How much are you paying for your 2017 Tacoma?

Picked up 2017 DCLB TRD OR (Non Premium - so no JBL or sunroof)
- Tow package $650
- Cargo bed lights (Gulf States / SET port option) $259
- Ball Mount $79
- Carpet mats $205
- Predator Step $639
- Protection package (BS) $349

MSRP: $38491
Dealer Asking: $39384 (Dealer had stupid adds wheel locks / nitrogen in tires / and overpriced tint)

PAID: $ 36226 OTD including 6.25% sales tax and approx. $400 in registration / doc fees.


Lone Star Toyota Lewisville TX

 

Like the steps came with it, thats a good factory option.

 

Thanks! I did just that and found 2 that look good so Im contacting the dealers Thanks for the tip. Hopefully one of them pans out.

 

Good deal. That's a long bed too.
Paid $34,830 pre sales tax and $37,233 out the door. That was an inflated window sticker price at $39k though but your came with a lot options.

Mine had a window sticker of $36,742 and it came with all weather mats, towing package, exhaust tip, and tonneau cover and mine is a short bed.

I got my front windows tinted for $50 and installed my own set of nerf predator steps I got off eBay for $155. It's ridiculous what some of these dealerships charge for these add ons and when they knock $4000 off the window sticker they trick you into thinking you are getting a good deal but they have $2000 worth of overpriced ads ons ($299 window tinting, $399 paint protection film, $299 nitrogen air tires).

Also another painful thing in the car purchase is dealing with those pesky finance managers sneaking in those overpriced extended warranties, and key fob/tire replacement plans that are useless. The finance manager told me what my monthly payment and interest rate was and when I looked at the papers he had a $1500 extended warranty and $600 tire protection plan. I told him to take it off or I walk away from the deal. These car dealerships are a joke trying to railroad people in to bad deals.

 

Hi everyone - I have a lease related question. I'm looking at the Multiple Security Deposits (MSD) policy through Toyota. How much is the money factor reduced for each MSD?

Thank you!

 

Good looking truck! Should've forgone the predators and got some legit rock sliders for that price. I do like the longbed though!

 

I just said no thanks twice and that was the end of it. They can't sneak anything in if you don't agree to it.

Btw, great price on the nerf bars.

 

Yep and they rape you on the interest rate too. Even my credit union, which is pretty good, does 1.95% on 48 month loan and 4.0% on 84 month loan for A+ credit (740+). 64-75 month loans are 2.75%

My personal rule of thumb is never take a vehicle loan for more than 48 months; if I can't afford the payment at that level I've not saved up enough down payment or are buying too much vehicle.

 

Exactly why I always recommend negotiating on "drive out" price. When your negotiated figure the the one at the very bottom of the sheet it prevents most of the potential shenanigans.

 

I usually take out a 60 month loan when buying and pay it off in 3 to 3.5 Years.

 

I guess I'm not following you? Are there people that negotiate a price without knowing their credit score; without asking about doc fees, destination charges, registration fees, sales tax, etc.; without knowing what interest rates are available - and then claim the dealer took advantage of them? Because if that's the case, then they, as the consumer, need to educate themselves. All the information you need to know about buying a car is available online and free.

Also, you posted above, that "they rape you on interest rates". Toyota is offering 2.99% for Tacomas right now and (as posted above) there are batter rates available. I had a guaranteed rate of 2.49% when we shook hands on the deal. The next day I went in and was told they had found a better rate (2.24%) and they passed it along to me.

 

Yes, there are plenty of people who walk into dealers completely unprepared. Dealer's wet dream.

More what I refer to is the person who going in with a mind to negotiate the price of the truck against the invoice price. They come to an agreement and they find there's $600 dealer fees and other crap added on by the time they get to the bottom line. But their negotiating position is compromised because they'd just agreed to a price.

Far simpler to just negotiate drive out.

You appear to be taking that statement out of context. I was specifically talking about the higher rate for extremely long loans.

Finance guy at my dealer advised me on how to obtain a couple rate discounts on my CU loan as the dealer is associated with the CU and can write loans for them without leaving the finance office. I'm at 1.3% on 48mo

 

Yep, good move especially if you're not paying a higher rate. In my case it'd have mean another quarter point to go from 48mo to 60mo, so I stuck to 48mo.

 

Well as I said then, the information is available and free to allow anyone to educate themselves. And if people choose not to, then they really have no right to complain.

I missed the reference to the 8-yr loan, my apologies. My point was only that it doesn't have to be an adversarial process.

 

Ouch interest rate doubles for a 7 year loan. I agree. I don't want to spend almost a decade paying off a car.
Mine is for 60 months but it will be paid off in 3 years.

 

I generally agree, however it remains fact that some finance managers do spin tall tales and invoke scare tactics to extract more money from buyers.

I've personally encountered a couple that would easily hoodwink folks who didn't have a solid foundation in finance. One guy tried to convince me I was silly for using my own financing when he could make my monthly payment SO much lower... only after pressing him did he admit it was a seven year loan instead of the 4 year note I had pre-arranged with my credit union. Imagine a seven year note on a nearly 3 year old CPO 4runner? Seriously?

Others have been on the up-and-up and decent to work with; offering the add ons they have to offer, but being respectful of my saying no and not pressing the matter.

No worries. Correct, and I hadn't thought I'd suggested it was. Just that long loans often mean higher interest rates. While I'm sure there's some exception circumstance where it makes sense, IMHO an eight year loan on a new vehicle is a poor decision. It puts you underwater for WAY too long and limits your options. Pull back ambitions for a few years and build up equity/savings. I drove shitboxes for plenty of years when I was younger, all the while putting money away and being able to buy better and better as time went on and my earnings increased.

 

Forgot to mention the guy I knew who got screwed with the spot-finance scam. Dealer sent him off with a new Montero which the guy loved. Three days later came the "oh, sorry, finance didn't go through, you need to come back in to re-do financing" call. At a rip-his-anus-to-shreds rate.

Of course his trade-in was already gone so he couldn't just back out of the whole deal.

He did manage to get financed via a local credit union at a reasonable enough rate that it didn't hurt too bad.

My point is to emphasize going in knowing all your stuff as @Sprouty115 mentions. There are plenty of good folks at dealers, but there are also enough scumbags that you have to be on your guard. Trust but verify. Everything.

 

That's corporate misbehavior when dealerships do the bait and switch financing on buyers.
Person drives off the lot in the vehicle and a few days later boom! "We're sorry that 3% interest didn't go through but we have this bank that will finance you at 9.99% APR and your monthly payment will be $100 higher".
That practice should be illegal. I'm glad your buddy found a credit union that gave him a decent rate to soften the blow of his unfortunate situation.

 

That was the error I made when I bought my truck I asked what my total out the door price be to the sales manager he said your tax rate will be 5%, the doc fee is $112-138, $38 title fee blah blah so your looking at an extra $2k on top of the sales price. I didn't get a firm out the door price but when I got to the finance office the finance guy told me the interest rate and monthly payment. He gave me three different payment figures one with three different levels of add ons I said no to all those options and told him I am only paying the agreed sales price of the truck, taxes, doc fee, and title fee and that's all. No add ons.

When I was about to sign the contract I saw the $1500 warranty and $600 key fob replacement and tire protection.
I thought it was really shady that the finance guy had those items listed in the bill of sale and I told him I didn't want any of the add ons.
I understand they are in business to make money but you can't force a customer to buy something they don't want.

 

They should refund you for the warranty AND fob you didn't want. They will most likely send the refund to the lien holder (bank where loan resides). Can take 4-8 weeks.

Most of these extended warranties have a period of 30-60 days to cancel and get 100% refund. If you cancel after this time frame it'll be pro-rated, but you don't want to find out what that will look like.

Also make sure they refund the taxes on the stuff you cancel. This is a common thing for them to conveniently not refund.

Dealerships rely on everyone to NOT read the fine print. However I'll deal with new car dealerships all day before dealing with a used car lot...especially these POS buy here/pay here places. There are only so many tactics a new dealership can try, however used lots are not beholden to any car company and will try anything to make the car look good and seem to run good.