Which audio processor?

If I'm wanting to keep my stock head unit in my 2013 tacoma, but am wanting to upgrade the audio system by adding speakers, an amp and sub, which audio processor would you guys recommend? Thanks

 

I'm in the middle of working on an audio build using the factory head unit right now. I went with the Audio Control D-4.800, it is on pre-order for another 11 days but is the best combo I've found:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161D4800/AudioControl-D-4-800.html

Admittedly it is a bit expensive, but it is a top notch integrated Digital Signal Processor and amp in one saving the need to buy a separate amp and saving space simplifying the install and reducing the wiring, and the audio control amps have an excellent signal to noise ratio of 102db. It provides an additional pre-amp out with 8.5v which means in addition to having more than enough power to drive all the speakers, the pre-amp out is strong enough it could easily be split and sent to 2 seperate subwoofers.

I originally went with an aftermarket unit to get more power, with the preamps and more camera inputs, but the compromises were less than ideal. Steering wheel controls were only partially functional, the UI of the new stereo was busy and it just didn't feel as polished.

 

Thanks for the info. Definitely looks like a quality amp. What kinda setup you planning to run with this processor/amp? Considering purchasing this instead of the 2 jl amps I was planning to buy.

 

What amps were you looking at, and what was your plan? 2 amps plus a DSP?

I'm currently planning Rockford Fosgate Power 6.75" components up front and the same non-component 6.75" speakers in the rear. I've had great success with their punch line driven off aftermarket head units in the past. The amp is actually more power than I really need/want, but seems to be the best available for combining the DSP and amp in one. I was then going to run twin 8" shallow self contained powered subwoofers under the seats, because I do not want to give up behind the rear seat store space. Some might question giving up the 6x9s in the door, going to 6.75s up front reduces woofer area by 18%, but the twin 8s under the seats will more than make up for it. But I would rather go to 6.75s vs give up the door components, as the 6x9 component options are limited. Note that keeping components in the doors and running an amp, it would be good to run new speaker wire and keep the crossovers for the components in the cab, vs trying to mount them in the door.

 

I was looking at the JL jx series amps. The mono 500 to power a JL 12tw3 or a 10tw3 sub. Whichever one fit best behind the rear sears with its enclosure as I don't mind removing the plastic behind the seats. And the other amp was gonna be the JL jx400 4 channel amp to power some 6.75 component speakers up front and a 6.5 speaker in the back. Still deciding on speakers though. Been looking at the Rockford punch series speakers, alpine type r speakers, infinity reference, jbl gto, and Polk dB speakers. Definitely looking for quality over loudness. As I feel a JL tw3 sub will provide enough bass for me. I see you've had the punch series speakers. What did you think about them? Also how do you plan to fit the two 8 inch subs under your seats? Would they be in the plastic storage bins? I'm assuming you should keep the crossovers for the components inside the cab so that you can change the settings easier... I'm still a novice when it comes to car audio as this will be my first aftermarket car audio system upgrade. Just doing a ton of research and learning as I go.

 

MiniDSP C-DSP for the low budget solution (still better than many priced far higher)

or the 'but I'd really like to have that one though' Helix DSP

I use the DSP in the 80PRS. While it isn't as expansive as a stand-alone, it's very impressive if you don't mind a single DIN HU

 

Check out the JL RD amps. They appear to be almost the same amps as the XD, but with a bit less in the processing department...which you don't need with an external processor.

 

The punch series speakers are solid. That was the setup I've run in my last 1st gen double cab Tacoma and the results were impressive in both sound quality and volume with clarity. As to the crossovers, I figure they are more set once and forget them for my use. But if you mount them in the cab you will need to run new wiring, vs mounting in the doors where you can reuse some of the stock wiring.

One of the problems of using the OEM head unit is the lower frequencies are completely flat in the audio spectrum. Another way around it without a DSP is to use an amp that is designed for that purpose that can backfill the lower frequencies, like this one. But I would still recommend a DSP.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC4800/AudioControl-LC-4-800.html?tp=115

The underseat subs I was referring to were ones like these:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PS8/Rockford-Fosgate-PS-8.html
or cheaper:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PTD/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PTD.html?tp=114

They won't shake the ground, but 2 will make your mirrors unusable and are more than enough for someone not looking disturb the neighborhood IMO.

 

@rob feature
Thanks for the info. I looked up the processors you mentioned, but I don't understand much about what they do exactly. Lol. Still new to this car audio world. I like those jl Rd amps though. However I'm still on the fence about keeping the headunit vs switching to an aftermarket one. Been looking at the pioneer avhx5800bhs double din. But I have heard that you lose some functionality with the steering wheel controls which is my main concern. On the bright side though is that I have a 2013 tacoma and the entune and steering wheel controls aren't as integrated into the system as the 2014+ toyotas. As I only have blue tooth connectivity and call features available.

 

When I went to an aftermarket head unit, I lost the ability to jump presets. Channel up/down went to frequency instead of preset favorites, which was not useful at all. There were also other annoying things like the head unit would have an annoying warning on the screen when going into reverse, whereas the stock one didn't. The aftermarket head unit display would also go black during boot up for a second if you backed up immediately after startup, and then would go to a no-signal detected blue screen when shifting into drive before returning to the main UI. Just felt very unpolished compared to OEM.

 

Thanks for the details. I read some similar things happening to other tacoma owners as well. What kind of headunit did you have? Also what harness did you use? I've read that the main culprit could be the harness when losing certain functions in our trucks.

 

Don't let what you read discourage you. I just installed a pioneer ahv2800 in my 2012 that I got from crutchfield along with their crux wiring harness and I retained all my steering wheel controls. All buttons/functions are exactly the same as before. It's actually a great head unit.

 

That's definitely encouraging. Do u remember what harness they supplied? Or was it the ones they include in the install packages when you add a headunit to your cart? Still weighing my options out between stock vs aftermarket headunits. Also how do you like that pioneer radio? I'm looking at the 5800 myself.

 

I had a Kenwood DDX793, if I were to do it again I would go with the DDX9903s which has a better interface and carplay. I'll double check the harness brand.

The 2012 has less steering wheel controls than the 2014-2015 which have additional controls for the touchscreen head unit, which I think complicates things. I believe crutchfield does not offer a crux harness that is compatible with the later model trucks.

 

Yea the harness was the

$62 CRUX SWRTY-61S Install New CAR Stereo in Select 2003-2013 Toyota Vehicles Toy

CRUX SWRTY-61S. It's not free with the purchase but the price is discounted. The kits is about $50 extra and comes with the harness, dash kit and USB connector to retain factory USB outlet. I like the 2800. It doesn't have HD radio or motorized face but is really similar to the 5800 otherwise.

Edit- just saw the post above. Didn't know the steering wheel controls were different so ignore what I said. Didn't mean to give out the wrong info

 

Thanks for the info once again. I've been looking at kenwood, pioneer and processors online every chance I get, my heads about to explode. Lol. I'll take a look at that kenwood ddx990 as well.
I knew the 2012 model tacoma still had the non touch screen unit but had steering controls as well as the reverse camera in the rear view mirror I believe, instead of in the headunit like the 2014+ tacomas. 2013 tacomas are also a little unique as my 2013 also had the reverse camera in the rear view mirror but had the touch screen "entune" system with bluetooth but it wasn't as integrated as the later models I believe as well (didn't have vehicle diagnostics etc). My steering controls also only included volume up and down, up and down buttons for presets/changing songs, a mode button and call/hang up button. I'm not sure how that compares to later models though. I'm not too sure how this will affect my stock controls/features IF I decide on a aftermarket unit compared to the 2014+ models. Thanks for checking the harness number as well. I checked to see what harness crutchfield recommended for the pioneer 5800 and it was the

$68 crux swrty-61n radio replacement with SWC & OE RVC retention (for toyota vehicles 2012-up)

crux swrty-61n instead of the 61-s. As well as a USB port cable. Still unsure of how well it would work though.

No problem man. I knew the 2012 tacomas were different, but also similar in some ways when it came to their audio systems as I mentioned above. Also the recommended harness for my 2013 was different (crux 61n instead of a 61s like yours. Good to hear that the pioneer 2800 you got is similar to the 5800. Were you able to bypass the ebrake to watch videos while driving though? Thanks again.

 

Yes I was able to bypass it. I got the bypass off Amazon. Worked great