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Help wiring onboard water pump

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Teleost, Feb 26, 2017.

  1. Feb 26, 2017 at 2:21 PM
    #1
    Teleost

    Teleost [OP] Member

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    Hi all,

    First post here. I've been looking all over for examples of what I want to do but having some trouble figuring it out. I have a 2014 tacoma and would like to install an on board water system for rinsing after the beach, scuba diving, and general washdown use. This is similar to how I'd like it set up: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ystem-for-the-2005-2017-toyota-tacoma.453005/

    However, instead of a switch at the back, I'd like to wire it to a push switch on the dash like this:
    IMG_6004.jpg

    What would be the easiest and safest way to do this? Should it be wired directly into the fuse box behind the little change box under the switches? Should it be connected directly to the battery or can it be safely tied into the truck another way? Would I need a relay? The pump draws little power (product specs say 1.7 amps, max 2.7). I know next to nothing about electrical work and this would be my first project like this. I don't want to mess anything up, but I'm excited to try it! I'd love any feedback or resources you guys can offer a noobie such as myself. Thanks!
     
  2. Feb 26, 2017 at 2:21 PM
    #2
    Unchained 5150

    Unchained 5150 Rick

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  3. Feb 26, 2017 at 4:48 PM
    #3
    RacecarGuy

    RacecarGuy Well-Known Member

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    I always like to run relays. Back in my early (broke) days in high school, I never used relays. That changed one time, when one of the switches had too much power being pulled through it, and fused itself in the closed position. I wasn't able to turn off the device until I ripped the switch out of the dash, and yanked the wires off. Since then, I always use relays with switched devices.
     
  4. Feb 26, 2017 at 5:02 PM
    #4
    windsor

    windsor Just a guy

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    Use an add-a-fuse from fuse panel to the switch (green).
    image.jpg
    Run the wire (red 1) from the switch through the firewall grommet behind the kick panel to the engine bay.
    image.jpg
    Use inline fuse from battery to the relay. Then wire it to the location of your choice for the pump. Use a waterproof relay.
    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2017
  5. Feb 28, 2017 at 12:22 PM
    #5
    Teleost

    Teleost [OP] Member

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    Thank you so much for your feedback! I made a quick rough diagram of what I'm thinking for the wiring, but I'd like to see what you guys think. I definitely want to do this right the first time.
    IMG_6011.jpg

    Apologies for the crappy drawing and lined paper.

    I have a few other questions as well (and plenty to follow I'm sure!):
    How do I determine what amp in-line fuse I need? And the fuse for the fuse tap for that matter... Obviously a fuse can be rated too low to handle the load, but can it be rated too high to be effective?

    Also, is connecting directly to the positive terminal of the battery the best solution? I want to avoid modifying any factory wiring, but are there any other power points that can be used?
     
  6. Feb 28, 2017 at 1:06 PM
    #6
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    One bad experience is not a good reason for skipping research. Take the time to learn what accessories need a relay and which do not. It also sounds like if you had a fuse it was sized too large that it didn't fail.

    @Teleost with that low current draw no need for a relay. Relays are partly to protect switches and partly to keep from running long lengths of high current wiring into the cab(where switches normally are). Use fuses and size them accordingly, 5amp tops.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2017
  7. Feb 28, 2017 at 1:21 PM
    #7
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Sometimes when I close my eyes, I can't see.

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    Not to detract, but it would seem like a switch located in the bed, by the equipment and where you use it, would be much more practical than in the cab.

    Your call obviously, just wanted to mention it.
     
    T4RFTMFW likes this.
  8. Feb 28, 2017 at 1:27 PM
    #8
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    That is my plan, using a panel like this marine panel, but with switches.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AFK4M76/
     
  9. Feb 28, 2017 at 5:18 PM
    #9
    RacecarGuy

    RacecarGuy Well-Known Member

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    I understand that. It was 20+ years ago, safety was not much of a concern back then, because I was indestructible and couldn't afford it o_O. Times have change and so has my knowledge.
     
  10. Feb 28, 2017 at 5:37 PM
    #10
    windsor

    windsor Just a guy

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    @Teleost, verify the draw of the pump FIRST. The wiring setup will depend in the peak draw.
    Most of the ch4x4 and the mictuning push switches are 3 amp max. If the draw is 1.7 amps, you should be fine with running just a switch. However, if you misread or the person entering the specs put a . where there shouldn't be one and it is actually 17, you need a relay.
    The way you drew it is correct for using a relay. Just missing the wire from the switch to your factory dash light circuit.
    As for getting power, I just put an eyelet terminal on the end on my wire, took the nut off the terminal clamp, put the eyelet on the bolt, then tightened it back down. I don't know about your truck, but mine also has a stud on the battery terminal. I would have used that, but mine was really tight and I didn't feel like fighting it at the time.
    Fuses needed will depend on how it gets wired. My add-a-fuse circuits that use ch4x4 switches to control relays use 3 amp fuses (purple I think) for the power wire going to the switch. Fuses for components depend on the draw.
     
  11. Feb 28, 2017 at 5:37 PM
    #11
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Good good, still good for the youngins now to hear. We are experienced, good and bad.
     
  12. Feb 28, 2017 at 5:44 PM
    #12
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Yes you do need to compare switches and make sure you get a switch rated accordingly. It looks like most of the Push button style like this Air compressor switch are rated at 3 amps. http://www.ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-toyota-push-switch-air-compressor-symbol-2-2/
    While most of the Rocker(Carling style) switches are rated for 20amps. To be safe I would say to get a switch rated at 20amp like this Fresh Water switch.

    http://www.ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-marine-rocker-switch-fresh-water-symbol/
    upload_2017-2-28_20-40-12.jpg
     
  13. Feb 28, 2017 at 5:49 PM
    #13
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    @Teleost another thing to note is the push button switches don't look to have a waterproof rating (at least on ch4x4), if you do want to mount them in the bed. The Rocker(Carling) style switches have a waterproof rating, Certified to IP66.
     
  14. Feb 28, 2017 at 5:52 PM
    #14
    windsor

    windsor Just a guy

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    Correct. Waterproof is your friend for components mounted outside the cab.
    I was just going off what is in the OP which stated push switch in the dash.
     
  15. Feb 28, 2017 at 5:53 PM
    #15
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Just providing more info based on Bills comment.
     
    windsor[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Mar 1, 2017 at 2:24 PM
    #16
    Teleost

    Teleost [OP] Member

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    True, and I know that is what I have seen done before. To be honest, its mostly an aesthetics thing for me. I figured the key will have to be in the ignition and turned to on anyway so its not much of inconvenience to also hit the switch, plus the beauty of this pump is that it is pressure sensitive and only actually turns on if the pressure is released from using the hose. So I can have the switch on ahead of time or whatever. But that is a good point.

    Okay, so the pump arrived last night and I was looking over the specs on the box and it conflicts a little with what is on the pump itself. The box says max draw is 4 amps while on the pump it says 2.7, so I guess I will be erring on the side of caution and assuming a draw of 4 amps.

    Now here are my questions about this... Since I can't find a push switch rated higher than 3A, I think I will just use a relay so I can use the switch I like. I've been thinking more about the wiring and the one thing that doesn't make sense to me is why do I need to directly connect the relay to the battery? Why do I need to connect to the battery at all? Isn't the power coming from the tap into the fuse box? This came up when I went to Napa to get a relay and the guy said I should only have to connect to the fuse box... But this also conflicts with some walk-throughs I've been looking at here (mainly this). If someone could clear this up for me that would be great...especially because if I don't need a connection to the battery, it will make the wiring a little bit simpler... Not doubting anyone or anything, I just really am so new to this. I want to make sure I understand 100%.

    Thanks, that would be a simpler solution but alas I am a little picky and tend to go with the difficult route :rofl: I would really just prefer the push switch since it would match the other switches.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2017
  17. Mar 1, 2017 at 5:18 PM
    #17
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Sometimes when I close my eyes, I can't see.

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    Likely the 4 is the starting load, the 2.7 is the run load. Always wire/fuse for starting load.
     
  18. Mar 1, 2017 at 6:49 PM
    #18
    windsor

    windsor Just a guy

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    The wire from the fuse panel to the switch then to relay only controls the relay, it does not provide power through the relay to the component. You can get the supply power for the component side of the relay from any source that is capable of handling the extra load. Im on the road right now. If no one else explains before friday, I'll explain more when I get back.
     
  19. Apr 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM
    #19
    dsalas23

    dsalas23 Well-Known Member

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    Did this project ever get finished? Looking to do mine too and wanted to see finished pics
     
  20. Apr 23, 2017 at 4:33 AM
    #20
    Teleost

    Teleost [OP] Member

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    It actually took me longer than anticipated to gather all my supplies and now I've been waiting for some good weather and free time to work on it. :/ hoping to work on it next week/weekend and will upload pics as soon as it's finished.
     

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