PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

I've used Mobile 1 since new. Change the oil at 10K and spin on a new filter at 5K. It is at 176,000, uses no oil and runs like new. There is a guy who posts here that uses the same schedule with over 400,000 on his Tacoma.

 

Then it doesn't matter what you run. Modern dino SN API oils are very close to the level of the synthetics of yore, and they'll be excellent for the 5k OCI.

Yeah, well, remember, there are 2 or 3 sides to every story. OTOH, you could have a Blackstone Labs analysis done and use chemistry to tell you how much life you are pouring in the recycle bin.

So, since you are pre determined on OCIs, again, even dino is just fine for you.

Don't waste your money.

 

Exactly, the only difference between you and me is that I don't bother with the high mileage oils I just buy the regular Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum

It's been proven to be just as good if not better than M1. Plus like I said before changing it up between a couple of different brands means my engine will see some different detergents. Check out Bob is the oil guy, it's a web site specific to this whole entire topic

I have used Redline (hard to find) and it was good. I put in Amsoil because every test I could find said it was the best plus when I contacted a local distributor he sold it to me for less than I could but M1 for. If your looking for very good protection that's not too expensive and that is easy to find just get M1 at any Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts

I buy my engine oil at Walmart too and use only factory filters

I used to do this in my old Volkswagen years ago when I was a kid and it worked but I never liked the idea. I change my oil with the good stuff and when I drain it at 5K it's still pretty dark so no way am I doing that to this truck that costs over 30K

 

I think the questions of "what type or brand of oil" and "what tire should I buy" are the two most asked questions in TW. I think it really comes down to personal preference and habits. My personality is such that I enjoy working on my truck and I tend to be a little OCD when it comes to maintenance on everything from my riding mower to my truck. Some folks don't and that's cool, my buddy rarely does any maintenance and his truck has over 175k with no issues. I think there's no "right" answer to any of these questions, what is "right" for me may not be "right" for you.

 

You forgot 'what level lift should I use' and 'what are the largest tires I can use w/o rubbing'

 

If you have a higher mileage engine with some seepage...try a high mileage synthetic. The seal and gasket conditioners may help that. If you have a high mileage engine with no leaks... a HM formula might be a good preventive.

Synthetic oil does not cause oil leaks. What happens is...the synthetic is usually thinner when cold and is more likely to find it's way past a leaky seal

 

I have no oil leaking but prefer the HM oil to help condition the seals. A buddy of mine recommends HM oil and he has forgotten more about all things mechanical than I know.
My truck only has about 84,500k on her so it's not extreme HM using the Tacoma "yardstick".

 

Don't forget the extra quart for the 2.7!!

 

Just stick with what you have been doing and using. The motor has 70000 miles on it now and your plan is to maintain the same interval as 5000 miles oci. There is no benefit for you to change.

I run all my vehicles to at least 10000 miles on the Mobil 1 or 12 months. I maintain 3 Toyotas and they all get 10000 mile changes with the Mobil 1. Keep in mind I am not in the "severe service" category with any of my trucks. On these trucks I dumped the factory fill at less than 5000 miles and ran the synthetic since then. My 2003 Tacoma has 172000 miles on it and runs better than new. The 2003 burns less than a 1/4 of a quart in 10000 miles. My 2014 has 52000 miles on it and burns at a little less rate. My 2008 Tundra consumes more oil and has done that since the beginning. Nevertheless, I run synthetics in all engines I have including my boat, lawnmower, pressure washer, etc..

There is much information out there to read and study up on. Unfortunately, not many people care to research and are swayed by misinformation. Motor oil is one of those things that people get much misinformation on. There is a reason why they want you to do a 3000-5000 OCI and it is mainly money. In the end if your brain relaxes and your comfort factor is achieved with shorter OCI then stick with it.

 

This!

 

Its maybe been a 2 years since Ive checked Bob's the oil guy, but at the time the consensus was M1 Full Synthetic is just about the best consumer oil you can buy... Ive never thought to swap back and forth between another!

 

Purely Amsoil Signature Series, and the larger Wix Extreme Filter

$15 51516XP XP Oil Filter

51516XP for my 2.7L, crosses to Fram PH3600.

Anything that is performance I have, I run Redline.

Even if you're going to run shit oil, the most important thing is to change the oil.

 

Times have a changin'. Yes, years ago 3k was standard and 5k was pushing over the limit, but oil and engines have come a long way. No longer are 3K changes needed when using a high grade oil. I go 7.5 k with no loss of sleep. I used to be a 3K man and if I went 20 miles over that, the world would end.

Technology changed that.

 

The switch is a genuine Toyota OEM part, purchased at my local dealership. My truck had to go into the shop to have minor body damage repaired, and the owner of the body shop install the switch for like $10 extra. I could have done it myself, but it's freezing cold in my area right now and I think $10 is worth it to not have to be out in the cold!

NOTE: I realize that the steering column is a bit misaligned in this photo and after numerous attempts to correct it, I bought a brand new OEM casing from the dealer a few months later and installed it myself. Looks great now!

 

Which part number did you get? where did you buy it? Price you paid? thank you! im looking into this myslef

 

Just under $140, and it's a wiper switch for a 2010 Tacoma SR5.

 

awesome thanks

 

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/toyota-tacoma-wiper-switch

 

I believe there are 2 different part numbers for the wiper switch and im still unsure on which is the correct one to buy. for my 08

 

got this last fall, $120 free shipping... also bought cruise control stuff from this guy.