To regear or not to...oh who are we kidding, we are regearing!!!

So my current setup is as follows;

14' DCSB with 315/70/17's on a 6 in FabTech DB lift. I have steel IFS, Mid, Transfer and rear diff skids. On the front is a US Off Road bumper with a 10K synthetic winch. On top there is a Prinsu Rack loaded with a hard shell case filled with recovery gear, also Roto Pax and traction pads. There is a full size spare along with bed bars, a hi-lift and RTT. I also pull an old military trailer setup for Overland trips.

Now onto the reason for this thread....

I have still been running my stock 3.73 gears. Many have told me to regear but due to a short commute to work, a flat terrain and the obvious lack of concern about MPG's I never did.

Now on this past weekend outing to BMRA I managed to destroy my ring and pinion in the rear end. So I find myself in a position to upgrade. The question is, just how far do I go? I know this is always a difference in opinion depending on the person, their budget and the intended use of the rig. So here goes.....

• $5000 budget for gearing *not set in stone*
• Open to all suggestions
• Use will still be a DD but for limited miles (less than 30/day)
• Use of the truck on 3+ diamond trails 10-12 times a year

So with this information I look forward to your ideas, suggestions and envisions of what is to come

 

4.88s, master kits, ARB air lockers,

$600 ARB CKMTA12 '12V' On-Board Twin High Performance Air Compressor, Ideal for Air Lockers Locking Differentials, Tire Inflator, Air Horn, Air Tools and Pneumatic Tools.

ARB CKMTA12 dual compressor, manifold, some plumbing and wiring, even with shop labor should be well under $5k installed.

 

Just curious what kind of warranty do the local shops offer?

 

Since I have a TRD OR no ARB's for the rear. I would have to change out the rear end to the 8.4" I definetly want the bigger compressor along with a tank to allow for use of air tools. Current quote for above mentioned items (-the rear locker) $4200.

 

About 1300 front AND rear from ECGS.

 

Only shop in this area that will even touch it is Persons and I was told not to take it to them. But everyone has their own opinion of a business. I'm still waiting to hear back from them.

 

You know where I stand but I'd do the labor yourself. I'm sure Chris can help out and it would keep cost down alot.
Are you getting the ECGS quote with or without core?

 

I already ran the quote through them. The front alone is almost $2200.

 

I know my skills are not up to setting the gears without worrying. Plus I can't warranty my own work

 

Just go with ecgs with the core exchange and have the warranty, countless guys have and run gear/diff setups from ecgs and have great results.

Plus if you go that route you do everything in one day, and it's good hands on experience to have too.

 

2200? What....I literally just got a quote and after you return the cores it comes to 1300

 

Maybe I should have clarified. Below is my shopping cart. I wasn't subtracting the core plus I have the locker in there.

 

Oh didn't know you were doing the Arb!

 

I like the idea of the experience but I was under the impression that ECGS states only warranties the diff gears if it was installed by a professional shop

 

My buddy installed it himself and they warrantied it twice

 

Good to know!

 

I'm saying remove the third memebers and have them set up. Remove the new bearings from the cart. Your truck is low enough miles you won't need them. I called and talked to them and they said they only recommend them in higher mileage vehicles and would let me know if they were bad so that saved 400$ right there

 

This is what I would suggest, but I would say use the smaller compressor, and have it dedicated to the lockers, and run a separate compressor for onboard air, unless you want to drive around with the tanks full all the time. I think the ARB's will lock with 40psi (most say 80-90psi), but if your tank is empty, it isn't a simple matter of flipping the switch and having them lock instantly.

I need a locker for quick instances like backing up a hill, or getting up my driveway when its wet, and I really don't want to sit and wait till the tank hits 40psi. I run a dedicated small ARB compressor on my Rock Buggy, and the front locker locks instantly when switched on.

I would go with ARB's everyday of the week over the factory lockers.

 

Most of the guys on here installed the diffs back in themselves and they still warrantied them. I think they have a 5 year warranty. Looks your right around the price you thought you'd be when we talked last. Least you'll recoup some of that though once you send your old diffs back in. We could do the swap in a day easy....that's with beer breaks.

To save money for now, rather than get a compressor for it, just get a small co2 bottle with a regulator on it and let that lock your front. Probably get a couple of hundred locks and unlocks out of a fill. Just food for thought.

 

Seriously. My 1st gen had an Arb and now I have a elocker...it takes forever to engage and dis engage