Prepping for turbo

So, while I'm awaiting to get back home I've been making a list of my turbo build. Have everything so far except filter, piping, and intercooler.

My question is, before I do this I ask about the engine. It's almost at 200k but feels to be running strong

So, do I rebuild mine with forged and built internals...
Just run it, havnt been home to check compression though..
Or run it on mine till I need an ecu fix up, probably going standalone, while at 10 psi max. Then buy another engine with less miles to build the hell out of so I can hit my 20psi goal.

 

My list and the turbo I'm thinking of.

 

@yota243

 

here is a link to a piggy back ecu "group buy" they are regular like $700 but if 2 or more are bought they go down to $500 so there are a couple people that didn't get in on the first go around you might can get up with and save a couple hundred bucks if you go that route. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mapecu3-feeler-possible-group-buy-af.458556/
you're also gonna need an adapter for MAF, and you will prolly run in to a few things here and there that you will need once you get "everything" just kinda the nature of the beast. There are a few other members with turbo 2.7 that might can help you out in more detail

 

Thanks you kind sir

I'd like to go to standalone instead of piggyback, unless piggyback can handle like 25psi.
Thanks for the help though, need to look up the maf adapter

 

Crap thats a lot of boost... A piggy back might be able to do that cuz i feel like there are people running like 5 psi with no tune just an fpr mod. U are definitely gonna want some forged internals and prolly beef up that tranny if u plan on putting ~400 hp to the wheel

 

My motor was at ~175k when I boosted it and it's been running well so far. IMO as long as you don't have leaking piston rings or sludgy oil, you should be fine. I did a project similar to what you're talking about back in the day with a 95 240sx and in hindsight I would build the turbo set up on the motor that you have, and then build another motor on the side so that it's ready to drop in when you want to. This way you can work out the kinks and quirks of your turbo set up on the old motor, get to know your tuning software and get most everything dialed in before you boost the shit out of the new motor.

IDK what you've been finding for pricing with that turbo, but I ended up getting the same one from JGYCustoms.
http://www.jgy.cc/precisionturbo.htm
They're a mostly a Nissan tuner shop, but it was the best price i could find compared to anyone else. I think I saved around $100 or so. You do have to call to order from them.

Also, there's a guy on Customtacos that is currently selling a Haltech 1000 for $1000 if you're interested in that. It's about $400 less than what they typically sell for. They do pop up used on eBay once in a while as well to if you're still shopping around for a ECU.

 

I'd do both compression and a leak down test. Compression for the piston rings conditions. Leak down to check the condition of the valves and seals. Once it's at your satisfaction and within factory specs. Start boosting low first: 5-7 psi and it would help to have A/F Ratio wideband and boost gauge at the very minimal. Tuning is always the key to a healthy running engine for the street and off road no matter the type of quality parts you buy.

 

I don't think the 3rz can handle as much boost as people say in stock form. The longer rod length means these things are really whippin around at high rpms and the notorious fail point, at least for the 5vz, is the rod bolts/caps stretching due to the tensile stress at the top of the exhaust stroke.

I would definitely beef the thing first, especially since your goal is over 20 psi.

 

Here's a good read from CT on 3rz boost/power limits
http://www.customtacos.com/#/topics/187529?page=1&_k=jg3crm

 

Blew his engine up in 6 months?

Kurts numbers are inflated IMO. 350 at 12 psi? That would be extraordinary. He used a virtual power simulator to come up with those numbers.

I wouldn't go over 10 psi stock if you plan to actually use the peak power you're making. I.e. rev over 5k. Some people just wanna make numbers though and that's fine too.

 

The main thing I found interesting about this conversation was that the issue of max boost and power on the 3rz may possibly be related more (or at least equally) to oiling issues before rod capacity. I'm definitely not encouraging anyone to do this unless they don't care about popping their motor if something does fail. I thought it was cool to see someone that actually tested the limits of the motor vs reading theoretic info.

 

Good point, speaking of oiling....isn't their an extra port where the oil filter screws on to install the feed hose for the turbo. It might be an adapter that screws on, then the filter screws on that.

 

Sandwich plate...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321376169846?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

That would be it, Thank you

 

Do you think an oil pressure gauge is needed? I was looking at James' build and he only has afr and boost, but he's thinking of egt.

 

It isnt gonna hurt anything to have one, but i don't... Just the light on the dash for me haha; i like to live dangerously. That sammich plate has an extra port so u could run one

 

Forgot the best thing BOV!

Might want to figure out how you want to run your MAf sensor.

 

would a map sensor be better at 25 psi?

 

For the start of it he going to need to run the oem maf until he runs a mapecu3 or standalone.