Manual locking hub

Eh, those are actually spec'd at 12 V. *probably* ok, but who knows how they'll hold up when consistently used 25% over spec.

Doing it that way, you would have to find another source for power. Well, not a high priority at the moment. I have no worries about cutting in to the factory wiring harness, at least for testing things at this end.

 

It works perfectly great. That relay is rated up to 28VDC per the spec sheet. I originally tried the 24VDC version but it wouldn't switch at 14V. Also, I had 1 electrical engineer and 2 controls engineers help me with all of this and they all signed off on the component selection.

This wasn't really a concern for me as I didn't have a ECU or the associated power anyway. I wanted to wire it all into it's own control box separately with it's own power source.

 

28V? None of that line has a coil rated for 28. The only place in the spec sheet I see a 28 V listed is the DC voltage contact rating (max), which is what you put through the actual switch (not the coil).
There is no question that the switch can handle that amount of power (you did remember to put a diode or capacitor around the inductive load, right? Otherwise you could arc the contacts, which will shorten their life. In some high current applications, this could mean actually welding the contacts together, which means it won't turn off until you smash it.)

I can see why the 24 V didn't work -- it has a pull-in voltage of 80% nominal, which means that it won't switch on unless you supply it with at least 19.2 V, which is higher than a car should ever go.

You actually linked to the 12V one, which will switch on with as low as 9.6 V (80% of nominal) .

They all show a maximum voltage of 110% of nominal, which would max out *that* one at 13.2V. Automotive electrical system will *definitely* go higher than that -- spec is 14.7, but these things also get surges -- for instance, when you turn off something with a high electrical draw, suddenly the system voltage goes up before the alternator adjusts down its output.

So like I said, it will probably work fine, but you are overpowering the coil, so it *might* eventually fail.

Edit: given your configuration, I would be inclined to put a proper 12V regulator into the circuit before the logic components. A simple 7812 (about $0.50) should do the job. Keep the supply to the motors at unregulated car power.

 

So to simplify things is this kit basically a hybrid between 2nd gen and a late first gen with Manual Hubs ?

 

It would appear so. The magic is in the custom cv axle that mates between the 2nd gen diff and the 1 st gen hubs.

 

Wondering if I do an FJ Transfer Case swap then utilize this kit for hubs if I can get ride of the ADD setup altogether but keep IFS? I could keep the hubs locked up front when off-road predominantly and then just shift out of 2 and 4 wheel without being dependent on vacuum or actuators. I know, I know, just do SAS. SAS is beyond my capability right now. Mentally and financially.

 

Yup, that's exactly what you would do.

 

You forgot the important step: tell your kid to get out and lock the hub's shortly before you want 4wd for the first time that day.

My father used to brag about his auto-locking hubs on our 80s truck....

 

Subbed - Great work on this @Sideline Hero

 

Is anybody selling these now? Asking because it looks like sideline hero hasn't interacted with this thread in a month.

 

He around just busy and in Hawaii

 

I currently have 3 complete kits (standard length) and am in the process of producing more standard length axles and +2" axles. Sorry haven't checked in for a while, but yes I am still producing kits.

 

How much for just the custom fabbed parts and the list of factory parts?

 

Not sure if you posted this information, but what material are the shafts made from and are they heat treated?

 

I will be selling it 2 ways. One as a complete kit (hubs with complete axles) or for the guys that want to "piece" a kit together I can sell the the 2 complete cv axles and the seal spacers. You would have to source the rest of the parts. I do have part numbers I could send you also.

 

The shafts from the first 3 kits I have are genuine factory cv shafts that have been resplined and rehardened. The new shafts that I am in the process of building will be made of 4340 chromoly. They will be standard length and +2" also hardened.

 

You my idol sideline hero!

 

Ahhhhh pau!!!!

 

Hurry up with these plus 2in!!! Lol

 

Trying to!!!!