OTRATTW HELP!! S.O.S

I got some otrattw switches for some lights. Shouldn't I be able to wire up the light circuit for the switch to make sure the lower independent led works before going any further?? Need help now.

 

Yes, you should be able to. Connect it to a 9 volt battery and make sure the led works.

 

I had the independent led wiring hooked up, spliced off of the light circuit for the factory TCS button. Nothing happened.

 

How did you wire it?

What light model number did you get? It matters.

See this page for wiring schematics:

http://www.otrattw.net/wiring-diagrams.html

 

I had it wired as follows
#8 and #7- wired to ground spliced off of the ground to the factory TCS button
#6- wired to the positive wire to the lighting circuit of the TCS button
#2- fused power from battery
Never connected #3

I've come up with another idea, that being. Use an add a circut taped into the dash light fuse (fuse #2) I don't really care about being able to dim the switch because I never dim my dash lights anyway. Then run my ground off of the battery and splice off of that wire for all the grounds I need.

I am completely new to wiring on new vehicles, so much different than older cars and trucks.

 

I'm trying the same thing right now... But my switch has 8 as dash lights, 7 as common ground 2 & 3 as 12V & switch, and no #6. Its the V1D1 switch.
I tried using the green and green and white wires off my fog light switch so it will work with the dimmer switch assuming one was a positive and one a ground, but no such luck! You said an add-a-fuse in fuse number 2, know of any other options? Something off the stereo or heater controls?

 

I couldn't figure any better options than the add a fuse, I didn't want to take apart my dash to get to the hvac. The add a fuse works well for my light bar. When I put my ditch lights on I'm probably gonna be re wiring a little bit

 

I was hoping I could do it like this heated mirror switch (only way I even thought about the dimmer) (maybe if they were both spliced to the same terminal they would regulate the amount of energy and dim the light???) I did an add-a-fuse to the tail lights fuse, but with that and the one for my heated mirror and radar detector it's rather crowded. Especially if anyone other than me is changing a fuse!

 

I could definatly see how that could work. What I'm planning on doing is using the already jumped fuse just to run the dash light. Then I'm gonna buy an aux fuse box wire it straight to the battery and get the power for the actual light bar from it. That way I'm not overloading the circuit inside the cab. If you could get that method to work I assume you could do the same

 

this is good if you want to turn it on when the truck is off.

i would just grab two fuse taps, one from the dash lights to power the switch light, and another acc hot to power the switch/relay. you dont have to worry about overloading the circuit as a relay draws like .15amps to trigger it. then your main light relay is under the hood hooked up to batt.

 

Yeah I thought about that too. But considering I'm going to be adding all together 3 more lights (although 2 of those are going to be switched by 1 switch) I think the aux panel would be the best way to keep a clean bay. I'm OCD about keeping everything neat Wouldn't know that by looking in the inside of the truck though.