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First Time DIY Oil Change 2.7l

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by FlightMedic178, Jan 11, 2014.

  1. Oct 29, 2015 at 5:49 AM
    #81
    Wolverinesam

    Wolverinesam Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to wake up the thread. Have a question. I bought a differential plug gasket at my local dealership in prep for changing the diff oil. They gave me a Toyota 12157-10010 gasket, which agrees with the threads on TW. Last week I ordered a box of 10 engine oil drain plug gaskets on Amazon and when the box arrived it showed the same part number. Are they the same? I believe if you go to a Toyota online parts site they list a different number. Help!!!!
     
  2. Oct 29, 2015 at 7:46 AM
    #82
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    The part numbers are important.
    The differential plug gasket is 12157-10010
    The engine oil drain plug gasket is 90430-12031

    What's more important is that the parts work for their intended purpose. The oil drain plug gasket should look very different from the differential drain plug gasket. IIRC, the differential drain plug gasket should be copper and the engine oil drain plug gasket should be aluminum, with or without rubber coating.

    Even better, can you compare the new parts you bought to the old parts from the truck, and confirm the dimensions are the same? E.g. compare the new oil plug gasket to the old one? To me that would be all that matters, and that the new parts are quality parts.

    Hope this helps you
     
  3. Oct 29, 2015 at 7:52 AM
    #83
    Wolverinesam

    Wolverinesam Well-Known Member

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    I looked at the new ones compares to the dealer plug. They look identical. Think I'll go to the dealer and get an engine oil gasket to compare. I think you're exactly right. Ill bet they're different. Thanks for your help. Not due for an engine oil change for 3k yet. So I apparently do have 300k worth of diff gaskets. Now to make the truck last to use them all!!!!

    Edit: Just ordered the 90430-12031 gaskets on Amazon. $7.50 for 10. Thanks DXGR. And the diff gasket I bought at the dealer was silver in color. Maybe plated, with copper underneath? OMG- did the dealer give me the wrong gasket?
    AAGH!
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2015
  4. Oct 30, 2015 at 10:44 PM
    #84
    Taco Pete626

    Taco Pete626 Well-Known Member

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    - Undercover Flex tonneau cover - Pop N Lock tailgate lock - Weathertech DigitalFit floor liner - Sick Speed Ol' Skool white shift knob - Bench seat mod - Wiper mod - Cruise control mod
    Parts guy can make mistakes like that. My neighbor went to toyota and bought an oil filter for his 4runner. He installed it and started the engine, oil squirted out all over the place. He tightened the filter some more and started the engine again, oil STILL squirted out between the oil filter and engine. He asked me for an opinion and when I looked at his filter, I noticed that it was a lot smaller in diameter compared to what I had for my truck. Well it turns out the parts guy gave him the wrong oil filter! It probably was meant for a Corolla or Yaris, but it had the same threads and my neighbor didnt know any better.
     
  5. Oct 31, 2015 at 9:38 AM
    #85
    Wolverinesam

    Wolverinesam Well-Known Member

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    Ouch!!!
     
  6. Aug 18, 2016 at 3:02 PM
    #86
    dawgn86

    dawgn86 Well-Known Member

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    any good way of removing the oil filter without spilling oil on the frame?
     
  7. Aug 19, 2016 at 12:42 PM
    #87
    Mush Mouse

    Mush Mouse Club Soda Not Seals

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    its a Toyota truck and that's all the modifications needed
    I haven't found one yet, I tried using a plastic grocery bag and let the filter drop into it oil and all was the best method I have tried but still had some leakage, best to get an old cardboard box rip it open and put it under your work area keeps the oil off your driveway/garage floor, I stole one from behind my grocery store:spy:
     
  8. Aug 22, 2016 at 12:59 PM
    #88
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    Yes. First loosen the filter but not enough to drain. Cut a piece of cardboard approx 6" x 10" (15cm x 25cm) and wedge it lengthwise up behind the oil filter, between the filter and the engine block. You may need to fold over the top edge a bit so it will stay wedged behind the filter. The 6" width should also allow it to wedge between some crossmembers at the bottom end. (I curve mine lengthwise a little so the oil is directed to the center.) Then slowly unscrew the filter enough to break the gasket seal, and allow the oil to drain from the filter onto the cardboard and into your drain pan. Then carefully remove the filter. Once in a while I get a few drops on the engine block or a cross-member, but that is rare. For the most part this approach is clean and fairly quick, much cleaner than just removing the filter without any preparation.
     
    Mush Mouse likes this.
  9. Sep 6, 2016 at 12:26 PM
    #89
    motox379

    motox379 Active Member

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    I take a nail and poke a hole in my filter, then just let it drain. nice and clean every time.
     
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  10. Sep 6, 2016 at 2:23 PM
    #90
    Mush Mouse

    Mush Mouse Club Soda Not Seals

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    its a Toyota truck and that's all the modifications needed
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Nov 2, 2016 at 8:08 AM
    #91
    IPAsearcher

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    What is the brand and model of this wrench? Where can I buy this?
     
  12. Nov 2, 2016 at 8:38 AM
    #92
    CusterFan

    CusterFan Well-Known Member

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  13. Feb 16, 2017 at 7:58 AM
    #93
    dawgn86

    dawgn86 Well-Known Member

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    I took an old gallon plastic milk jug, cut the bottom off and cut some off the side and placed it around my filter. Worked great No spills
     
  14. Sep 8, 2017 at 11:28 AM
    #94
    RocTaco

    RocTaco Free stun!

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    Just used one of these wrenches today on my first DIY oil change. Worked ok, this fell off my extension into the drain pan full of oil but I got the filter off. Also put a fumoto valve on :thumbsup:
     
  15. Sep 22, 2017 at 8:06 PM
    #95
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    Mine is a 4X4 so unless I remove the front skid plate there is really no way to not get oil everywhere. I just poke a hole in the bottom of the filter, hope most of it lands in the drain pan which it never does and then change the filter. Luckily, I only change my oil every 7500 miles. A lot of it ends up inside the skid plate which prevents rust so there is actually a silver lining to the spill.
     
  16. Sep 25, 2017 at 11:17 PM
    #96
    Hartford

    Hartford Well-Known Member

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    For the oil filter I use a gallon ziplock bag with some paper towels stuffed in the bottom. Loosen the filter by hand then slide the bag up over the filter. My left hand goes between the rubber flap that keeps shit out of the engine compartment and the back of the UCA to hold the bag in place while my right hand spins the filter off. Don't get any oil on me and what dips out after just lands on the skid plate I installed.
     
  17. Sep 26, 2017 at 9:40 PM
    #97
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    I'll look into trying that. Never thought of going in through the side.
     
  18. Sep 26, 2017 at 9:50 PM
    #98
    Hartford

    Hartford Well-Known Member

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    It takes some finagling. I pass the bag up through the way you'd put the filter back in and with the one hand coming in from the side and the other coming from the bottom I slide it up and around the filter. Then do small turns on the filter with the bag over it. It's about the cleanest way I have found. The only shit I get on me is from the grease for the aftermarket UCA's bushings. The paper towels really are necessary. Otherwise you have a bunch of free oil in the bag and it's hard to bring it down and out while worming out from under the truck without tilting the bag.
     
  19. Nov 23, 2017 at 6:44 AM
    #99
    2001busa1

    2001busa1 Member

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    None yet
     
  20. Nov 23, 2017 at 6:47 AM
    #100
    2001busa1

    2001busa1 Member

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    I have a 2013 2.7 4x4 and it says in the book for the oil to be in between the 2 lines which is about 5.5 quarts. I wouldn’t go above the last line on the stick.
     

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