Tapping the Dash Lights Circuit

I did the same thing and my Mictuning switch is god-awful bright and doesn't dim with the dimmer switch. It's got to be one of the othere cargo light wires.

SB

 

Yeah I wouldnt tap the green from the cargo lights, I did it similar to SB quoted above and mine is constant lit even when the truck is off. Super bright.. gonna disconnect it later this week when I have the dash apart for the cubby hole 3 switch addition. Anyone else using a tap to the cargo lights and Mictuning or Cruiserheads4x4 switches (they seem to have the same 4 wires leaving the switch) that got this done correctly? Or wanna explain how to use those mini fuse taps? Ive been meaning to read up on em and havent had a chance.. would those work to illuminate switches for two or three new switches?

 

Sub'd

 

Well crap I definitely don't want my switch lit up when the truck is turned off

 

Well.... as I said, mine's tapped into the green wire of the Cargo Switch and it's only on when the lights are on. Too bright but at least it goes off.

It was the only wire that caused my continuity tester to come on... I wonder if the dimmer circuit doesn't have enough juice to light up my tester? It's just a simple ice-pick looking thing with a ground wire and a light bulb. I wonder if my ohm meter could lead the way?

SB

 

Check out Posi-Tap connectors, I like them MUCH more than the clamp style. I used them in my wife's old CX-5 for the LED DRL running lamp kit as well as my auxiliary LED reverse lamps. I find them much easier to use and they create a more positive connection. The only drawback is it is a "T" style connection rather than a more streamlined "in-line" connection that the standard crimp connectors give you.

 

Are these similar?

 

Yes, those are them. I got an assortment of a few different types of them. What I like is that if you make a mistake, you can back it out and reset it.

 

Thanks!

 

I just ran my ohm/volt meter over the wires coming out of the cargo switch (still looking for a tap to the dimmer). The tan wire is showing +12 volts when the the dimmer is turned down but it drops to 8.5 volts or so when the dimmer is turned up.

It doesn't make any sense to me. Thoughts?

SB

 

I finally got around to lighting up my switch. I decided to get the Posi-Tap connectors and really like the. I connected the red 2 #3 wire coming off my switch to the green wire on the cargo switch and the black #4 coming off my switch to the tan wire on the cargo switch. It functions just the way I wanted it to. Lights up with the rest of the switches, Dimes with the odometer dimmer switch, and the top part of the switch lights up when active. It also turns off when the rest are off. The top picture is with my bed speakers off and the bottom picture is with them on.

 

Mystery solved. Now I can take off my Dim-Light tape.

Thanks,

SB

 

Just to triple check, the color wires you tapped into out of the cargo light switch are:

Green = Dash Illumination
Tan = Ground

Thanks!

 

Yes green is illumination positive and tan is illumination negative

 

So I used this method and my parking lights won't turn off

 

For the illumination part of your switch? You using a relay switch?

SB

 

I went pos extra to green and neg extra to tan. I have the mic tuning wiring harnes and switch

 

Holy shit... i royally fuked up! I put the jumper to the dimmer positive. Which caused the parking lights to be on always

 

In this diagram I have to put a separate wire to the dimmer pos(green) from 6. And a separate wire from 7 to brown. And I get dimming