Lower ball joints?!?

First, to avoid confusion all the years have a different left and right joint.

At some vague point, 02-03ish Toyota added a "protector" skirt and these joints were secured with the bolt/washer. When you look up these later joints the price is lower than the earlier joints because Toyota decided to not include the hardware pack that comes with the earlier year joints. The earlier joints used the flange head bolt. Again the joints themselves are the same across the board. The protector is just a rubber shroud.
The hardware pack consisted of the 4 mount bolts, the castle nut and a brand new cotter pin.

Go to an online Toyota vendor, look up a 99 4wd left side joint, now look up an 04 4wd left side joint. They are different #'s and prices. The cheaper 04 does not come with any hardware. The more expensive 99 comes with the hardware. The joints themselves are the same.

And that's all I have to say about that.
F. Gump out

 

oem ball joints are the same 99.5-04. The different toyota part numbers corresponds to LBJs that come with the bolts vs. LBJs without the bolts. I bought the bolts and the LBJs that came with the bolts, which resulted in me having an extra set.

Post above explains it better.

edit:

with new bolts:

$220 43330-39815 Toyota Ball Joint - 43330-39815

43330-39815 and

$195 43340-39585 Toyota Ball Joint - 43340-39585

43340-39585
without new bolts:

$136 43340-39436 Toyota Ball Joint - 43340-39436

43340-39436 and

$206 43330-39556 Toyota Ball Joint - 43330-39556

43330-39556

 

So I just went and checked my work and see 04 joints listed at Camelback with the early/late price difference between LEFT AND RIGHT sides. Gotta be a misprint.

 

So if you wanted to get the joints *with* the hardware pack, even if you have an 04, would it be wise to get the 99 joints?

 

Thanks for the info provided.

I called 2 of the dealerships that sell online and got conflicting info. They did not agree on part numbers, and the prices were wildly different. Both have different prices for right and left.

I expected the installation to be the difficult part, not getting the right parts.

Can anyone recommend a reliable (but fairly priced) source?

 

Did you try Toyota of Dallas or camelback?

 

Beat to death topic but I'll put my .02 in. I used Napa chassis ball joints, cv axles and tie rods. Been on there for about 35k. My pickup is my daily driver. lifted and I mildly off-road. They still look great and perform well. As soon as they break though I'll send pics!

 

Everywhere I looked had different prices for the right and left as well, sometimes as much as $20. I have no explanation for that, it's bizarre.

I buy a lot of stuff through Conicelli. They have a sale going on right now too, might save you a couple of bucks.

 

You most certainly could. Here comes the but. You would have to do away with the "protector" skirt as it uses the washer/bolt and I believe the bolt is longer to compensate for the thickness of the washer and protector. Frankly I would rather not have that skirt in place. I would prefer the more solid "bolt up" without the washer and skirt sandwiched under the bolt and the skirt makes it tough to see/inspect/check the joint. I am sure Toyota had some reason to add it but I have never seen brush or anything else damage the boot that the protector is supposed to protect.

Further, I have spent all my life pulling skirts off.
I got slapped alot but made out pretty good in the long run.

 

LOL! Yeah I noticed the last time mine were replaced they no longer had the skirt. So I'll probably just go ahead and order the 99 so the bolts are already included.

 

@SlipperyTaco some good info on this thread.

 

^This. Cheap and easy. Don't check at over 100k. Just replace.

http://parts.toyotaofdallas.com/oem...0YWNvbWEmeT0yMDA0JnQ9YmFzZSZlPTMtNGwtdjYtZ2Fz

 

Looks like i'm gonna replace mine almost at 90k miles and they are leaky.

 

Mash away my friend. I'm pretty quick with the pullers these days since I've used them so much now, so we're talking a savings of a few minutes. I was at a Pick and Pull recently raping a wrecked 3rd Gen and I tried the Ol' Hammer technique on the outer tie rod and it wouldn't budge. I pounded the shit out of it mashed up the knuckle of the balljoint pretty good. Pullers work every time.

On my buddy Sean's rig, It's obvious the gorilla working on his truck used the hammer technique to break free the upper balljoint from the UCA. He bent the shit out of it. I used a long arm puller recently for the same application installing Total Chaos UCAs for a friend and it popped it free easily.

But, to each his own. Use whatever technique that floats your boat.

 

When I ordered mine they came without skirts or bolts. I reused the skirts that were already on there. I believe the addition of the skirt was part of the remedy for the LBJ recall that took place in 2005, but I could be wrong about that.

 

if that were the case then I would surmise that they would still be using them. But they aren't. Did you order the 2004 LBJs?

 

The skirt started to show up when the 1st gens were still in production. It is one of those deals where there is no clear documented point of introduction (as of yet). But it was in the last few production years.

 

$206 43330-39556 Toyota Ball Joint - 43330-39556

43330-39556 and

$136 43340-39436 Toyota Ball Joint - 43340-39436

43340-39436, latest part numbers from Toyota.

Well, there you go. I just know that mine had the LBJs replaced under the recall, and since everyone else was saying theirs didn't have the skirts, I figured that was part of the recall. I guess they just reinstalled the skirts when they installed the recall LBJs.

 

I was just told by toyota of dallas that these parts would be everything complete for both sides. and that cotter pins and protector lower balls come with the ball joints.
Part Number:

$136 43340-39436 Toyota Ball Joint - 43340-39436

43340-39436
Part Number:

$206 43330-39556 Toyota Ball Joint - 43330-39556

43330-39556
Part Number: 90119-10933 x8

 

And 8 bolts (your cart shows only 4)