Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

I would edit out your tracking # unless you don't mind people having your info

 

Fix yourself, keep receipt incase Toyota ever decides to do right by us, file report with NHSTA and be happy you made it to 99k before a failure. That's pretty much double the average mileage for failure.

 

Dealership looked at it today said they can't duplicate, told them to keep it another day to see if it fouls again! I had a parts list with pricing pulled up to start shopping around! I'll attach a pic of the list! I'm looking for advice on better or comparable prices and want to make sure that they are the correct parts!

 

Couldn't duplicate? Did it go in to limp mode then back out?

 

Not while I had it, I nursed it there about 4 miles on Saturday and they looked at it today around 2! They parked it in a garage all weekend! The few factors I'm seeing are that it's been freezing rain where I live for the past couple few weeks and just the last few days have gotten up to the 50's. so I've got lots of cold and wet it throws code goes limp stays warm and dry all weekend then backs out...I guess! Weird. Ever heard of this before?

 

Nope. Once it throws the codes they should stay on until you reset them.

 

Was it in limp mode when you gave it to the dealer? If it was, someone cleared the codes.

If it was done on purpose at the dealer, that is plain, unscrupulous and wrong. If it was done by accident, they should tell you.

 

It was still in limp mode, yesterday was day 2 at the shop and they still couldn't duplicate! I have her back now and drove about 15 miles since, still nothing gonna take it out and look at it this week! They obviously cleared the code on Monday, spent 2 days trying to duplicate then threw a $1990 parts and labor quote at me then charged me $120 for diagnosis based off what I told them not what they could find is what the service manager said! Not too happy with these guys!

 

Are you still under powertrain warranty? I was when mine failed and the only thing I could get Toyota to waive is the diagnostic fee they tried to charge me. If you want dealer to fix it just have them remove the rear most valve and you will see the deteriorated rubber around the valve.

 

New plan...Veepeak Bluetooth OBD2 reader, torque pro app, set to scan and clear codes. Stay tuned!

 

Thats what I did haha, I will get the bypass eventually, but the conversion is too steep to CAD, i just use my phone to clear my codes every 2nd or 3rd start, been doing it for almost a year now

 

So far I've been using the free app to feel it out. Doing the same thing, clearing codes every three starts or so. I've heard the torque pro app can scan and clear automatically. Have you tried to do that? If I can set this up to run autonomously with an old phone designated to the task, I'm going to call it good for $15.

 

Are you guys going into limp mode? Don't know how your getting by with clearing codes and calling it good. I have a scan gauge in my truck, when my valves went bad I would clear on start up but once I touched the throttle it would pop back on. Even while driving if I was able to keep it cleared once I went past 2krpms code came back. Just curious how you guys are able to clear and call it good?

 

In the beginning they will clear for a few days / weeks with a scanner or by unhooking the negative post of the battery for a minute. But as the valves get worse clearing them lasts, as you have found......only for a few seconds.

 

I went with the "flip the valve spring thing upside down" repair, thus blocking the valves off completely. This causes it to throw the stuck closed codes, obviously, but they don't seem to reappear on every start after I clear them. Also, this prevents the more dreaded stuck open code with the associated limp mode.

 

If you buy the block off plates, or do what I did and flip those spring things upside down, it will still throw a code, but it will not go into limp. It will still disable TRAC though while the code is present. Stuck closed is much preferable to stuck open.

 

This is good to know, could also help you get home if a failure occurs while traveling. Thanks for the info.

 

I think I have joined the club. Will get confirmation tomorrow when I scan codes. 2012 4.0L DC with 75k miles.

Surprising that they would allow something like this to throw the truck into limp mode. Thanks for all of the information posted up, I have learned a lot. Appreciate you guys!

 

Yep verified codes today. P2440 and P2442. Filed my complaint with NHSTA and ordered my kit. Will be contacting Toyota Corp tomorrow.

 

I thought I would post in both threads.

Here goes round 2. I had the code pop up again yesterday. The new parts lasted about 15 months and 10,000 miles.

Original parts went bad at 35k miles, 45k now, I pulled the pump cover off, filter and fan are fine, this is purely a stuck valve issue.

edit - Per autozone the actual code is 2443 valve stuck closed.