custom spec'd to the subs you plan to use. I started to grow impatient, but I was relieved when it arrived in one piece. Good job on the packaging. Honestly I'm glad I went with him for my box. Amazing customer service, solid product, answered my very early phone call, was even earlier for him with the time zone. Even after I woke him up he walked me through everything. Fair priced. No regrets.

    DSC_2637.jpg
    DSC_2638.jpg

    It was so beautiful naked I almost left it that way. Time to prime and paint. I did many many coats of the bed liner (minus the insides of it of course). Lost count. oh, check out that perfectly sized amp rack.

    DSC_2641.jpg
    DSC_2655.jpg
    DSC_2666.jpg

    Let's make room for the Box. After fumbling around for hours and getting frustrated I couldn't fit the box behind the rear seat, I called Marv. Little did I know if you pulled the plastics off the back of the seats they unbolt and make more room. I have the Clazzio seat covers so I totally didn't notice that. Had to remove cover completely to remove the plastics, more on that later. Took the time to add some more sound deadening. My dad pounded out/sawed/hammered/removed the metal hoops on the back. Marv said only two of them needed to be removed, the other two would bend. That proved to be too difficult so we just removed all 5, then hit them with some primer to avoid rusting though. Good luck putting the plastic tool bins back in :|

    DSC_2664.jpg
    DSC_2665.jpg
    DSC_2680.jpg
    DSC_2681.jpg
    DSC_2682.jpg

    Look at that snug fit. Should have added a bit more sound deadening, but my vacation was literally up and I had to leave soon. Wired it up powered it on.

    OH CRAP! The sub surround rubbed the back of the seats on the leather Clazzios where the plastic backing made its bed. Started to damage my subs, left permanent marks. Marv said the plastic seatbacks could stay... wrong, but possibly because of the seat covers. Either way I think they would have hit when the sub was full excursion. Now had to remove the stupid seats again and remove the covers, then remove the plastic, install seat covers, then install seats back in the truck. A solid hour of my time wasted when I should have been driving back. But at least we caught it before I left. My dad even skipped Church that Sunday morning to help me. He never skips Church. But he said a little line that made me smile "Father will always help thine son" seriously he's the best. Kuddos.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2017
    jerzsubbie, mach1man001 and Ginotjr like this.
  6. Jan 7, 2017 at 12:11 AM
    #6
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It's been a few months now, everything is holding up well and sounds amazing. Not near as much output as from my single 12 SSA ICON in a much larger ported Box, but the sound quality is amazing. Shakes the mirrors a bit. I would like it to be louder. If I ever blow these subs, I'll try another brand. Just finding slim line subs to fit the small enclosure was tough.

    Overall I am satisfied. I need to snap more recent pics. You can see where the sub surround hits the back of the seat cover even still, but luckily its not being stopped by a 90 degree angled plastic. It just makes the back of the cover flap. Can't hear the flap, what I mean as its soft back there so nothing really stopping the excursion. The one down side, if I fold my seats flat to transport something back there, it would rip through the leathers as there is nothing to support the weight of resting items now. Good thing I have a truck bed and a tonneau cover :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2017
  7. Jan 7, 2017 at 2:46 AM
    #7
    dan0mite

    dan0mite #NOTNORM

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    Check The Build Thread
    Very nice and clean install!
     
    AngryOscar[OP] likes this.
  8. Jan 7, 2017 at 9:21 AM
    #8
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!
     
  9. Jan 7, 2017 at 6:14 PM
    #9
    zackdippolito

    zackdippolito Well-Known Member

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    Good stuff man love that amp (1000)
     
    AngryOscar[OP] likes this.
  10. Jan 8, 2017 at 8:15 AM
    #10
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I like the amp too. I'm not sure what I should tune my amps and lc7 too. Anyone have advice what to set the crossovers/filters at?
     
  11. Apr 26, 2017 at 6:49 PM
    #11
    AngryOscar

    AngryOscar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just an update, everything is still going strong. The JLs broke in nicely. Still not quite as loud as my last set up or I'd like it to be, but the sound quality is amazing. I did notice sometimes my amp shows clipping. IDK much about tuning especially with the lc7. If I turn gain down too much, the bump goes away. Any advice?
     
  12. Apr 30, 2017 at 2:07 PM
    #12
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    bunch of stuff - Bro Pro style
    Bass amp clipping? ... turn up the cutoff to say 35-40Hz... it takes A LOT of power to run speakers down low Hz... you're bumping it so that's the bass hogging the power. Clipping I assuming your losing sound then back on loosing sound back on ... momentarily.

    40Hz in a small space like a truck you should be fine with plenty of bass. 40Hz may not be low enough... cant say for sure what your amp and speakers are capable of.

    I'd start there with the bass amp and turn up the cutoff a little at a time till the clipping stops. Get a clean recording of your favorite music with bass that you are familiar with and dial it in to your taste.

    Clipping can happen from distortion and/or too much gain or the amp unable to keep up with demand. Also check for proper cooling... over heating an amp is not good either.
     
  13. May 1, 2017 at 8:29 AM
    #13
    bvbull200

    bvbull200 Well-Known Member

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    First off, great post and very helpful. I'll be installing some audio in my 2013 in about a week or so and, even though we're different gens, this helps.

    Maybe you know or maybe someone in the peanut gallery knows, but are these two harnesses the same for non-JBL 2013 Tacomas? It looks like they are, but I just wanted to confirm. I'd like to get a harness made similar to yours. Only an LC2i for me, so I'll be getting a 4 conductor run of wire from the headunit to the back of the truck.
     
  14. Aug 24, 2018 at 7:53 PM
    #14
    Felipe925

    Felipe925 Member

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    How did you get power to your LC7, I connected the harness right and I can’t get power And my amp doesn’t turn on either???
     
  15. Aug 26, 2018 at 1:23 PM
    #15
    Ericd94

    Ericd94 Well-Known Member

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    275/70/17 Falken Wildpeak, 5100's, 3 way active Morel system, custom dual 10 box by Marv, Method grid titanium wheels
    I have 2017 double cab. I was able to fit 2 10w3’s. The box was also built by Marv. I assure you that you would be happy with these. I am running 250 watts to each sub and it pounds.
     
  16. Mar 5, 2019 at 6:30 PM
    #16
    _gray_knight_

    _gray_knight_ Well-Known Member

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    I would like to know this as well. The LC7 is only a 2 amp draw. Did you get the power from the radio harness or did you do a direct line from the battery w/ a 2 amp fuse? I was also thinking since it's such a small draw, doing add a fuse on a spot of the driver side fuse area.
     
  17. Mar 9, 2019 at 11:40 PM
    #17
    Sep1911

    Sep1911 Well-Known Member

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    Just did my install today, getting those metra plugs was such a blessing. Saves you from tearing up the factory harness but the neat thing was having that amplifier power signal. I noticed the factory harness was missing that pin, even though the radio had it. I was weary as to whether it would work or not, but it worked like a charm and saved me the hassled of trying to find some ignition source for the amp. The plugs fit extremely firmly which is probably the only complaint I have. Taking them out is a bitch, but that's easily over looked by the utility they provide and that I will likely not have to remove them for years, if ever. Probably the best money I spent.
     

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