I made a thing for switches because the thing I wanted didn't exist.

I just got mine it looks awesome, I cannot wait to install it.

 

Just ordered a 3-switch panel for my 2016 TRD Sport! It looks great and I'm sure it'll be just what I'm looking for!

I bought some other stuff as well to make my life (keeping my truck able to be swapped back to stock) easier.

The 28 Pin head unit harness extension https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ter-and-oem-style-camera-gps-switches.470698/

And switches...

I'm getting a stealthy LED light bar for the bumper gap

$24 CH4X4 Push Switch for Toyota Tacoma 3rd Gen 12V 3Amp - Led Light Bar Symbol 2 - Red LED

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8OB2K...lid=26L1I3HWVZXTF&coliid=I1GLKI0RMLIFNY&psc=1

I'm using the harness extension above to do the anytime rearview camera and maybe the nav lockout mod

$22 CH4X4 Push Switch for Toyota Tacoma, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser, Fortuner, Hilux, 4Runner, Prado 12V 3Amp - Rear Camara Symbol 2 - White LED

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017C2ZSV...lid=26L1I3HWVZXTF&coliid=I1ZUSAHRKRA433&psc=1

$22 CH4X4 Push Switch for Toyota Tacoma, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser, Fortuner, Hilux, 4Runner, Prado 12V 3Amp - Press to Turn ON Something Symbol - Amber Led

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTKJ3Z...lid=26L1I3HWVZXTF&coliid=I3JI1VPPG948IX&psc=1

with some Wago 222-415 Lever nuts to run LED/switch power for relays http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-WAGO-222-415-Lever-Nuts-5-port-Cage-Clamp-marrett-/140374632242?rmvSB=true

Now to make a mounting bracket/panel for my HID ballasts, igniters, Relays, LED bar Relay(s), reverse light (under bumper) relay, or find a way to neatly combine them into a single (off the shelf) unit.

 

I haven't personally seen the white switches but the blue is a fairly decent match, little bright. But if it's too bright and distracting you don't have to wire up the lower led, then the only time you'd have the light is when you've turned the switch on.

 

hey friends, I am going to be installing the light bar and ditch lights tomorrow and wanted to know what add a fuses I would need to get to wire in the caliraised mictuning style switches into the stock cali harnesses? Also wondering which fuses to tap in the cab. Thanks again for all of your help and OP thanks for making this awesome little product!

 

Switch install in progress, and hoped you guys had some insight.

I've got 4 CH4x4 switches to install - 3 will go in the fantastic Shapeways 3-switch plate. One switch will go in the existing group below that, where one "hole" has a factory blockoff plate now.

I am wiring each switch with it's own fuse, to a marine grade busbar under the hood. Same with an independent ground for each switch. Yes. Overkill. ...but I will have this truck for the next 20 years and want to keep options open.

Of course..... I want to tap the dash lights so that each switch lights up. I found a thread a while back (can't find it now) that says to tap the wire running to the rear bed light switch. I believe it was the "green wire or green-yellow wire"... something like that. I'm still searching for that old post.

If any of you have tapped that switch/wire recently - do you know what gauge it is? I am guessing somewhere in the 18-22... and, do any of you have a preferred splice / tap that you've used? I've had some bad luck with the "fold over" splice/crimp connectors before.



Thanks for the insight.

 

You need to run power (12V, Ground) to the switch. This is not what is powering the lights, This is for the LEDs on the switches and to trigger the coils on the relays for the ditch lights and light bar. You can run an add-a-circuit from the panel on the left side of your dash with a small (1A) fuse. Again, this power is NOT FOR THE DITCH LIGHTS OR LIGHT BAR.

The switch then should lead to a relay. The relay is going to be hooked directly into the battery. I hook up positive to the relay and run the ground directly to the light I'm powering. This should be fused as close to the battery as possible. Figure out the wattage of your light bars and do the math to figure out what size fuse you will need.

Watts/Volts=Amps

EX: A quick google of a 30" led bar says it's rated at 180W. 180W/12V=15A. It may actually run 180W/15A but it's doubtful. I would try a 15A fuse with this and see how it goes. if it blows, try a 20A.

For your ditch lights, if you're doing the 2x2 LED blocks, they range from 12W and up. That means at a minimum you'll need 1A per 2x2 block.

 

yes works great you can dim the switches

 

Chad,

Thank you so much for the response. So for the Caliraised harness and soldering in the new switch I will need to tap the correct fuse based on the wattage the switch is powering? The stock @CaliRaisedLed harnesses have a relay contained, so really I just need to run the add a fuse so the switch lights up correct? If i chose not to run the add a fuse and just splice in the switch will the lights on the switch not light up but the actual pods and bar light up? I hope this makes sense and I apologize for the new comer response.

 

So I wouldn't recommend tapping an existing fuse in your dash on the fuse panel unless you know what you're tapping into and what it will effect if it pops. I would look for an empty circuit and get a (correctly sized) add a circuit. I'm not sure what size fuses they are (I haven't bought mine yet, but I think its a low profile mini fuse like

$8 Lumision ADD Circuit Blade Style ATT Low Profile Mini FUSETAP Fuse TAP + Fuse Set 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20 AMPS

https://www.amazon.com/Shipping-CIR...&sr=8-2&keywords=low+profile+mini+blade+fuses). Put that added circuit on a 1a fuse for the switch lights and relay triggers.

The add a fuse is not just for the LED in the switch, it's also for the 12v trigger to the relay. Basically a low current 12v signal to close a coil and make high current contacts.

Look at it this way. A switch interrupts the signal telling the relay to turn the lights on. If you turn the switch off, the relay goes off. The LED inside is powered by that 12V signal AND a ground (somewhere in your dash). I may have forgotten this earlier as well.

Does this clear it up a little?

 

Anyone know if shapeway or ch4x4 is going to have any promos this month?

 

I don't recall ever getting advance notice about Shapeways sales but when I do find out about relevant sales I always post them here.

 

I tried to jump on and order the narrow 3 switch plate.. but black isn't an option? Are they just out right now?

EDIT... refreshed the page and black showed up.. must have been an error on my end

 

I ordered the three opening switch plate, but my switches don't fit in it. If you want to get a discount on the three opening plate, I will sell it to whoever PM's me first.

 

Sent PM.

 

hi... i finally found you OP; as in someone who makes this! at any rate, do you have covers to cover up the empty slots until ready to use?

 

Cant you just use blanks?

 

i would assume so, but where can one find these "blanks". or the name to google of these "blank" items.

 

Toyota parts counter is where most people get them, I can make a part to do the same if you want something flush that matches perfectly with the plate, but I'm guessing the OEM blanks are going to be cheaper.

 

Hi everyone! I have a dumb question (again)... I've obtained a two-button switch plate that has approx outside dimensions of 26mm x 35mm and inside of 18mm x 27mm. when i'm here on ch4x4 they're showing dimensions of 39mm x 21mm or for the small ch4x4 they list 34mm x 23mm.

I'm so confused... which one of these is the proper fit? I was told this was the narrow one so wanting to make sure I order the right switches

 

I ordered the 3 panel switch plate and the 39x21 push buttons and they fit perfectly.