Tiffany the Taco

I also installed a blue sea fast charge usb port as well as a pass through usb connected to my stereo. https://amzn.to/2Tz5Iwk

had to shave down the switch slot and the small sides of the blue sea port to make it fit. Since I was replacing one of the 12v ports I was able to split the harness in half and just stick them onto the blade terminals.

 

Just came across your build. Nice clean work so far. Giving me so great ideas. Subbed for more

 

Another mod in progress:

I located a SPDT 3 position Toyota switch to use for my reverse lights. It is a steering fog light switch from a JDM MR2. Part number is 84160-17020 but you won't be able to buy it from any USDM dealer. I got it from an eBay seller based in the UK (had to search on the uk eBay). Unforntuately it did not come with a wiring harness but I think I have determined which Toyota connector will work with it. I found the Toyota wiring connector reference somewhere on the forum and started looking through all of the 4 wire female connectors until I found one that looked like it might fit. This is part number 90980-10504. This also needs 4 terminals with wires, which are part numbers 82998-12170. I measured the width of the male terminal and it is 2.0mm, but the 10504 listing says 2.3mm. I'm still not sure if it will work but I will order it anyway and see. I have attached the connector manual for reference.



I am also going to check out the picknpull this weekend to see if I can find a matching connector. I found through google searching that the Toyota Sienna rear window motor uses this connector, so I will bring my switch and test fit. I've attached a picture I found on eBay.


EDIT: After further testing I have determined that the switch only switches ground.

I guess this makes sense since one wire would go to the fog lights and the other would go to the steering motor for the lights. So in either mode the lights are still active. I am not sure how I can wire this to work with my current reverse lights. My current switch is setup to switch the 12+ source from either the battery or reverse circuit. I will have to do some brainstorming.

Pin1: Ground
Pin2: ground to fog
Pin3: ground to fog motor
Pin4: 12+ for switch lights

position 1 connects pin1 to pin2
position 2 is open
position 3 connects pin1 to pin2 and pin3

 

Nice build!

 

So I ended up taking apart the steering fog switch and essentially rewiring it. I started by desoldering the green LEDs and soldered new red ones in backwards. Now everything has a common ground. I also had to push one of the lugs into the plastic and jump another connection since before I would get either 1 or 2 outputs. My goal was to create a switch with 2 12v+ inputs and output only 1 through the final pin. As a side effect of the wiring scheme, the "ON" side LED will illuminate whenever that pin has power, no matter the position. There isn't an easy way to remedy this, but it is fine with me since I will know if I am in reverse and have the manual power to the lights turned on.

In the following photos the multimeter is connected to the output pin that will trigger the aftermarket reverse lights

+12v from stock reverse lights in "OFF" position


+12v from stock reverse lights in "ON" position


+12v from battery in "連動" or "Interlock/Linkage" position


+12v from stock reverse lights and battery in "連動" or "Interlock/Linkage" position

 

Got my 3 way switch installed:

 

Also installed a leather steering wheel wrap by wheelskins. It was definitely a pain in the ass. I started trying to do a baseball stitch, but it was too difficult to keep it pulled tight, so I just went with what the instructions said. It is so much nicer than the stock wheel. The picture makes the color look lighter than it actually is. It is definitely lighter than the stock color, but I am still happy with it. I went with the OAK color btw.

 

I think it took me two hours to do my wheelskin. Looks great and I agree that it really helps the stock steering wheel. Gives it more width and a better finish than a $10 slip on cover.

 

Yes it's WAY better than the stock wheel. It makes the wheel thickness the perfect size.

 

Finally moved my blue sea aux fuse box yo make it more accessible. The hood just barely clears it, but it works.

 

I greased my driveshaft slip joint so I decided to flex out the suspension to get the grease to move around. The passenger rear tire came off the ground a little bit. I have some wheelers superbumps that are going on this weekend since my stock bumpstops don't reach.

 

I installed some Wheelers Superbumps and decided to see if they would reach the strike plates.

 

Very nice!

 

Do you have any rubbing issues with the new bump stops? I always rub my rear flares in the front and it destroys them
This build is looking fantastic!

 

I've never had issues with rubbing, even before I added the bump stops. 255/85 on FJ Trail Teams seems to be the perfect setup

 

I installed some front Wheelers Superbumps that are designed for a 2nd gen. At ride height they are almost touching the frame but they are designed to compress a lot more than the stock ones. At the same time I decided to remove my anti-sway bar to see what the difference would be. I had previously removed it when I installed the coilovers but I did not like it on the highway. Now with the superbumps, the sway is limited and feels much more stable without the bar. I have attached some pictures of the from bumps at full stuff. They can definitely compress more under impact, but this is as far as I could get since the rear wheel started coming off the ground. I may try trimming them a little shorter in the future. You can see the front stock bumps still in place at the front of the control arm.

 

Changed my window switches to red LEDs

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4runner-auto-up-down-windows.380826/#post-14378524

 

Took apart my ECT switch and soldered in a red LED. I also had to scrape off the green backing behind the ECT letters.

 

So about a month ago I had my truck into the dealer to replace a rear axle bearing and fix a leaking oil pan gasket. Yesterday I dropped it off again for them to redo both those items. There was still play on the rear axle bearing (I have an audible clunking sound when coasting) and the oil pan gasket was leaking once again.

At the end of the day they gave me a loaner 2017 Tacoma. I really hate this color.

 

I acquired a key light ring from @koditten and installed it yesterday. My truck is actually prewired for it and I found the plug at the base of the steering column. I still need to get the trim ring and replace the light with an LED. The ring lights when you open then door and turns off about 5 seconds after closing the door.

I'll get more pictures once I swap out the bulb. You can see the plug down there in the picture.