Rigid Ignite Flush Mount Pods on Rear Bumper

I needed some extra lighting behind my truck at night so I did this mod.Followed @Siblue idea and added the Rigid Industries Ignite flush mount pods flood (part #20621) light output is amazing. Added a relay and a rear light switch hooked up to the bed light switch so I could choose wether or not they turn on with the bed light and this is what I endend up with. Very happy with it.

 

Nice work, I love a clean install

 

Looks awesome. The output with these little lights are pretty good too. Great work OP.

 

Looks great

 

Bad ass

 

Thanks!

 

Did you make the switch panel?

 

Look here

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ecause-the-thing-i-wanted-didnt-exist.415922/

I just bought one. Install is super simple and he has a few options for different switches.

 

Ive been looking at these for my motorcycle, but i dont have a side by side comparison. Ive got some cheap chinese 18w lights, in roughly the same location and i know how bright they are. Would you mind posting some night shots of the light output?

 

I'll take some pics tonight

 

Rigid lights have better thermal control than their cheap chinese counterparts. The Rigid/name brand lights are better sealed against the elements as well. With better thermal control you get more light output.

I've had cheap chinese LED lights and I can say they are great on budget, but you'll be replacing them in due time. I'm planning on spending the extra money on a Rigid so I get more light, a warranty, and support.

 

I added the oem Bed light kit- just going to install these and splice these in. Less than 1 amp draw per, should be plenty safe, and would turn on with rear bed light switch. Great find and ramo has a GB on rigid lights right now

 

I also have the oem bed light kit, I thought about it but the wire feeding bed lights is about a 20awg which has an amp rating of about 5A, assuming that the 3rd brake bed light has a 15w draw, and that the oem bed lights have another 15w draw, the rigid pods draw 12w each so it is 24w. Sum of all of that gets us to a total of +- 54w draw on that circuit= 4.5A. Plus add the splices resistance. Too close for comfort, that is why I added a relay just to be safe.
It will probably work just fine direct wired to the bed light circuit but when I leave this lights on for an hour or more I can rest assure nothing is melting around

 

I also have the LED bed lights added. I ran a separate circuit to power them using an inline 10amp fuse off the battery. Are you saying that adding these rigid floods would be cutting the 10amp circuit to close if I added them to this circuit? If so, how do you wire the relay and switches in and where did you mount the relay?

Thanks for helping. I'm sure I can grasp this with a little bump....

 

I remember the packaging stating less that 1 AMP draw for it's rated output of 1000 lumens. It's really efficient and the housing is cast aluminum if I remember.

Use a diagram like this to wire up.



I got a water proof (since I'm mounting under the truck bed) Hella relay with matching harness and some water resistant switches for my install, but I havn't installed it yet.

 

Wow, thanks GP! Thats easy for me to figure out. Much appreciated.

 

I forgot about your overcurrent protection. You can get away with much lower than a 10 AMP sized fuse since the draw is very low.

 

I couldnt find a blade fuse less than 10 amps so I went with that one.

 

With 10 amps you are more than good for them. Do you wire the bed lights to a switch directly from the battery? You can use that same circuit to add the rigid pods. Actually you can wire the pods to the actual bed light wires so you don't have to pull new wires, that is if you want to use the same switch for both the bed lights and the pods. if you want different switches then you have to run new wires to the back.
Following this diagram, the only difference I did is that the supply for the on/off switch comes from the 3rd brake bed light signal so what the switch does is control if the rigid pods turn on with the bed light or not. So for the pods to turn on the bed light must be on. I use the pods to light the back of the truck so it made sense for me to wire them to the bed light and also this means they will not stay on if I forget to turn them off. You can also wire the on/off switch to a switched source but you will have to have the ignition on to turn on the pods.
Hope this helps!

 

I have a waterproof switch in the bed of the truck for the LED's. Ala @mattgecko. I am now thinking about adding a light bar in the front and using the same circuit for that and the rear rigid lights and switching like the OP did here for both of those.