Another Rounded Rusty Bolt Head Issue Thread - Skidplate

Hi, I rounded rusty bolt head securing the skidplate (2001 tacoma trd) [1st turn with correct 12mm 6 point socket]. I've included pictures [pics found on internet and not actually from my pickup] to indicate it's location, which is in a recessed area with a small opening exposing the bolt head. It's the last bolt to be removed in order for me to start the timing belt/water pump replacement project. Advice would be very appreciative. Things attempted:

-Banging on a Craftsman bolt out extractor sockets [like from the link below] onto the bolt head. But, the grip failed to get solid grip. BTW, this worked quite well on another rounded bolt towards the front of the skidplate, where it was easier to torch the nut.
Craftsman bolt out remover:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952166000P


-Banging on various socket sizes [metric or SAE, 6 and 12 points]. Over numerous attempts, head mutated more of course.

-Propane torch around head and the frame [crossbar?] for about 5 minutes. I can't access the nut side as it is inside the crossbar.

*It has gotten harder to grip with either the bolt-out or regular sockets, even with some moderate banging. I don't have car ramps anymore to raise the car up to get more hammer leverage.


-----------Next steps considered:
*** Access to bolt is limited to its head and mainly only from underneath looking straight upward
*Using torch with steps below [and cold water squirts for shock???]
*Did try to squirt penetration oil [liquid wrench, Acetone + ATF], but I don't see how the liquid would be able to penetrate given the bolt's location

-JB Weld a cheap socket overnight

-Easy out bolt extractor. But, most of the use case with these are on broken bolt head. Would this be viable on the head? Since there's rust on thre head, would there be high risk of the head breaking off [which I don't really mind in this case as that would allow the plate to be removed!]
+what size extractor would be best to buy [#1, #2?]. Never used it, but youtube instructions seem to be doable.


-???Dremel + cutting blade & Chisel/screwdriver: location accessibility and angle seems impossible


-???Chisel + hammer: doesn't look possible with the location accessibility

-"???Welding a nut: wish I have access to welding equipment. Perhaps, if all fails, i might have to go to an auto body shop and pay for that. I wonder what the price would that be [California]?


Many Thanks! Oh, additionally, would the bottom plate behind that needs to be removed for my timing belt/water pump project? I might do it as there is much oil crud on it.

 

Try posting up on your local forums, I'm sure you could get someone to tack weld a nut or socket on for a six pack

 

sub'd, cause mine is stuck too. i'm strongly considering just drilling the damn things out and re-tapping the holes.

i ended up just doing my timing belt job with the skid still on there. a few bolts took some more maneuvering when it came to the ac compressor and the mount behind it, but i got it all done.

if you do try the torch and shock, give it a go with an inverted (upside down) compressed air duster. much colder.

 

Man I think u have hit all the old school tricks.
Ether jack the truck up so u have enough room to try split it w a chisel.
Or find someone to help w a welder.
Or cut the skid off w a grinder and buy a new one lol.

 

And FWIW buy nine new bolts from the dealer and use them to reinstall the covers. (I would coat the bolt threads with some copper seal for easier removal in the future.) I didn't get my bolts from the dealer but from Lowes. The threads are very, very close to the OEM bolts but not an exact match. They did thread in without problems albeit they were a smidge tighter, and the bolt heads were 1 millimeter size smaller than the OEM bolts.

Do it right. Get the OEM bolts and save yourself some grief when you remove the cover to change the oil filter.

 

Sorry for not having replied. I was busy with the bolt issue and going to allergist appointment. Anyways, FINALLY FINALLY FINALLY removed the bastard bolt!

I tried:
-torch and water spray shock + the craftsman bolt extractor. No grip
-an easy out. Broke that! It was the appropriate size for the bolt shaft but, I think too small for the bolt head. Drilling it was a royal pain. Perhaps close to an hour to get only about 1/8 of an inch with various drill sizes.
-tried a chisel and hammer. Didn't have the right angle. this mangled the head quite a bit
-on my last attempt before calling it for the night, I decided to try the craftsman extractor again but with a longer socket extension. After about 1 minute of carefully trying not to agitate with too much movement, gave it some slow and deliberate pressure, the bastard came lose. I think the combined hammering the longer extension and the mangling from the chisel allowed the Craftsman extractor to get a better grip.

So, after much cursing, I finally won the battle. Tomorrow, I will begin with the timing belt project and hope not to encounter such a battle. Wish me luck!

Thanks for your advice. Oh, I included a pic of the 2 bastards!

 

Just a useless trivial point now, but......

Wouldn't heat and quench make the bolt hard? Before using the extractor I would heat and air cool.

 

That is a tough location, even to cut them with a toarch.

 

Good for you!! I went through a similar procedure years ago on my 1998 Limited. IIRC it was by slow and steady pressure that I was finally able to get the bolt (the one 'way up inside) out.