Reloading BS thread

I know you asked to not be brand specific, however it's tough to talk about this without doing so. I'm running a Dillon RL 550, I've run multiple 1000s of rounds through it and it's been a solid setup. I reload rifle and pistol calibers, the change over takes about 20-30min if you have your dies setup with the interchangeable tool heads, I also have two powder systems. (one for the rifle, the other for pistol) With the 300BO you could run the die set from Dillon. I run the carbide 556 and pistol dies and they has served me well. I use Redding for the 708 precision rifle.

Their no BS Warranty is exactly that, they will replace what ever needs to be replaced on their presses. A friend of mine picked up a used Dillon at a garage sale that needed repair to be operational. He called Dillon about the press and explained the situation, they said no problem what parts do you need.

https://www.dillonprecision.com/rl-550b_8_1_23594.html

 

First off, it's hard not to talk brands because there are pros and cons to different presses. Whatever your budget or brand, there should be a kit that includes everything you need. Not the most basic kit, but the more inclusive one. Reloading is basic. You need a press, dies, powder measure, priming tool at the minimum. You will need a means of trimming and chamfering the case. Most of the kits cover all that except dies.

Once you get more involved and experienced, there's a lot more you can have, but don't necessarily need to produce ammo.

Some examples: http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=reloading+kits&uac=true

 

I reload all of my rifle cartridges - 338 Lapua Mag, 300 Weatherby Mag, 300 Win Mag, 30-06, 308, 25-06, and 223. I have loaded some pistol cartridges before like 41 Mag, 357 Mag, and 32-20, but I need to get some 45 ACP and 40 S & W dies to start reloading them.

 

6mm Rem spitting hot little 70 gr Nosler Ballistic Tips. Can't wait for spring chucks.

 

@CO MTN Steve

https://inlinefabrication.com/

Tumbler.

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/reloading-products/package-kits/stm-complete-package.html

Or get the model b or get a rock tumbler and just get the media for it.

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/thumler-s-tumbler-model-b-high-speed.html

Press option.

http://m.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-Classic-Loader/

Or the adapter i got.

$27 Hornady 044099 Lock-N-Load Conversion Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...F8&qid=1487999891&sr=2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

 

Before you get the press, I would ask what calibers are you planning to load? What volume? Only rifle? Handgun & rifle?

If you're planning to reload LR rifle calibers in small batch quantities 50-100 the single stage press is a good way to go.

If you're looking to be able to load large batches 100-500+, changing calibers, switching over to handgun etc then a progressive press would be a better choice.

I use a Dillon 550 progressive to load precision rifle in 708 as well as 556 match and number of handgun loads. The 708 gets loaded in small batches 100-300 and I run the press the same as a single stage. The 556 gets loaded in runs of 200-600, the press is running in progressive mode so it's hitting three stations every time you cycle it. Same thing with 9mm, batches of 200-1000, it's hitting four stations every cycle.

Something to look for in progressive presses is quick change die plates, it makes caliber change overs much quicker. For example I can change out my press from 708 to 556 or 9mm in about 30min then you're ready to do a large batch run. I've run 400-500 556 in about 2.5-3hr, with 9mm you can run those a bit faster 500-600 in 2-2.5hr. If the Dillon is the direction you choose to go the 650 is a semiauto progressive were as the 550 is a manual.

 

THANK YOU! I keep telling these guys to go that way but

1. They have never reloaded and i told them if they think they can pickup on what things are doing on the press and can make the changes accordingly before making a bunch of duds then go progressive.

2. I dont know if they will be shooting high enough volume to make a progressive worth it right yet. Though it would be nice.

3. I think he likes the idea of being able to sit down and do this for a bit and have something to do whwn colorado decides its winter again..

The blue press is the way to go, hands down. But they are not super cheap in startup and he is not pushing that volume yet but can always upgrade to the pile with one down the road.

 

It doesn't matter if you're running single stage or progressive carefull attention should be payed. Many folks are concerned with double changing when starting reloading. Of the hand loads I do the only calibers that could be double charged are the 44s & 38s, this is due to the load having a large case capacity with regard to smokeless powder. The rifle cartridges the issue would be short charging.

 

@3378jakesr5

Another question I would ask, is why the commercial type brass tumbler?

Rather than saving money on the press I would choose to save the money on the tumbler, especially if you're planing low volume to start.

I had been borrowing friends tumblers for quite some time and recently decided it was time to support my own habit. I put together a tumbler system for under $100. I got Lyman with two different media bowls, a can of the walnut media (yeah I know old school) and couple HomeDepot buckets. I drilled holes in the bottom of one bucket to use as sieve to separate the brass and media. Everything fits in the buckets for storage (bonus!) I'll probably get another tumbler latter, this one only allows for 100 or so 556 cases at a time.

 

I'd cut to the chase and get the Frankford liquid tumbler with SS pins. The primer pockets and everything will come out clean and looking brand new. They will do 1000 pieces of 556 at once. You'll need a media separator but they are fairly cheap ~$40-50

$169 Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Rotary Tumbler with 7-Liter Capacity, Clear Viewing Lids, and Auto Shut-Off for Reloading, Cleaning and Wet Tumbling Brass Cases gray

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Series-Rotary-Tumbler-7L/dp/B00HTN4R6O

 

If your going to cut your own 300 BO brass, you'll need a mini chop saw and jig. I have the jig setup so no trimming required.

 

Also a case guage is a must for 300 BO...

 

@Frank Castle

 

Looks like the exact same setup I have for .300 BLK, takes a bit to get it dialed in but I can usually get it to the point where I deburr, size and they are all within a few thousandths

 

This system is the way to go. It took a minute to set it up, but now its spot on.

 

Thanks @3378jakesr5 & everyone for the input, Pretty sure I will go Single Stage to get started just waiting for hopefully a good deal on a set-up. Will let you know how it all works out.

 

Use data for a 180 gr bullet and tweak to your gun's liking.

 

Some 22's, box of 300 wsm for the brass, reload boxes, H4895, H100V, 6mm 70 gr NBTs, 30 cal 165 gr accubonds. I can buy this Browning 155 gr ammo for 34.99 (very accurate, made by Winchester) or spend $64.99 for 25 pieces of Nosler brass.

 

I had 50 cases of 38 special primed and belled this evening and a small container of Unique from some pulls. I did not feel like adjusting my seating die (lazy I guess), so I pulled out the Lee Loader kit and just used the "pound it down" seating method. I had not used it in months. Amazing how therapeutic seating those wad cutters with a hammer.

 

some hot 310 gr flatnose cast and finally arrived brass