OEM/ToyTec 3 Inch Lift or Bilstein 5100 3 Inch Suspension Lift

I have a 2005 Tacoma 4x4 crew cab. I am looking to put a lift kit on it to get a little more ground clearance while 4-wheel driving. I considering a Old Man Emu/Toytec 3 inch suspension lift for about $1000 and a Bilstein 5100 3 inch suspension lift for about $1800. I am looking for a strong durable lift that will perform well romping around in the desert. Long story short I am wanting the pros and cons and any suggestions/opinions with these lifts. Pictures are appreciated!

Specs
Old Man Emu/Toytec 3 inch lift
Front shocks
90021 for stock weight
Front coils
885 medium coils
3 inch front top plate
spacers
Front differential drop
Rear shocks
OEM 60091
2" toytec add a leaf
Rear shock stone guards

For more information https://bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyo...N-DP-66b3swyk9gCqSoYym2CMrvXjDvIYexoCGP_w_wcB

Bilstein 1500 3 inch lift
Front shocks
Rated for 600 lbs
Diff drop kit
Rear shocks
ToyTec boss
2" toytec add a leaf
Light Racing UCA's
Rear bump stop spacers
Maybe the 1 inch body lift

For more information
https://bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyota-tacoma/2005-2015/ultimate-lift-kit-for-2005-up-tacoma/

 

There's loads of good info on these two lifts as they're common choices for the TW crowd, and since you're not asking anything too specific about either, searching would yield you more info than you're going to get starting a new thread on a well covered topic.

That said, the break down in my opinion is:

OME is a 'softer riding' shock over the 5100, but both are comfortable when used correctly (not pre-loaded) and perfectly durable setups.

With both lifts being a full 3", there's a good chance you'll need new UCAs for alignment and/or clearance, so not sure why your OME setup doesn't reflect that. Sticking to a 2.5" with either setup will save you A LOT of money, so consider that.

Front diff drops aren't really that recommended for the 2nd gen Tacomas. It rotates the diff rather than actually dropping it and in some cases, people even strongly recommend against it. If you want to spend that money still, the center bearing drop spacers are money spent better in most cases.

To answer your next lift questions:

2.5" fits 265/75R16s comfortable with no real rubbing
3" will fit 285s but require cab mount trimming and some other fitment trimming

4.5" (or less) backspacing on wheels is needed and 0MM or more negative offset is ideal (I'd go with -6MM or -12MM).

 

I've been curious about the same thing. But really don't want a spacer lift. At a local lift shop today I was inquiring about doing 3 inches with the 5100s. They assured me that 2.5" was the max for the bilsteins. So I'm curious how they achieve 3"s. Looks in the pictures like there's a 1/2" spacer built into the coilover. Personally, I'm tempted to just go 5100s with stock springs to keep spacers out if the pictures.

 

So what kind of side affects do people get with a front diff drop? I though you would want the cv's with least amount of angle to avoid premature damage?

I'm curious about this too...most suspension retailers post 2.75"-3" lift with ome 887 and bilstein 5100 on first notch setting as expected lift for double cabs. Should 5100s not be used with this much lift? Or is viper's shop not taking into account the adjustability of the 5100s?

 

885's are good for 2" of lift. Don't stack a 3" spacer on top that would be way to tall. If you want 3" get 887's or 888's. Toytec is over priced. @HeadStrong Off-Road will hook you up.

 

Side effects are it ROTATES your front diff, rather then actually dropping it (or at least that's the tale I've read over and over here, no first hand experience). The resulting rotation does nothing to fix CV angles and really only results is less ground clearance at the diff. That's why it's considered wasted money.

Concerning the lift questions, the examples you give achieve lift in the front of the truck by two main methods (there are other methods, but the two listed are the ones I'll address). Using taller coil springs (like the 887) OR using an adjustable height lower spring perch (Bilstein 5100).

Installing a taller, than factory, coil spring (like the OME 887) will keep the strut extended in a higher/longer state, and raise the distance of the upper coil mount according to the extra height of the coil, which provides lift. Some struts can operate at this extended height, some need replaced with struts that will operate in this new extended range of travel. But the struct itself isn't doing anything to provide lift, it's just conforming to the new range of operation.

Installing Bilstein 5100s struts provides a lift by raising the mounting point of the lower coil perch. The adjustable rings on the body of the strut can be raised and mounted higher on the strut body, which effectively raises the height of the coil, which raises the height of the upper coil mount, providing lift. This method uses the factory coil spring.

So, when retailers post 2.75-3" lifts with 887 and Bilsteins set on the first notch, they are using BOTH methods to gain lift. Longer coil springs offering the first 2.25-2.5" of lift and the Bilsteins achieving the other 1/4"-1/2" lift, when set on the first raised notch.

It's not recommended to go MORE than these settings as you'll be asking the suspension of the truck to operate fully with the strut at a near MAXED out length, which means you'll cause damage. The strut can only extend so far, if you've already extended it 3" with the lift, you're left very few inches of travel left before it maxes out.

Sometimes 2.5" lifts achieve closer to 3" of lift by adding a spacer ABOVE the strut and coil assembly, which raises the upper coil mount height and provides lift, but isn't a spacer that robs strut travel due to being places outside of the coil assembly.

 

Agreed on the lift suggestions, don't cause damage by not understanding the way the coils/struts work in combo. Stick to the retailers recommendations if you don't want to do some research to understand why the limitations are what they are (not an criticism, just a suggestion).

That said, my opinion of ToyTec vs HeadStrong differs from Juforrest. Both are truly great companies, but I disagree that ToyTec is overpriced (at least in my experience based on the setup you're looking at). I bought my Eibach 2.5" lift coils, Bilstein 5100s and AAL from ToyTec and was very pleased with the price (no major difference from HeadStrong) and their service. Headstrong might've been $5-10 different, IIRC, but ToyTec was closer to me and thus shipping was quicker and cheaper and their reputation is the same; reliable and honest. Shop both and pick which one suits your wants and needs best. Both, IMO, are perfectly worthy retailers.

 

Not sure why I don't have better pictures of my truck post lift, but here's about the best I have that shows my setup: 2.5" up front, 2" in rear. Eibach coil springs paired with Bilstein 5100s (set at 0 or factory height) in the front, 2" AAL and FSB leaf springs with Bilstein 5100 in rear. Running SCS Ray 10's with 265/75R16's.

It's a mild setup, nothing drastic or to brag about, but it did give me that extra ground clearance I was looking for as well as some personal preferences on handling (I'm a big fan of the Bilstein 5100s). I've also removed my front sway bar though, and mud flaps for clearance/damage avoidance.

 

When I was shopping for BP51's toytec was over $200 more plus they wanted to charge shipping.

 

Thanks a lot for explaining it. It makes sense and most of this is what I thought already. I will be sure to comply with strut setting recommendations to avoid maxing out.

 

You might be right, wasn't trying to say they weren't more expensive but I didn't think it was drastic (which I'd say $200 IS drastic).

I just compared a complete kit with Bilstein 5100, coils and an AAL and ToyTec goes for $699 (plus shipping?) and Headstrong comes in at $649 and free shipping. They have slightly different parts (coils are Eibach/toytec brand at TT, with TT AAL and OME coils and Deaver AAL at HeadStrong), but are comparable. So even in that case, HS winds by probably $75-100 with shipping considered.

I don't remember it being that different when I ordered. I recall being ok with the minor cost difference because I desired the Eibach coils that ToyTec offered, for their slightly lighter spring rating vs the OME coils that had a higher spring rate. If those details of the kit aren't a bother to the consumer and the price difference remains as it sits now, then my opinion can change and HeadStrong should be considered first. They're both worthy of TacomaWorlds business...so if HeadStrong is notably cheaper, and you're happy with the differences in what they offer in their kit, then I'd know who I'd buy from if I were buying a kit today.

 

No problem, it's something I had to wrap my head around when planning my lift and helped me understand the dynamics of everything to make sure I both ordered the right parts for what I needed as well as made sure I got the result from those parts that I was looking for!