What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yeah, for $70 I'd just get a new one too.

Whoa! $70??? You gotta link for those?

Edit?: Nevermind I think I found em.

 

Summit racing....

But i ended up going to 4wd parts just to make sure i got the right bs. Turns out they are 3.5 bs. They gave me same price. Also got a 3 year no questions asked warranty for $8

 

So is anyone making a big three upgrade anymore now that it seems bamatoy isn't able to make them quickly anymore?

 

not that im aware in terms of a kit anyways. Always just buy the cable and stuff yourself.

What is holding him up?

 

Not sure, just seems like most of the recent customers weren't happy and 6 month wait times etc. I have some 6ga still I think I can use but that can't be used for everything. Figure if I was going to do the gm alternator I could do this at the same time. Was hoping I could just get the kit to make it easier on myself.

 

Meh. Just buy some 4ga wire and ends and make your own. Not that hard and way cheaper.

 

when it comes to ends do you normally get the crimps or solder type? I just bought a bluesea for my T4R and was about to order some stuff to get it going.

 

My advice it to use Solder Conections in an engine bay. Then heat shrink as well. Crimp ons will corrode quickly and are more likely to have issues as time goes on.

 

noted.

 

Getting excited for the delivery of my LT kit so I started removing some needless parts...

 

Taking on the huge cluster-f that is converting my manual windows/doors/locks to full power doors. Found a member on here with a wrecked '04 Limited and took all the door components from both doors, and cut the kick panel connectors pigtails to solder wires to. So far, it's involved me staring at the factory service manual and complete wiring schematics for hours upon hours trying to figure out and to label what each of the almost 50 wires spread over 4 connectors connect to, and do.

I'm bypassing the RS3000 module and integration module since I don't want to re-run a majority of the cab wiring harness so I'm going to be using a Viper keyless entry system to control the lock actuators. The integrated circuits (IC's) and microcontrollers present in the power window master controller and the mirror master switch should theoretically operate their respected assemblies with the presence of +- 12VDC.

Here's my progress:



Here's one of the connector pinout charts I'm working on:



The truck I got the wiring out of was a Double Cab and I have an Extended Cab so eventually I want to motorize the rear vent windows by grabbing the window linkage and motors out of say a Ford Windstar and adapting it to the truck.

 

Well, if you get a hydraulic crimper, the crimps will actually be plenty strong and due to the fact that you can synch it down properly it could be stronger then soldering a wire that big because it is hard to keep both the large connector and the wires in the cable hot enough for a great solder connection. You can end up with a cold solder joint pretty easily with large gauge wire.

So if you get the right crimper and then heat shrink. You'll have no issues. You'll need a torch to solder large gauge wire.

 

$20 Forney 57637 Lug Crimping Tool, Blue

https://www.amazon.com/Forney-57637...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EX5NDPS1WJDF7Y8M49FY

 

This^^^

A proper crimp actually cold welds (look it up, really cool metallurgy) and is less prone to cracking and internal resistance issues.

 

That invention is an abomination

 

i like you too

 

Aren't you a cable technician? I bet you can get your hand on a good hydro crimper

 

If a crimmped connection corrodes it is because it was poorly done. I hydraulic crimper elimiates all air access to the joint. Without oxygen, no corrosion.

He said hydrauilc

 

Well..this is exactly what the folks of TW needed. More misinformation hahaha

 

nah man

we dont get cool stuff

but i do have a quality hammer