ARB Lockers

I am looking to put in ARB air lockers front and back. Does anyone know if the open diff mode (lockers not engaged but in 4 wheel drive) operates with the same characteristics as the stock open diff when in 4 wheel drive?

 

Yes it will operate as open differential just as long as you don't turn on the locker.

 

Does anyone have a locker in the front diff here? how do you like them?
(I will be putting one in when I get a truck)

 

Few things to consider
1. Front locker on IFS is more for loose ground, mud, snow only. Otherwise you will be blowing CV's very often.( you still get few spare ones and familiarize yourself with replacement procedure)
2. Your truck locked on the front and rear will have turning radius of aircraft carrier.
3. You may want to consider low lift if you running a front locker. Too much stress on components at weird angle. 1.5 inch most likely would be a top.

 

hmm, I was hoping for a 2.5 OME inch lift, would a limited slip be better?

 

You can have 3 inch lift as long as you install 1.5 diff drop o nthe front. Otherwise CV's may have too much angle to handle when locked.
Also I dont think there is limited slip for 2gen front.
Then again I may be thinking too much in terms of 1gens that had 27 spline CV's

 

Hmm, I can only seem to find arb lockers rd111 and

$1,212 rd121 air locking differential

rd121 for the 05+

BTW sorry for the hijack Dirt..ee

 

I was thinkin about getting a trd sport. Then it would have a limited slip rear diff and a locked front. In my opinion the best combo.

 

Sorry, I was talking about adding an arb locker a few posts up, and I ment after I add the locker it would have a locked front and a limited slip rear. So when the going gets tough I can press the tough button

 

I have E-locker on the back and i have 05 tacoma and only use them maybe 4 -6 time this hole time. all you really need is the rear. save some money on Cv's. and become a better drive jk.

 

An ARB install is NOT to be taken lightly. Along with the install of the locker, you have to do a 'gear setup' - also, not to be taken lightly.

If it's not done right.... you'll be blowing $800 of ARB out the window.

If you're not familiar with the ARB and what's involved to install them - then I'd highly recommend paying a professional to do it.

 

Shop around...the cost can vary. Make sure it's a reputable shop that has plenty of experience installing ARB's.

Back in 2001 in my Jeep - I had 2 axles (D44's) and had ARB's, gearing (4.56), bearings, & seals installed in both axles for $1200 labor at Hoaks 4WD. One guy is known for his work and has been installing ARB's for YEARS. We trusted his work...and didn't mind paying the cost. Those ARB's & gears lasted for 8 years at least - we sold the jeep and they were still going strong.

 

you are in NC you have some of the the best shops there

 

IronPig offroad is in VA not sure how far from you but htey are well known in Land Cruiser world
http://www.ironpigoffroad.com/
and I think east coast gear is in NC as well

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-61398-lockers-arb-air-lockers.html

 

I kinda want a locker, but I would probably regear at the same time.

 

Shoulda got an OR. HA!

 

A Non E-locker rear end is a bigger, (stronger) unit. You could argue equipped with and ARB it would be a better set up, especially if you upgrade the compressor for added on board air...

 

Really...

 

Yep thats true. R&P on non e-locked is 8.5 vs 8 on elocked.
So with ARB you actually have stronger rear diff then with e-locker.
Plus re- gearing has more options

 

x2...F*** it, just do a SAS!!!