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Broken Driveshaft :(

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by kylevanhulten18, Jan 23, 2017.

Page 2 of 3
  1. Jan 23, 2017 at 1:06 PM
    #21
    Dirty Pool

    #21
    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Yes, what ClevSix said. The nut should be "captured" along with one of the spacers. Toyota feels that nut is a one time use part. Many folks including myself have reused them. It's going to be a judgement call.
    Try fitting the shaft back together after first reading the "carrier bearing replacement" post to make sure the splines have not gotten buggered up. I would recommend Toyota for the nut, spacers and the bearing. Many folks get away with aftermarket bearings and many folks have them fail early, gonna be another judgement call.

    As for the differential pinion bearing preload, there is a good chance you will be ok since this happened at a slow speed but no guarantee. Unless you really know what you are doing inside a differential there is no way for you to check this anyway. Just keep an attentive ear out for any new noises. It wouldn't hurt to check the diff oil for metal shavings or a burnt smell, both now and after 100 miles or so.
     
    Dirty Pool, Jan 23, 2017
    #21
    ClevSix likes this.
  2. Jan 23, 2017 at 1:45 PM
    #22
    10MGM

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    10MGM Well-Known Member

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    I would also closely inspect driveline u joint flange eyes for cracks at diff end. Lots of leverage when driveline flailing around.
     
    10MGM, Jan 23, 2017
    #22
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  3. Jan 23, 2017 at 1:57 PM
    #23
    kylevanhulten18

    #23
    kylevanhulten18 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks man will do. I'll order the parts tonight. Just have to get it to my house now !
     
    kylevanhulten18, Jan 23, 2017
    #23
  4. Jan 23, 2017 at 1:57 PM
    #24
    kylevanhulten18

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    kylevanhulten18 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll make sure to inspect those !thanks man yea didn't feel too good when it was driving and thudding sround
     
    kylevanhulten18, Jan 23, 2017
    #24
  5. Jan 24, 2017 at 9:09 AM
    #25
    frizzman

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    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    as stated, unbolt driveshaft from rear pinion. MARK the position. put it in 4wd and go home. no binding issues as the transfer case is only powering the front wheels. put your emergencies on if you don't feel like driving the speed limit.
     
    frizzman, Jan 24, 2017
    #25
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  6. Jan 24, 2017 at 9:36 AM
    #26
    jbrandt

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    jbrandt Made you look

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    If that's what the manual says, then no, don't go over 55mph because you just engaged 4x4... But it beats getting towed.
     
    jbrandt, Jan 24, 2017
    #26
  7. Jan 24, 2017 at 9:46 AM
    #27
    Andres

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    Andres Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Yes you can but not recommended over 55mph.
    I'd remove the drive shaft and run on 4WD and not drive it anymore until the repair has been made.
    Looks like the drive shaft was improperly installed.
     
    Andres, Jan 24, 2017
    #27
  8. Jan 24, 2017 at 5:16 PM
    #28
    UtahTacoma02

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    UtahTacoma02 Well-Known Member

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    FWIW I have read on write ups for the carrier bearing assembly to torque that nut down to 134 ft/lbs to seat the CB properly then back the nut off and re torque to 54 ft/lbs and remember to stake the nut as well to prevent it from backing out. I have had no problems.
     
    UtahTacoma02, Jan 24, 2017
    #28
  9. Jan 24, 2017 at 9:00 PM
    #29
    kylevanhulten18

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    kylevanhulten18 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know where I can get the Nut and the 2 spacers just want to go with a new setup to be safe ?? Or part # thanks:)
     
    kylevanhulten18, Jan 24, 2017
    #29
  10. Jan 25, 2017 at 4:52 AM
    #30
    mechanicjon

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    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Dealership
     
    mechanicjon, Jan 25, 2017
    #30
  11. Jan 25, 2017 at 5:08 AM
    #31
    nzbrock

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    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    nzbrock, Jan 25, 2017
    #31
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  12. Feb 2, 2017 at 3:40 PM
    #32
    kylevanhulten18

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    kylevanhulten18 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    **UPDATE**
    Parts just came in
    -Carrier Bearing
    -Nut for driveshaft
    Ran into a couple problems disassembling the flange IMG_1544.jpg
    Threads seem to be flattened so I can't get the Nut to even thread on it.
    IMG_1551.jpg these threads are flattened also so can't put the piece on all the way ( this is the price I'm going to try and file down before buying a new one -_-IMG_1561.jpg And then noticed the flange that connects to the threads behind that spline that connected to the front part of the driveshaft is also flattened and all sorts of fucked up. Bought a file and am going to try to file down the flattened sides on the flange so it can seat in but might just have to drop another $50. Hopefully can rethread the other piece. Any advice ?? Lol
     
    kylevanhulten18, Feb 2, 2017
    #32
  13. Feb 2, 2017 at 3:44 PM
    #33
    kylevanhulten18

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    kylevanhulten18 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    IMG_1548.jpg
     
    kylevanhulten18, Feb 2, 2017
    #33
  14. Feb 2, 2017 at 3:45 PM
    #34
    devinzz1

    #34
    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    The threads left are where the nut will be so that's not to big of a deal. Just go to work with a file.

    The flange id probably replace. Dont want any slop there.
     
    devinzz1, Feb 2, 2017
    #34
  15. Feb 2, 2017 at 3:46 PM
    #35
    kylevanhulten18

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    kylevanhulten18 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking of using a tap and die kit on the thread that the Nut screws on too, Damn I'm bummed about that flange. Just want to drive my truck lol
     
    kylevanhulten18, Feb 2, 2017
    #35
  16. Feb 2, 2017 at 3:51 PM
    #36
    kylevanhulten18

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    kylevanhulten18 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Could I hammer the flange on with a dead blow, until it's seated all the way in ? It stops with about a centimeter of room left IMG_1565.jpgIMG_1564.jpg
     
    kylevanhulten18, Feb 2, 2017
    #36
  17. Feb 2, 2017 at 4:37 PM
    #37
    KdF

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    KdF Old Rednek Type

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    You could, but if you hit it wrong and it screws up, you'll never get it back off.
     
    KdF, Feb 2, 2017
    #37
  18. Feb 2, 2017 at 4:38 PM
    #38
    mechanicjon

    #38
    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    You could tap it on. But you need to replace that carrier bearing. It's bad! They make what is called a thread file. That would be your easiest and cheapest way to straighten the threads up.
     
    mechanicjon, Feb 2, 2017
    #38
  19. Feb 2, 2017 at 4:39 PM
    #39
    mechanicjon

    #39
    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    mechanicjon, Feb 2, 2017
    #39
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  20. Feb 2, 2017 at 4:40 PM
    #40
    mechanicjon

    #40
    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    You'd have to use a puller
     
    mechanicjon, Feb 2, 2017
    #40
    Dalandser likes this.
Page 2 of 3

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