BAMF no drill bolt on sliders

Ordered, couldn't pass that deal up
Depending on shipping to Reno I'll just come pick them up, how long is instal? Maybe just throw them on in cali haha

 

They definitely covered my 'oh shit there's a rock there?' ass.

You'll need a basic socket set, crescent wrench, and some time for knuckle busting. One you get the frame bolt in, it goes pretty quickly. I had to use a clamp on the driver side to get enough torque on the slider to get the bolt in straight. If you don't run into any problems, I don't see why it should take longer than two hours if you're taking your time by yourself.

 

Good info, I'm assuming these come with hardware or do I need to start looking for that?
And scratch putting them on there, I forgot that I'll need to paint them...

 

They include all the necessary hardware to install.

 

I assume this is one of the newer ones with the new coating since you got them so recently?

 

Yes, it's one of the ones with the new Thermoplastic Coating.

Jerry has sent me a repair kit free of charge, as well as refunded me the cost of the coating process, so I will be attempting a repair on my own and hoping it turns out just as good as well as fixing the problem.

I will be keeping an update on the progress of rust as/if it progresses. Jerry told me it shouldn't spread, as the manufacturer has claimed if the coating is removed; in this case it may or may not have been 100% applied; is suppose to only rust on the bare metal spots and the coating is there just to protect it from that.

 

Yes they are there was spots of missing powder that were missed during the coating process.

 

How does shipping on these work again? Can't be delivered to residential? Hoping to get my shipping info soon

 

More expensive to residential.

 

So my card got charged, but do I get a email when there ready? or should I get a confirmation too? (charged feb 21st, 12 week wait, should be ready approx may 16th) maybe it will turn into a bday present to myself haha (may 7th)

 

He bills for the sliders up front at the time the order is placed, and will send a separate invoice for shipping costs once the sliders are ready to ship.

 

I was thumbing around looking for the best options for a set of sliders for our 2016 DCSB and I was quite surprised to see this happening on relatively new sliders.

I have dealt with a local powder-coater for years locally here at the Illinois and Wisconsin Border. Right in the middle of the Salt Belt, where if it doesn't snow in the winter often enough they will paint the road white with salt to help to ensure a white Christmas. So yes salt sucks and jacks up everything, its a full time job to keep your trucks/cars from rusting away. This is why I powder coat damn near everything I can.

I have seen what is happening in the pictures before, and the cause, the parts were not clean when coated. They may have had surface rust, scale and/or weld slag/spatter left on them before they were coated. That explains the pooling and exposed pock marks, that then leads to rust, inside, outside, under the coating, basically where ever.

How to prevent it.
1. Sandblast it thoroughly
2. Steam or chemical clean it based on what that shop may offer.
3. Use a Phosphate Pretreatment / Based Coat in the Salt Belt !!!! (Some states have strict rules on this iirc, CA may be one)
4. Immediately Powder Coat.

Any imperfections that are there before the coating will show with time. When done correctly, powder-coating is pretty much impervious to salt, as the part is encapsulated. I have had parts last for several years 6+ with no signs of rust through the coating unless it got otherwise scratched or gouged. Most recently we had our JK warn bumper with its crap factory coating and factory nicks and scratches stripped sand blasted and powder coated. Low and behold, there were a few spots on the welds exactly as shown above. Within a week, 1 rain, summer weather, no salt. The areas void of powder had a nice showing of rust flashing through.

Our local powder-coater stands behind his work, so aside for R&Ring the bumper, it was stripped, blasted and re-coated. Now its mint and will be for years to come.

Now please don't take this as a hate post, only informative. BAMF treated me great when I had to cancel an order I prepaid for when I had to get rid of my 2012. And would do business with him again. It seems whomever is coating these, may need to look at the QA before the get leave that shop. I get it, if these were all bashed and scraped up from offroading, yeah then its not the coaters fault. However, based on these pics that does not appear to be the case. I hate to say it, our truck sees little offroad time and the sliders are more for protecting the truck from ding bats in the parking lot smacking their door into our truck. I would want them to look nice until I decide to F'em up myself.

Hopefully the shop coating these will help these guys get their sliders recoated!!!

 

after going around and around with him on here he did offer to redo the powder coating on mine. But its just not practical to ship them back to California have them repaired and ship them back, it would cost me more in shipping than it would cost me to have them done here in Utah. If I have them done here I know that they will be done right and I wont have to worry about them rusting for years.

 

It was not a pre treatment issue all of our products are blasted before coating, pre heated to 400 degrees for at least an hour as well to make sure any oils left in the welds are burned out.

We can't phosphate treat here in CA or at least the bay area they won't even issue permits.

The first set pictured in your post was our old powder designed to be easily touched up as it matches Rust-Oleum spray on bed liner and salt damage would spread quick once comprised.

The market has changed quite a bit in the last 2 years and people are not using thier sliders as they should needing to touch them up. So we switched to a thermoplastic powder in December 2016 that when applied properly has very long salt spary properties about 8000 hours.

The second quote you quoted was an application error when the powder was applied there was spots missed that's why it started to rust within a week. The cost of the powder coating was refunded and a repair kit was sent to him.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I hate to say it, but I have to stand firm that both of these were caused by issues during the preparation process. Porosity near the weld is a very common place to look to see how well the part was cleaned as these are often the easiest places to get overlooked when trying to increase production speed.

Regardless of the coating, Powder-Coat, Theromo-Plastic or even Paint for that matter, the results will only be as good as the surface it was applied to and how well it was prepared.

Here is an article that goes over these issues, quote below: http://www.materialstoday.com/powder-applications/features/powder-coating-101-top-10-field-issues/.

"Coating quality will only be as good as the quality of the surface to which it is anchored. Poor pretreatment practices may create adhesion, corrosion resistance and impact resistance problems on coated parts.
There are varying pretreatment technologies available to finishers, each fitting specific needs. For example, pretreatment for an office desk would most likely not be the same as that for a bicycle frame. Knowing the pretreatment needs of each substrate is critical.

Insufficient and/or inadequate pretreatment can lead to a number of issues, including:

• Loss of adhesion
• Pinholing/outgassing, resulting in small holes in the finish
• Laser edge issues, stemming from products cut with lasers and the resulting scale, which affects surface technology
• Flash rusting due to improper removal of surface oils
• Weld pullaway, in which powder will actually pull away from a weld
• Premature coating failure in harsh environments such as salt air

Applicators should work with their pretreatment and coating suppliers to ensure that the right pretreatment is in place when they make changes in the type(s) of product being coated, substrates, or in the coating technology used. In short, the coating is only as good as the substrate to be covered."

I would hope a local re-coating solution would be in order, I agree shipping is worth more than the coating.

For the record, I am very interested in the slider and the new bolt on design. And the debate above really has no impact on this decision, however, I would clearly order un-coated.

Also here is a picture of a Shrock Works Bumper that has had the same powder on it for 6 years as a daily driver in the salt belt:

 

And again I stand by my statement that the pre treatment has nothing to do with it. All of our products are blasted to a white finish all the HAZ is removed and we don't have porosity in our welds.

As for that bumper I bet is has a zinc or epoxy primer under the coating.

 

• I was referring to porosity in the coating not the welds. The pooling of the coating around a contaminated area. As in the powder or coating will not adhere to the contaminate and leave a bare spot. This may be very tiny, but that is all it takes to start rusting.

• I have not seen how you are pre-treating personally, but you are standing behind the pre-treatment portion of the process, then this just a poor powder-coating job. Either from quality of the application or the quality of the powder used. Sorry Dude, call it as I see it.

• Clearly this doesn't happen all the time or the forum would be full of these pics, but mistakes happen regardless of the person or cause.

• The only difference between the issue in these two sets of sliders is the amount of time bare metal was exposed to the elements causing rust. The rust has effected to parts differently based on time of exposure and the coating medium. Both had a failure in the coating to completely cover the part. Again, just look at the most commonly effected area, around the welds, The Hardest Spot To Clean.

• Yes, the xterra bumper has a zinc phosphate pre-treatment. I have many parts that are not zinc phosphated, and they do not have rust. My 2012 JK bumper is Powder Only. (Note it did have an issue within a week and was redone at the PowederCoaters expense.)

• Bottom line, if you powder-coat enough parts this WILL happen from time to time. If those were pictures of my personal parts and I paid for the coating to be applied, I would be pissed as well and expect them to be fixed and fixed right.

 

I like this guy

 

Would you be able to add some rear steps similar to the ones in the below pics - with traction bumps and all - to a set of bolt of your on sliders.